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So Long Gravity

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Description

A small cave surrounded by boulders and cracks. Routes described L to R facing the obvious cave.

Many more unclimbed sandstone boulder problems lay deeper west into the bushlands along the contours of this knoll.

Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach

Traveling up the main track until you have hit the T-junction next to the massive white tree then head left along the same road that takes you to the Underground. 50m before the Super Hard to Miss cave is a steep slab on the same side (right hand side looking to the Underground). Walk up the slab and take a left at the T-juction.

Alternatly keep walking on the road until you see the Super Hard to Miss cave (overgrown as of 2017). Head 100m directly uphill past the Super Hard to Miss cave and you will find another cave surrounded by a small oasis of boulders.

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

History

History timeline chart

Climbed in August 2013 by Dan G, Sam B, Alex T and Liz C as an extension to developing the super hard to miss cave. Later efforts were added that year by UQMC on a bouldering trip led by Nick Tierney and Phil Beattie.

A great battle went on between Elliot Leech and Matt Cochrane for the first ascent of Trebuchet and thus Elliot sent it one attempt before Matt. Hence we have to live with the name 'The Buff Breasted Button Quail', Elliot's favourite quail and also the rarest of quails in Australia.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start on jugs and Trent left.

Set: Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

FFA: 25 Sep 2014

FA: Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

Sit start and trend slightly left. The crux involves moving off two small edges.

Set: Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

Sit start in small pockets and move left and up on fingery holds. Continue up progressively better holds to the top.

Set: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2019

FA: David Jefferson, 28 May 2020

Sit start on small LH pocket, and good RH. Boulder on the right is out. Climb the arete. Make like a Pandanus and up up up!

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2019

On a nice boulder left of the cave there is a great line of crimps on the left side. It makes you traverse a bit and then top out.

FFA: nick tierney, 2013

Stand start on the far left lower crack crimps. Traverse the crimps and horizontal cracks around the right arete for an easy slab top.

FA: Aidan..., 2 Oct 2019

FA: 2 Oct 2019

Start laying down at the entrance to the cave. Take the 2 shit low holds and a beasty toe hook. Load your self up like a spring and then release. Hold the cut loose and don't dab! Finish as for 'got the blinkers on'

FFA: Elliot Leech, 2013

Start inside the cave way back and traverse left. Be greeted by some funkiness at the lip and then link into 'got the blinkers on'

FFA: Dan Gordon, Aug 2014

From the right arete arc to the left onto jugs and then top out. Cool traverse across the lip of the cave.

FFA: Dan Gordon, 2013

The really cool smeary blank slab on the right side of the cave.

FFA: Dan gordon, 2013

This problem will help you train for moving a fridge. This is the boulder to the right of PE. Sit start with a hand on either side of the arete and bust a few burly slaps and heel hooks up the bloc. Classic movement

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2019

A nice clean crack climb, its about an inch wide.

Set: Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

FFA: Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

FA: Tyler Day, 25 Sep 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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