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Carmichael Park

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 21
  • Aka: Park Area

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Description

There are a couple of worthwhile problems here, as well as loads of easy V0/V1s here that haven't been listed. Beware heavy erosion and overgrown top outs.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

The Main Drag's boulder problems are on the bottom level of Carmichael Park, on your right as you stand facing the entrance to the stairs up to the top level. The Bike Ramp boulder is, shockingly, on the zig-zag bike ramp to the left.

History

History timeline chart

This area is in the former Saunders sandstone quarries, revealed by the many drill holes and giant bolts holding the poorer quality rock together.

Routes

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Grade Route

On the bottom level at the east end of the park. Cross through a gravel area with some benches to reach it.

Start with both hands on the ledge/rail. Move diagonally left to reach the top there. Much harder if you are short.

This bit of rock is really solid and free from choss. It also has a 20 degree overhang.

Start with both hands on the ledge/rail. Move straight up. The next hold is 1.4 m away. Slopey undercling is in. V5 if tall and V6+ if you have to dyno.

This bit of rock is really solid and free from choss. It also has a 20 degree overhang.

Start crouched with hands either side of the bulge. Move up to the sloper then using the crack, stretch for the top. Traverse to the left and top out for V3. V4 or more if you top out without traversing.

Start as for Nervous, traverse right on the blank wall. 3 m past the arête, move up with a big reach to the chipped square that once held a timber beam. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped-out rectangle and downclimb.

Start at the hole low on the wall filled with charcoal. Stand start with foot in this hole and finish the climb as for Dirty. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped square and downclimb.

Start with both hands on the arête which juts out, and find some delicate footholds. Juggy top of the arête is not in for the starting holds, but you can use it after establishing. Throw out left, then up through the overhanging arête and the chipped-out rectangle. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped square and downclimb.

Richard Trethewy no-top out beta.

FA: Tom New, Richard Trethewey & Eileen Cao, 15 Jul 2023

Start on the obvious good holds. Straight up. Top out on the narrow ledge if you're feeling brave.

These are located on the side of the bike ramp.

Sit start with both hands on the small slopey arête. Move up and to the right, transferring to the other arête, then top out for full tick.

Hard to get back down from.

Same as for Side Track, but instead of going for the top, traverse 1 m right on the face and top out there.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Wed 26 Apr
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