Well bolted micro routes with super easy access. If you've done Bangor than maybe give this a go for a couple of hours. Rock is heavily featured - stay away after rain or you will break holds.
Janali is a great example of a 'local' cliff - extremely short, super easy access and every bit of worthwhile rock has been climbed over. You could climb every good route here in an hour if you are keen. The cliff has insanely short access (under a minute) and top-ropes are easy to setup along the top of the cliff. The crag gets afternoon sun. The cliff does seep a little in places and doesn't receive a lot of traffic - the worst routes here are some of the worst routes in Sydney.
There are suburban houses right above the left side of the cliff-line. Keep your noise down and park your car with some thought to the locals who live here.
Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 40m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'.
Paul Wheeler and Dave Barnes bolted the first routes here in the mid 90s. Two decades later Neil Monteith added three other routes in between baby birthing duties.
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Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
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