Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Promised Land | |||||
16 | ★★ Darklands
Find the vertical crack in the middle of the L Amigo that bends L near the ground. Start several metres to the R and climb L trending flakes to gain the crack. Up and L around the rooflet. A move or two up the corner then step L to gain a crack leading to the top. FA: Paul Badenoch & Adam Gower, 2014 | 32m | |||
13 | Get Off My Cloud
| 45m, 2 | |||
8 | Get Off My Cloud LHV
| 45m | |||
16 | El Diablo
| 55m | |||
19 | ★ Into the Heart of Darkness
| 52m | |||
19 | Cold and Bold
| 52m | |||
18 | A Symphony of Terror
| 40m | |||
17 | La Recoleta
| 52m | |||
13 | Cold Wind
| 32m | |||
16 | ★ Lost World
| 33m | |||
12 | To Who Knows Where
| 45m | |||
16 | The Call of the Wild
| 28m | |||
16 AID:A1 | Scimitar
| 40m | |||
17 | ★ Set the Controls For the Heart of the Sun
| 40m | |||
14 | Mea Culpa
FA: Paul Badenoch & Des Norman, 2001 | 50m | |||
Southern Crags Ultra Mega Mega Block | |||||
18 | Bold Arete
| 10m | |||
23 | ★ Madam Lash
| 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Bloodsport
| 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Ultra Mega Mega Man
FA: Rob Baker | 20m | |||
Southern Crags | |||||
16 | Moriarty's Revenge
| 28m | |||
15 | Buckaroo
| 20m | |||
12 | Cellulase
| 20m | |||
15 | Cellulase Right Variant
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Madam Butterfly
| 20m | |||
21 | The Scarlet Pimpernell
| 20m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Crack Up
A very aesthetic line, although threatened by the nearby bolts of The Scarlet Pimpernell. Start in short R facing corner, make a strenous move up to the major horizontal at the roof, move left and then up the beautiful crack. The original route finished up Ajax but there are now abseil chains above the first pitch (20m to ground.) | 38m, 2 | |||
19 | Ajax
| 57m | |||
8 | Lignase
| 60m | |||
20 | Live at the Wireless
| 45m | |||
18 | Calcutta
| 40m | |||
8 | Blue Finger
| 50m | |||
8 | Mutation
| 72m | |||
9 | Mutation RHF
FA: Paul Badenoch & Des Norman, 2001 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Layback and Think of Frank
FA: Steve Kelly; Rob Baker | ||||
9 | Hair
| 75m | |||
9 | Aardvark's Heap
| 60m | |||
Checkers Wall | |||||
8 | Alpha
| 90m | |||
21 | Omega
| 80m | |||
21 | Kak
| 80m | |||
19 | ★★ The Creature
| 30m | |||
19 | The Creature Variant Start
| 30m | |||
24 | ★★★ Criminal Streak
FA: Duncan graham & rob knott | 55m | |||
18 | ★ Better out than in
FA: Rob Baker | 25m | |||
16 | Free for All
| 100m | |||
21 | ★★ The Big Picture
| 50m | |||
22 | Feeding Frenzy
| 100m | |||
19 | ★★ Casablanca
| 100m | |||
21 | ★★ Mr Ordinary
If doing both pitches, don't belay at the first set of chains on pitch 1. Continue another 8m back up the easy slab to a trad belay at the base of the vertical wall. | 55m, 2, 10 | |||
23 | ★★★ Psycho Killer
| 50m | |||
19 | Dresden
| 30m | |||
21 | Spartan
| 95m | |||
22 | Sienna
| 120m | |||
18 | Sienna Variant Finish
| 65m | |||
28 | ★★★ Captain Attrition
| 30m | |||
28 | ★★ Animal Attrition
| 40m | |||
16 | Kiss My Aura, Dora
| 20m | |||
16 | Sound of One Thong Flapping
| 35m | |||
22 | Man
| 15m | |||
14 | Triple Treat
| 60m | |||
18 | ★ Hanging Fred Bonnet
| 45m | |||
15 | ★★★ Pagoda Variant
1
10
30m
2
13
15m
3
15
15m
4
12
43m
The most popular way to do this exciting route on a mega flake.
| 100m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Pagoda Original
The original route. Takes the vertical crack above the overhanging pagoda on the flake. | 100m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Pagoda Direct
Follow the major corner all the way passing a large roof en route. | 100m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Paper scissors rock
Two meters left of Tripple Hot and Skink. Overhung start, into line, veer right and up cracks and horisontals finish up blunt aret to rings. FA: Col Riddley; Col Ridley & Lee Bishop, 2006 | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ triple hot and skink
Left of transferease. Overhung start into jamb crack finish at rings. Just cool fun FA: Col Riddley; Col Ridley & Thai Te, 2006 | 20m | |||
20 | Shalom
| ||||
20 | Israeli, English, Irish & Danish Come to Moonarie
| ||||
23 | Private Currant
| 30m | |||
24 | Fruitcake
| 20m | |||
25 | Nuts and Raisins
1
23
20m
2
19
25m
3
25
20m
FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 65m | |||
24 | Captain Sultana
| 30m | |||
21 | ★ Crawling from the Wreckage
| 75m | |||
17 | ★ Oedipus
| 100m | |||
24 | Back into Dog
| 60m | |||
24 | ★★★ Acid Rain
| 55m | |||
13 | Towing Caravans
FA: Rob Baker & Sally Ely, 2006 | 25m | |||
14 | Touching Cloth
FA: Rob Baker & Pinks, 2006 | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Yak Track
| 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Medici
| 110m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Amazing Toothbrush
| 40m | |||
19 | ★★ Epicol
Cool Moves and Position high on Checkers wall. FA: Col Ridley; Col Ridley, Thai Te & Lee Bishop, 2003 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ yerba mate
FA: HB | ||||
20 | ★★ Machiavelli
| 120m | |||
15 | ★ Thor
1
15
30m
2
10
33m
3
12
35m
There are rap chains on top of the first pitch. 30m to the ground.
FA: Stuart Fishwick & N. Moriarty, 1969 | 98m, 3 | |||
17 | A Test for Echo
FA: Col Ridley & James Falconer | 28m | |||
16 | ★★ Thor Variant Start
| 28m | |||
18 | ★★ Freak Show
An exciting outing that tackles the shield of rock to the left of the second pitch of Pine crack. (1) 30m 16 climb Thor variant start to belay as for that route. (2) 25m 18. Start up Thor's second pitch for a few metres until its possible to place a few small cams before heading out right past a bolt to the rattly but solid blocks. Turn the arete and continue up the face past 4 more bolts and some natural gear. DBB (55m abseil possible from here) or continue 10 m to Thor ledge. FFA: Rob Baker, Kelly Thorpe & Kerstin Bruneder, 16 Apr 2022 | 55m, 2, 5 | |||
15 | ★★ Thor Variant Finish
| 35m | |||
22 | Marathon Runner
| 36m | |||
20 | Insert the Carbon Rods Whoop Whoop Whoop
| 120m | |||
24 | Sticky Side Up
| 30m | |||
22 | Family Holiday
| 83m | |||
24 | ★★ Bloodnut
FA: James Falconer & Rob Baker | 25m | |||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack
Originally done with a belay after only 10m, but is now usually done in two 30m pitches. The 1st belay (at 30m) is bolted. Above pitch 2 there are trees and cams to belay off, then walk 10m R on the ledge (best to stay on belay) to carefully access abseil chains (55m to the ground). | 65m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Pine Crack Direct
| ||||
24 | ★★ The Passenger
climb first pich as for pinecrack then move right to DBB on ledge. (2) 40m 7 bolts to rap chains FA: Rob Baker & seth debolt | 55m, 6 | |||
20 | Add Venture
| 95m | |||
22 | ★★ Desolation Angels
| 90m | |||
22 | Desolation Angels Variant Start
| 20m | |||
24 | ★★ I Can Jump Puddles
| 100m |