Ascents of Erg Direct as Tick

Tr laps of the bottom x5

felt almost easy on second

A staunch warm-up. Bomber wires to protect ya off the ground, but it'd be hard to place 'em on lead.

I broke my back climbing this. I have fallen off it twice, and the first time my gear held fine. Second time out, I had a C4 .3 and a .4 rip on me.

I stood up fine, but it was a pretty lucky fall. I landed pretty much flat on my back, and on a flat section of rock. I've fractured my L1 vertebrae. I'm pretty sure if I hadn't landed quite so well I'd have ended up a lot worse off than I am now.

Fair warning to you all. Cams rip on this route. Since I've had my fall, a bunch of people have told me that I'm not the first to get hurt here or rip gear. The cams look bomber. Nice parallel crack. It seems like it might be a bit hard/slippery but I haven't been back up to check it out yet. Maybe nuts are a better bet if you decide to get on it, but again I don't know if there are good nut placements.

Anyway I just wanted to put this out there as there doesn't seem to be any info on this page about this climb ripping gear.

I'm happy to answer questions about it if anyone wants to know more.

Wasn't so bad. Laybacked through the direct start until you hit where the grade 20 version comes into the main crack. Placing gear wouldn't be too hard from the layback, either, I reckon.

with Adam Demmert

with Cass

Ross Nick Ben

Nice and smooth!!!! the way to do ERG