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Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain
Spirit Mountain is a beautiful cliff with sectors facing in all directions. Single pitch and routes up to 3 pitches in excellent quality. |
The Lounge
The first sector when you come around the corner and walk right from the camp, lots of steep and good stuff. |
The Lounge |
6b
★★ Baby Foot
Short line starting on tufas at the very left up the small hill. All titanium bolts. |
6b+
★★ Schmoopy Power
Starts just left of 'Babies in the Sky'. All TI bolts. |
6c+
★★ Babies in the Sky
This route originally finished after 15m at the anchor of 'Mainlander' which would be a good option if the upper section is wet after rain. Now it continues up on black rock to it's own anchor at 28m. Possibly you need about 15 quickdraws, but I need to check. |
8a/a+
★★ Mainlander
Shares the anchor with 'Babies in the Sky'. All titanium bolts. |
7b
★★ Rex Kwan-Do
All titanium bolts. Two TI bolts with SS rings for anchor. |
7a+
★★★ Superstition
All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
8a
★★★ Slap and Tickle
Second pitch of 'Superstition'. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
7b+
★★★ Man
Great rock, technical crux up high. Share start with Mouse. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
7b
★★★ Mouse
Same start as 'Man', but traverses right to a big hole just before the 8th clip. From the hole continue to left anchors. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
7b
★★★ Kaeng Raeng
Shares the start with 'Pill Box', then left after the first sling. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
7c
★★★ Middle Path
Extension of 'Kaeng Raeng'. All TI bolts. 70m rope required. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
6b+/c
★★ Pill Box
Shares the start with 'Kaeng Raeng', then right after the first sling. Finishes on the anchor slightly to the left. All TI bolts. |
8a
★★★ Red Planet
Second pitch of 'Pill Box'. 5 titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
8b+
★★★ Red Planet Extension
Open Project, maybe 8b+? please try. 80m is rope fine, tie knot in end. |
7b
★★★ Scorpion
Climb 'Pill Box' to the last bolt, then go right and up. Two bolts before the anchor, take the left lines into the huecos. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
8a
Scorpion (Direct)
Same climb as 'Scorpion', just don't use the manufactured four finger pocket. |
8b+/c
★★★ Doctor Doom
OPEN PROJECT, 8B+/8c??? Same start Scorpion, continue on 2nd pitch, Scorpion extension 🦂 70m rope, tie a knot in the end. |
7a+
Ice-9
Climb 'Scorpion', but take the right of the two bolt lines on the 3rd last clip. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts. |
7c+
Ice-9 (Direct)
Same climb as 'Ice-9', just don't use manufactured four finger pocket. |
7c+
Chasing Windmills
To the right of Pillbox. |
The Mezzanine
The main sector in Chong Phli with routes for everyone. Tufas, technical routes and routes with up to 3 pitches. |
The Mezzanine |
6b
★★ Exfoliation
The leftmost line, starting from the boulder. Tricky technical line. All titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
6c
★★★ Exposure
Extension of 'Exfoliation'. 4 titanium bolts, Go left just before the anchor. |
6c+
★ Exposure (Direct)
Right-hand variation at the top section of 'Exposure'. Shares the same anchor. Go straight up before the last bolt of 'Exposure'. Harder for short reaches. 4 titanium bolts extension. |
8b
★★★ Snow Leopard
Spectacular moves following thin orange tufa fin up head wall! Mega-classic! Start up Exfoliation/Exposure, head left before anchor, (alternate start from Scorpion/ICE 9). 70m rope okay, Tie a knot. F.A. KDennis on the last day of his trip and coinciding with his birthday 🎈🥳🎉 |
7c+
★★★ I Am Ironman
Extension above "Exposure". |
6b+/c
★★ Hobbit Hop
Starts on the boulder, just right of 'Exfoliation'. All TI bolts. |
7b
★★★ Hobbit Jump
Extension of 'Hobbit Hop'. All TI bolts. |
7b+
★★★ Free Blast
Climb Hobbit Jump, after anchor, head left across face to crack flack. 80 metre rope gets you back to the ground. |
7b+
★★★ Alien
Extension of 'Hobbit Hop' and 'Hobbit Jump', all the way up the thin black tufa. 8 titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
5a
★★ Simon Sends
Short easy slab just right of the boulder. All TI bolts. |
6a+
★★ Sticky Rice
1st climb left of Chutzpah. Start up slab, clip bolt to the right of the anchor "Simon Sends", then straight up orange slopes to anchor. All TI bolts. |
6a+
★★ Chutzpah
Straight up the grey tufa streak. All TI bolts. |
7b
★★ Trippin'
4 titanium bolts, 5 slings. |
6c+
★★★ Hunting Shrooms
Shares the start with 'Grace', then left after the 4th bolt. All TI bolts. Share anchor with Trippin'. |
7a+
★★ Scarface
Extension of either 'Trippin' or 'Hunting Shrooms'. All TI bolts. |
8a
★★★ Kingpin
Lefthand extension of Scarface. All TI bolts. Shares the anchor with Right Hand Man. |
8a+
★★★ Sumo King
The extension to Kingpin. This climb goes to the top. All Titanium Bolts |
7c+
Right Hand Man
Righthand extension of Scarface. All TI bolts. Shares the the anchor with Kingpin. |
7a
★★★ Grace
Shares the start with 'Hunting Shrooms', then right after the 4th bolt. All TI bolts. Share anchor with Renegades of Funk. |
7b+
★★ Baby White Tiger
Climb start Scarface, at the 5th bolt traverse right and up the slab. All titanium Bolts. |
8a+
★★★ White Tiger (Direct)
Start up Grace, move left before anchor up overhang. All titanium bolts. |
8b
★★★ White Lion
Same start as "Grace". After anchor head up overhang. All titanium bolts. |
7c
★★ Renegades of Funk
Start right-side platform. Up slab, then right on bulge. Share anchor with Grace. All TI bolts. |
7c+/8a
★★★ Rage Against The Machine
Next route right of Renegades of Funk. Start off platform. All Ti bolts. |
The Ego Free Zone
To the right of Mezzanine, before the stairs going to Machette wall. Lots of long routes in amazing tufas, just enjoy. |
The Ego Free Zone |
7b+
★★★ Red Herring
Start on Piranha, at ledge take left hand line to finish. Shares anchor with Piranha. |
7a
★★ Piranha
Shares the first three clips with 'Red Herring'. Then right and back to the same anchor. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Share anchor with Buzzsaw (Lefthand Variation). |
8a
★★★ Predator
Extension to Piranha. Beautiful dynamic face climbing leads to a tricky transition onto an amazing European-style tufa with slopes, crimps, and a long sustained crux sequence with no rest. Absolute classic !! |
7a
★★ Hidden Gem
Red fixed draws (left of Buzzsaw). Really lovely climb with beautiful movement! Continue in a straight line on to slab above, links into Buzzsaw, finish on green anchor. |
6b
★★ Buzzsaw
Same start as Seesaw, up the black slab, take LEFT hand line to finish. Shares anchors with Seesaw. |
6c
★★ Seesaw
Same start as Buzzsaw, then climb RIGHT hand line, up thin technical slab to finish. Shares anchor with Buzzsaw. |
7c
★★ Tetris
Extension above Buzzsaw/Seesaw. Super rad! Crimpy fun! |
6a+
★★ Spirit Mountain
Super super super classic, start on brown ladder, finish on the pedestal ledge. |
6b+
★★ Foot Prints
Right of ladder, overhanging start, then up slab, finish on pedestal ledge. |
6a
★★ Finding Nemo
First route to the right of Foot Prints. Starts up blocky face/arete for 5 bolts, then re-join Foot Prints up slab to pedestal and anchor finish. |
6b+
★★ Hook, Line, Sinker
Starts right of the boulder. Unique climbing with a technical ending on an arete. 10 titanium bolts, 3 slings. |
7c
★★★ Slab Royal
Start up 'Hook Line Sinker' arete, pull the lip to anchor and head left up orange slab! Can climb with 70m rope, 1 pitch. |
6a
★★ Kan Bet Tok Pla
Extension, Hook, Line, Sinker - 2nd pitch. Absolutely SUPERB climbing on orange stalactites, takes you almost to the top of the wall! Can climb as one pitch from ground, (80 metre rope), or can climb as two pitches (60 metre rope). Ti bolts and slings. Ti anchor ring 22/4/23 |
6c+
★ Rampage
Start up Hook Line and Sinker arete, one clip before anchor, traverse right through big roof, mantel outside lip/hole to finish - anchor on right side arete. |
7b
★★ Burleigh But Sensitive
Start on Finding Nemo, continue up arete (Hook Line and Sinker), at 3rd bolt on arete traverse right on vertical white face, and into juggy roof - Shares anchor with Rampage. Has fixed draws. |
8b
★★★ KGB
Go and try !! Open Project !! Absolute classic moves in the crux !! |
6b+
★★ Deflowered
7 titanium bolts, 7 slings. |
6b+
★★ Momentum
Second line on the huge tufa system. Anchor right next to 'Deflowered'. Maybe stick-clip the first sling. 8 titanium bolts, 8 slings. |
6b+
★★ McLovin
3 titanium bolts, 10 slings. |
6a+
★★ EFZ
Shares the first half with 'Family Affair', then straight up to the left lower anchor. 3 bolts, 10 slings. TI Anchor ring (2022) |
6b+
★★★ Family Affair (1st pitch)
Shares the start with 'EFZ', then right and up to the higher anchor. 6 titanium bolts, 8 slings. |
6b+
★★★ Family Affair (2nd pitch)
Family Affair extension, 1 sling, 4 bolts, + anchor. 80 metre rope can lower back to ground, put a knot on the end to be safe. |
6a
★★★ Family Affair (3rd pitch)
Can climb all in one 55 metre pitch from ground. Lower down to Family Affair anchor, and re-tie your rope, to reach ground. Make sure to put a knot in the end of your rope, to avoid being lowered off the end. Alternatively, can climb multi pitch style, belay at top of 2nd pitch. |
6a
★ Zac Attack
Shares anchors with 'Mad Skills'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 slings. |
6b
★ Mad Skills
Shares anchors with 'Zac Attack'. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. |
7b
★★ Mantally III
7 titanium bolts, 4 slings. |
7a/a+
Mantally Ill P1
Easier variation to the intermediate anchor. Nowadays there isn't a real anchor point to pass the rope through to back to the ground, just a two bolts. Shares the finish with '8ish P1'. |
7b+
★★★ 8ish
All TI bolts. |
7a/a+
8ish P1
Easier variation to the intermediate anchor. Nowadays there isn't a real anchor point to pass the rope through to back to the ground, just a two bolts. Shares the finish with 'Mantally Ill P1'. |
6c
★★ Carbunkle
Shares the start with 'Round the Bend', then left. 6 titanium bolts, 2 slings. |
6a+
★★ Round the Bend
Shares the start with Carbunkle, then right. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings. |
5c
★ Bell Curve
Follows a normal distribution, up and right to the anchor. |
Machete Wall
Walk to the far right of the main face (The Ego Free Zone), and continue walking up the steps and along the trail for another minute. |
Machete Wall |
6a+
★ Cave Racer
The start is just before you walk up the stepping stones to the main crag, half way up the small hill on top of the boulder. Shares the start with "Dean the Machine" then cuts left about 3 bolts up |
6b+
★★ Dean the Machine
The start is just before you walk up the stepping stones to the main crag, half way up the small hill on top of the boulder. Shares start with "Cave Racer" |
6b+
★★ The General
Shares the start with Alpha Male. Goes a bit left of the second clip then follows the left side of the arete. |
7c
★★★ Alpha Male
At the top of the stepping stones. behind a small tree. It climbs up the right side of the arete. Shares start with The General but heads right after second clip. |
7b
★ Eagle Claw
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6c+
★★ Knob Job
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6c
★★ Tufa Test
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6a
★★ Luna Cruise
2 bolts, 11 slings |
6a+
★★ Send Train
4 bolts, 4 slings, then continues to the share the anchor of Luna Cruise. |
6b
★★ Fixe
Right of Send train. Boulder style start. |
6a
★★ Morano
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6b
★★ French Free
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
5c
★★ Pipeline
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6a+
★ Wildling
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
7b+
★★★ Yaba Youth
Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe. |
6c+
★★★ Doctor Zeus
7 titanium bolts. |
7b
★ French Blow
Extension of Doctor Zeus, positive crimps, into jug rails, with epic heal hooks. Super good moves! |
6a+
★★ Athena
5 titanium bolts. |
5c
★★ Aphrodite
6 titanium bolts. |