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Summary
Sandstone
Valley with numerous small and mid-sized sandstone towers and blocks.
Description
Brittle when wet
The village of Ostrov sits at a (car-)dead-end road right at the border to Germany. Passage to the popular Bielatal by foot or bike is a breeze, but the cliffs around the village already offer hundreds of climbs.
Grading:
The original JPK grading was a pure chaos where VIIa could be anything between VIIa and VIIIb. Therefore the main grading system on theCrag is now Saxon in line with the Geoquest topo-guidebook and based on the climbers' contributions. For routes where Saxon grade is unknown and only JPK is known, this is highlighted in the route description. Please add personal grade contributions in Saxon context so the grade database will get more complete.
Infrastructure:
The village offers climbers' bar/restaurant and 4* hotel restaurant, a lake for swimming and the occasional visit of ambitious high-line slackliners. Camp is usually crowded during main season.
Access issues
Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:
TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.
Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).
Approach
From German side by foot or bike, from south via Tisa. No public transport.
New official parking, paid (
50.80204, 14.05041)
Where to stay
There is a rustic campground and a 4-star-hotel in the village.
Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce
Well established
Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Gerald Krug
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9783981951585
A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock
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Nearby Icons
| III | ★★★ Stará cesta | ||
| VIIb | ★★★ Ledová promenáda | ||
| VIIc | ★★★ Větrný balet | ||
| VIIIa | ★★★ Kam kráčíš šílenče | ||
| VIIIb | ★★★ Oranžový expres - Varianta | ||
| VIIIc | ★★★ Jethro Tull |
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Hubcuk - Hubcuk_Ostriss-Knochenmann.jpg
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Ledový kámen - Eisstein_Windkante-Ostweg-Ostkante.jpg
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Ofélie - 20240504_160551.jpg
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Západní cesta III - 20230519_153829.jpg
Sun 18 Jun
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