This climb and its neighbour are of a past time: relatively easy climbing either side of a bouldery crux with fixed protection. These days one wouldn't bother, both because of the small number of hard moves, and long unprotected leadout either side. To be as precise as my laser could be, 6.7m to the ground with one possible average cam between, then about 12m up an easyarete to the GU topout.
Sorry not to onsight as I think I did 41 years ago, but eventually got the move after several rests. Technically 20 I'd say.
This one has one nut before the remarkably solid looking and sounding pin I wouldn't trust at 5m, then a series of bouldery moves I finally did after several rests with one point of aid, followed by a section of tenuous slab. The original ascent went directly up 12m of juggy wall with no protection but I diverted left and repeated the second part of UAC. Because I was no longer 19. And scared.
Fairly small hand jams, even for myself and I’m a tiny human. A bit a of a reach for me, I’m 4’10. Would of enjoyed it more if it wasn’t the last climb of the day so everything seemed harder.
warm up. actually was on here way longer than expected after get a cam stuck right where i wanted to put my hand. pretty rusty after 20 months no trad.
Came with the intention of quietly meditating beneath past ascents and found a dude halfway up The Janicepts, so moved on to let him do his stuff in private.
Climbs much better than it looks - honestly loved it, would give it a third star if the middle didn't disintegrate into a pile of chockstones. Hexes and slings useful.
Second trad lead for me. Really fun climb. A couple of places where it is easier to put a sling around the rocks instead of finding placement for cams or nuts.
