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Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Wade's World
West facing cliff-line that has remained obscure since it has never featured in any of the new print guidebooks. |
Wade's World |
The Prow
A 3 bolt belay, horn and trees allow abseil from rock platform to reach the following. |
21
The Crystal Escalator in the God Palace Department Store
8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab. |
20
★ Bitch! Dyke! FagHag! Whore!
Named after the internationally toured show of Penny Arcade. See Wikipedia |
21
★ Recognition
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
22
★★ 23 Envelope
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
★ Feral Teabags
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
Who is Righteous, What is Bold?
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Scramble 15m down gully directly below camping cave to top of this section of cliff. The route direc
Scramble 15m down gully directly below camping cave to top of this section of cliff. The route directly below the gully is Sleep Walking. 6m left (looking out) is another nice cave - with an abseil chain which is above A Walk Across the Rooftops. It is 35m from this chain to the ground and you can pull your rope easily from below. There are various bolts and burnt out trees to belay from at the top of most routes - you might need to get a bit creative to create a solid belay. |
21
From the Flagstones
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
Edgy and Dull Direct Start
Start as for FtF. Right at BR to small cam on right. Join EaD on right of spiky bush (medium cam). |
18
Edgy and Dull
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
22
Frou Frou Foxes in Midsummer Fires
Start at burnt grasstrees 2m left of TSaH. Slab (cam, BR, wire) to ledge. 2 FHs up flake to jug (BR). Up left to break (#4 rock and medium cam) & scoop. Two BR, sling, FH and cams through headwall to cvams and BB above 'beak'. |
23
★★ Soul Companion
Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described. |
22
★★ The Son and Heir
Another almost a sport route up the excellent wall. This was the only route given 3 stars at Wades World in the original '90s SRC guidebook. Climb the dark slab (wires, bolt, cams) to ledge. Up and slight right (3 bolts). Up and slight left (2 bolts). Two more bolts gains the small ledge and bolt belay. |
20
★★★ Sleepwalking
The main line of the wall with a spectacular line of orange scoops in the upper half. Unfortunately some of the holds can be a bit dirty from the runoff from above - but this is easily brushed off on lead. Start up the major right facing corner (good medium cams) and mantle onto ledge (optional belay on double bolts). Blast up the bolt protected orange wall above to belay on ledge off burnt out trees (!). It would be totally possible to lead the top section as a sport route if you rapped in to the ledge above the corner. |
22
★★ Pulling Punches
Good clean fun and mostly only grade 20. This is almost a sport route - only a couple of bits of trad required in the easy sections. Climb the slab squeezed between the corner and the flake (cams and bolt) to small ledge. Blast up the water washed scoops above past many bolts. A cam or so protects the last easy jugs to the belay ledge (use burnt trees!). |
19
★★ A Walk Across the Rooftops
Remarkable wall climbing at the grade. Easily up flake crack (wires) to small ledge. Big cam and a wire in the break protects the short wall to reach the first bolt. Finish up mega orange juggy face past another 5 bolts. A sling protects the last couple of metres to top. Belay off two bolts on the edge of the ledge or the rap chain above the left end of cave. Rebolted 2022. |
14
Who Punched Humphrey
Starts just right of AWATR. Slab past BR. Slight right to traverse line. 15m right (?!) to line of monster jugs. Up to cave (cams & bolt belay). Wires and cams. |
Rap to next 3 routes. 3.5m right (facing out) of biggest tree halfway along norrh half of upper tier
Rap to next 3 routes. 3.5m right (facing out) of biggest tree halfway along norrh half of upper tier on north terrace. A odd nose diving grasstree is 1m north of cairn at top of route. Wires and cams in crack under cairn. Rap 26m to stance (small cams & wires) above steep double corner, 6m above the ground. Otherwise start from the ground . Batman off BR and, jugs (grade 18) to stance. |
17
Searching the Shore
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
★ Swamp of Trivia
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
14
★ Girl With the Most Cake
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
21
Tupelo
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
16
She Once Had Me
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
The Corners
Short access scramble (grade 5?) is marked at top by big tree at cliff edge below green "soak". |
19
Taking the Veil
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
The Tears
First area reached on the walk in, just north of where the scrub clears. |
20 M1
★ Let Me Down, Gently
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
Angel's Spit
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
Peripheral Visionary
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Ikara Head
Mega old school trad area that should see more traffic than it does. Has a few of the best moderate and hard cracks in the Mountains. |
Ikara Head |
24
★★ The Mooing
Big orange corner opposite the detached block. Marked as a sport route but surely it needs some trad?
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24
★★ The Squealing
Start 30m right of TM under the obvious soaring square arete.
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21
★ Splattergram
Start 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.
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26
Tuxedo Mask
Start: Right of S. Up the prow. |
Grey Face L of PV
There's a few newish-looking bolts up the middle of the wall between Tuxedo Mask and Power Vacuum with DRB at the top. |
17
Power Vacuum
"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish." The first route climbed at Ikara in 1974 by discoverers, K. Bell and I. Thomas. Was previously named Casserole Corner by them in memory of the prevailing cuisine of the time. Start 20m R of TM at the clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.
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18
★★ Sponsored by the State
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20
★ Club Mac
Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings. |
20
Dystopia
On the same wall as Club Mac. Starts in vague scoop to the left of Octonauts, 3m R of PV. Lots of cams.
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18
★ Octonauts
Start 4 m right of PV. Up groove to chimney and offwidth squeeze chimney. Belay on slings on ledge. |
20
★ Unknown
This seems likely to be a repeat of Jezebel p1 because that’s the only big corner matching this info. "Big orange corner 30m right again. Up corner to slings." |
22
★★★ Jezebel
The aid (originally a few bolts) at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start 33m right of PV at obvious right trending wide yellow crack/corner system. Marked with J.
Reportedly you can rap from here to ground with 50m rope, however as of oct 2021, tree did not appear suitable for abseil.
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22
★★★ Aladinsane
Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack. Marked with AS. Start 7m right of J at short crack in block and finish at the rap chains shared with Jezebel (in great nick as at 2021). Easy for the grade. 65m rope to lower off to the ground; 60m should certainly get you down to the pedestal. |
22
★ Fantasia
...they must have been fighting for it! Start 7m right of A. 11 old-ish carrots up the good looking face to the new chains of Jezebel. Would be easily TRed off these chains if you don't like the look of the old carrots. |
18
★★ Reincarnation
A continuous, soaring, well-protected crack with minimal crack-climbing required. Generally excellent rock, with brief suspect rock near top. Takes a wide mixture of gear, and consider saving a #4 cam and a #3/#2 cam for that final traverse). Start most of the way up the ramp/slot (about 5m left of Blast Off ). Up obvious crack, trending left. 2m below the shale ledge, traverse left for about 10m along a clean break, then step down to the Jezebel chains. Rap 30m from here to large block. 70m rope is ample to lower off if the leader would rather belay on the ground. |
20
My girlfriend's a bumbly, but she's alright
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
20
Bumblies ahoy
Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording. Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below Blast Off. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge. |
22
★★★ Blast Off
An amazing line and excellent climbing. Starts on top of large detached pillar, 25m up and R of A, which is accessed from a slot at the back which starts 10m R of A.
Rap down from chains under small overhang just below the summit in two pitches (~50m, 20m) or walk off. |
25
★★★ Snakes & Ladders
Starts from the top of a block, 10m right of BO. It's a great shame p2 is bracketed by the rubbish of p1&3, as it is one of the finest pieces of crack climbing you will find in the Mountains, blasting up a beautiful orange wall on mostly great rock in a stunning position.
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19
★★★ Telstar
Whoopy! Start 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.
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16
★ The Titan
Clean and varied corner, 30 meters right of Telstar. Start at small finger crack then up slabby corner to rings. Anchor replaced 2022. Any information about name and FFA history please update. |
20
★★★ Caladan
"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982. The painted initial is mistakenly a ‘K’, but it is definitely Caladan with a C, a reference to Frank Herbert's Dune series. Start at major corner below crack 33m right of T. Anchors replaced 2022. A 60m rope will just reach, tie a knot in the end! |
23
Confidence Trick
Start on right side of arete 4m right of C. 10 very rusty old carrots. Up to ledge shared with L&W, then right and up wall and flakes to the Caladan rap anchor. |
16
★ Lace & Whisky
The nice clean corner crack 3m R of CT. Direct lower-offs added 2022 (rings), which means you no longer have to link it into Caladan or rap off dodgy pin and carrot. |
24
★★★ Serene Machine
Arete 30m right of CT. Carrots & FHs to TBB. |
17 R
Waltzing Matilda
"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch." Right facing corner about 30m R of C. Scramble 10m R up from SM to base of corner.
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24
The Gift
20m R of WM.
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18
Water Closet
Start 90m right of C. Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - small corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take care with pro after the crack fizzles. |
22
Pin Ups
A varied climb with a bit of everything. Start 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.
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20
Lunatic Soup
To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap. Start 150m right of PU. Track below steep crack right of small black chimney. |
22
Elegance and Ego's (Big orange corner)
180m R of Pin Ups. Just past big arete. This had been climbed to a trad lower off, but now goes free to the top of the left crack with a lower off. Beautiful orange corner 19ish to a bolt at the blocks. Delicately up not pulling anything off and left to a seam, small blue alien used here to get into it..... very balance and committing to get into it and up on to the ledge. Shake it out and then enjoy some grunty laybacking to a hard crack finish.... A 70m rope will get you to the ground... I haven't been able to find any details on the history of this climb.... |
19 M0
Freerider
Start 20m right of big orange corner. Sounds like it needs to be freed.
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20
Carpa Intoxicata
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Thor Head
The main wall is outstanding orange rock, which pops into the shade after 1pm. This is an 80m high cliff, accessed from the top via abseil. The lower 20m is a bit scrappy, so many routes only start from a ledge part way up. |
Thor Head |
26
★★★ Flexor and the Albatross
One really long and sustained wall pitch and one short exit pitch. Rock quality isn't immaculate but it's a gorgeous line of least resistance with no escape for the forearms. Approach: walk in as for Thor Head main wall (down to Asgard Swamp and up the ridge until the views of the Grose reveal themselves). The track flattens out on this ridge and about 50m before Thor Head main wall the track drops slightly to a rocky flat area which is a good lookout. Exit tourist track on the right side just before this and walk back along edge of cliffline past small sandy cave for 30m to find fixed rope tied around small trees (GPS -33.5512, 150.2991 - refer to topo). Rap down this rope for 5m to ledge - walk across this (clipped into fixed rope) for 10m to rap anchors in small cave. Best to FIX a 60m+ rope to this anchor and bomb straight down to ledge and start of route. This bottom ledge is big and comfy and safe to walk around on unroped.
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Thor crack
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
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Lounge Lizard
Great little trad outing with a stellar middle pitch. First pitch blocky crack to corner, leading to a belay ledge. There are 3 variant cracks for the middle pitch. The stellar right hand, finer crack is superb. Then there is a wide book corner to the top that will take a five cam. |
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★★ Baileys
The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless. Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)
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24
★★★ I Hurt it on the Grapevine
The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag. |
25
★★ Horse Meat Disco
Another goodly long face route. Fix 70m rope off large tree 5m south of Raving Bull anchors and rap down huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete of the wall.
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25
★★★ Raving Bull
Excellent red wall. Top pitch makes a good warmup for the other routes. Fix a 60m+ rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.
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24
★★ Thorever
Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north on foot ledge for 15 meters to large flake at end of ledge. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended.
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Baldur Head
Due south of Odins Head - Baldur was the Son of Odin. |
Baldur Head |
16
American Alpine Heros
Short corner, only done as a warm up for 3/4 crack. Climb gingerly through shale - consider placing cam with a long stick to protect move, up nice but short corner to tree belay. |
20
★★ 3/4 Crack
Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA. |
Odin Head
Trad climbing area in Mt Victoria. Most routes require 2 ropes to get off, or a single 70 or 80m rope. |
Odin Head |
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★★★ Odin's Love Glove
Obvious short corner crack to short roof crack and beyond. Maybe 5.12, or 7a, or even 6a/E4 ... try it and see .. Boulder start leads to short fist crack section in roof. Turn lip and continue up crack to belay half way up wall. Will probably be moved to top. |
19
★★ El Dorado
The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of thin roof crack, Odin's Love Glove, behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay. Also good doing route as single pitch. |
20
★★★ True dreams
Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top. |
21
★★ Dude where's my cam?
Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top. |
22
★ El Guapo
Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack. |
22
★★★ Sharp Shooter
Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22 |
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★★ Master and the apprentice
The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to sprouting tree belay (or natural belay approx 10m back off micro-small cams and a #3 BD Camelot.) Rap off anchor around tree to base. |
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Errant Pupil
Shares start with 'Master and the Apprentice'.
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15
Sated
P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top. |
17
Hunger Games
Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay |
16
Tower of song
Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks |
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★ Arachnarete
Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch. |
19
★★★ Joe Blake
Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of Arachnarete.
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16
Gully Basher
Dirty, and hideous in places.
Stay roped up for traverse off to the right. |
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★ Avarice
Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree. |
20
★★ Position vacant
A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3 |
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★★ A bit on the side/Morelia’s Pilot
Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde |
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High’s and Lowes
Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground. |
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Munch
P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13 |
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Mountain Goats
Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right. |
19
The Mountain Goats Direct
Start 5m right of Munch. Up short rotten crack corner to sloping section. Hand crack in alcove to fist crack. When crack ends go straight up past a bolt to top and tree anchor. |