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驼背山 Humpback Mountain All Sport climbing 3 routes in crag

Grade context: US
Photos: 2
Ascents: 18
Aka: 7.1

YDS

5.10d 5.11b 5.11d

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Description

The main feature of Humpback mtn is the huge nose very visible from most parts of the Egg. On approach to the area, it is on the backside of the mtn next to the road...not immediately noticeable. Tuo Bei Shan is home to one of Yangshuo's premier multipitch climbs, Grandfathered In.

Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

Tuo Bei Shan is the right turn 20m before the turn for the egg. Go through the dirt lot with the building on the left, at the bottom of the crag are a bunch of giant bamboo stands, go through the middle of the great bamboo to the wall...and then up up up!!!

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Routes

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From the top of Grandfathered In P3, climb up a short P4 to a small ledge. Then continue straight up and through the overhanging nose with an anchor at the very tip of the prow above you. The route then continues up to join with Grandfathered In at the P5/P6 belay. This pitch is the reason why Grandfathered IN was developed. Overhung, slab, and weird beta... good route.

Set: Andrew Hedesh & matt Krakowski, 2018

FA: Tj, 2018

From the top of Grandfathered In P4, traverse left out along the edge of the nose to finish at the belay near the tip. (same belay as for Old School). continue straight up to join grandfathered In.

Set: Flo Vogel, 2018

1 5.7 20m

2 5.7 20m

3 5.8 18m

4 5.10d 30m

5 5.10d 30m

6 5.8 20m

VERY IMPORTANT! Descent : Do not abseil the top two pitches of this route ! While facing the anchor and with your back toward the climbing: throw your rope at the 4:00 O'clock angle and abseil 22m to a hanging belay nestled on some white rock. continue straight downt he wall for 2 more abseils arriving at the anchor above P4.

FA: ATao & Andrew Hedesh, 2013