Ascents of Exile

First pitch only...

Pitch 1 only for warm up. Pretty fun

Clean repeat P1, Onsight the other 3 pitches. P1 has cleaned up really well from when I last climbed it, and was actually enjoyable today (though the McDougal to the arete is still a bit lame); I linked P1 into P2 for a mega pitch featuring a funky, pumpy and tricky traverse, with some seriously hard moves before you resume upwards... But holy crap this has some of the worst bolt positions I've ever seen! P3 is quite sustained and enjoyable. P4 was an enjoyable thin-ish finale. Worthwhile.

Astoundingly average

Bailing to the arete felt a bit contrived, otherwise a nice warmup

Just the first pitch, not the classic trovato but not bad. Traverse looks funk

Can't wait to do the rest of the route ...

Me: P1 and 4, Monty P2 and 3. The 4th pitch has the best orange rock in the Blueys.

Pretty good, though some dubious rock (near the start, mostly) spoils it a bit. Should have been an onsight, but I didn't realise you're supposed to use the arete between the last two bolts, and I tried to go straight up the face... Bloody hard for a 22! Gave it another lap for the tick. Sustained, though not too cruxy.

Got whip of the day on the second pitch, where I was seconding the traverse - just unclipped a draw when my foot slipped and ended up about 4 m below the next draw - prussiking my way back up

second to clean traverse. didn't do many of the moves on the traverse because cleaning was hard and i'd left tiblocs on the ground. some nice rock and moves, but doesn't quite make up for the detour to the arete, or the bolt positions on p2.

Seconded 3 pitches with a few rests along the way. Aid climbed to clean pitch 2 traverse to avoid dangling below the seam. Slight overhanging wall increases the intensity.

quite the ascent in cyclonic winds. turns out wind makes climbing scary! rope management was the crux. to be fair I didnt do the WHOLE climb, my rope only reached down to the 2nd pitch so i had to start there. still a gem and a fun day out, if not engaging...