Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat 25th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Wave | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Espantasuegra
| 26m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 24th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Front Side Zapatista Wall | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★ Rock Hard Weekend
1
5.9
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.9
Linked with P5.
5
5.9
| 140m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
| Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Upper Virgin Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 Easy |
★★ Gracias Mi Amor
| 34m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Chicaboom Nights
| 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 ~5.8 |
★★ Mr Patacca
| 29m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a Easy |
★★ Mr Jesus
| 29m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10b |
★★ Mr Gilberto
| 34m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10b Hard |
★★ Chilifluris Way
| 30m, 11 | ||||
| Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Mini Super | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ Super Maxi Express Guey
| 24m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Chicharrones
| 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Pimpanada
| 27m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 20th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Little Red Riding Hood
| 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Not the best climbing in Los Lobos canyon, but some of the better bolting.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Big Bad Wolf
| 26m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easy-going until the last bit, then the climbing hits grade.
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| 5.7 |
★ El Cachorro
| 26m, 7 | Average | |||
| 5.9 |
★ Sheep's Clothing
| Average | ||||
| Sat 18th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Central Scrutinizer | ||||||
| 5.8 Hard |
★★ Upside Down Cracker
| 35m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Harder than most 5.8s in the area, especially the newer ones.
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| Sat 18th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 ~5.9 |
★★ Déjà vu
| 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 R Easy |
★★ Suculenta
| 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
There was no over-use of bolts on this one.
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| Fri 17th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ El Tigre
| 46m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Good climbing, but not nearly the 5.9 not Madden suggests it might be. Reasonably bolted by EPC standards.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Jungle Mountaineering
| 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 17th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Kelso's Way
| 37m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10c |
★★ Motarola
| 26m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Current guide says 10d, but 10c seem fair.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Caguama Queen
| 28m | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 15th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a Hard |
★★ Howlin' Wolf
| 34m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
This is solid climbing at the 5.9 grade, more sustained steep than usual for this grade at EPC, but very good climbing. And, it will feel harder if you're not comfortable with a couple hand or foot jams.
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| 5.9 |
★★ The Blacksmith
1
5.9
2
5.7
| 12 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★ The Anvil
| 23m, 8 | Average | |||
| Tue 14th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a Easy |
★★ 31 Foot Smurf
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Might be 5.9+, might be easy 5.10a.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Spin Doctor
| 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Skairdy Kat
| 29m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Getting polished
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| 5.8 Hard |
★★ The Cat's Meow
| 24m, 11 | Average | |||
|
Getting polished.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Eterna Luz
| 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Super fun jug-hauling the whole way up.
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| Mon 13th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Wonder Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 ~5.9 |
★★ Evil Shenanigans P1
1
5.9
| 73m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Ramsey's Shenanigans
2
5.8
3
5.7
| 75m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ One Dead Teardrop
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Mexican Squeeze Job
| 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Red Headed Step Child
| 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10b |
★★ The Great Baldini
| 29m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Monkey Booty
| 27m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 12th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Central Scrutinizer | ||||||
| 5.10b ~5.10a |
★ Mr P. Mosh
| 26m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★ Sabrosa
| 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★ Blood Meridian
| 26m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★ Slip of the Tongue
| 26m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 12th Feb 2023 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 ~5.9 |
★★ CDC & J
| 34m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Timon y Pumba P1
1
5.9
| 50m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Las Lienas
| 34m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★★ La Chicky Baby
| 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 22nd Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★★ Yankee Clipper
1
5.8
1500ft
2
5.8
3
5.10b
| 460m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Lead (linked) 1+2 with a cold, followed 3.
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| Fri 21st Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Kelso's Way
| 37m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
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TR to first anchor. See just how cold it was... best bit was the handjams since I didn't need to put my fingertips on the cold rock.
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| Thu 20th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
| 300m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Rain came in when we were on pitch 6/7, so we retreated.
Lead 1,2,4,5. Followed 6 with some aid (ballistic traverses). |
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| Thu 20th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ Sheep's Clothing
| Average | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ El Cachorro
| 26m, 7 | Average | |||
|
A tough 5.7 -- the 5.7 beta is not obvious, it is there, butnot obvious.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Wolf of the Deserts
| 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Nice to get the finish clean this time.
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| 5.9 |
★★ The Blacksmith
| 12 | ★ Good | |||
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Follow P1, lead P2.
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| Wed 19th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Upper Virgin Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Chicaboom Nights
| 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 5.8 |
★★ Gracias Mi Amor
| 34m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Sons of Thunder
| 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
2nd bolt missing hangar -- put in a couple Tricams instead.
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| Wed 19th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Lower Virgin Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★★ Selam
| 39m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Bad beta choice for clipping a bolt near the end.
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| Wed 19th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ La Flakita
| 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Putas de Fuego
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ 31 Foot Smurf
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Tue 18th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Las Estrellas Club Mex Wall | ||||||
| 5.11a |
★★ Super Nova
1
5.11a
790ft
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.6
5
5.9
6
5.6
7
5.9
8
5.8
| 240m | ||||
|
Did Gusadra Negro instead of first pitch.
Lead P3, P5, P8. |
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| 5.10d |
★★ Gusada Negra Linkup Supernova
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fell 1.5m from ancohr. Doh - so close.
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| Mon 17th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ La Chicky Baby
| 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
First 3 bolts missing hangars made the start a bit more exciting -- though gear helped.
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| 5.8 5.8 R |
★★ Suculenta
| 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Missing first couple bolts for extra excitement.
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| 5.9 5.8 |
★★ CDC & J
| 34m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 17th Feb 2020 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Wonder Wall | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ Half Way to Booty
| 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Red Headed Step Child
| 27m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Jan 2019 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Blind Faith (Blind Faith P1)
1
5.10a
38m
| 38m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Long, longer than 35m, about 38m. This makes lowering off a wrong choice.
Lots of good climbing on this pitch, and 10a is a fair rating. |
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| 5.9 |
★ Nasty Screwdriver
| 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Jan 2019 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ La Foresta
| 29m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Solid in its grade.
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| 5.8 |
★ I Believe I Can Fly
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
|
Decided to go straight up the bolt line -- no wandering to find the easy choices. Still no harder than 5.8 this way.
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| 5.10a |
★★ La Facil Facil
| 29m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easy down low, then thin technical crimping for the 2nd half. Felt like a real 10a.
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| Fri 4th Jan 2019 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★★ Yankee Clipper
1
5.8
1500ft
2
5.8
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.9
6
5.10b
7
5.9
8
5.9
| 460m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Did the first 8 pitches with Helen & Kate. I lead pitches 3-8; 3-4 linked; 5, 6-7 linked, 8.
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| Thu 3rd Jan 2019 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Abuelito Dime Tu
| 26m | ★ Good | |||
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Solid 5.8 for EPC.
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| 5.10a |
★ Cresent Moon
| 27m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Soft -- maybe one 5.10a move, not sustained, but fun movement.
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| 5.9 5.10a to 5.10b |
★★ Kelso's Way
| 37m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Pancho Villa Rides Again (Pancho Villa Rides Again P1)
1
100ft
| 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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One fall, 2nd crux -- should have made it, too.
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| 5.9 |
★★ La Vaca (La Vaca P1)
1
5.9
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Just P1 -- which is a good 5.9. Sustained pockets and crimps.
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| Tue 1st Jan 2019 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Spires North Side | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ Crack Test Dummies
| 75m | ★ Good | |||
|
Followed P1 & P2 - lead the short pitch to the top.
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| Mon 31st Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Mini Super | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ El Volvo Scorcho
| 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★ Exsqueeze Me
| 24m, 6 | Average | |||
| 5.8 |
★ Hey Buddy, You Gonna Eat That?
| 26m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 31st Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Surf Board | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Doof Crack
| 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Run-out as fuck.
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| Mon 31st Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Putas de Fuego
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ La Flakita
| 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
While the nominal grade of this climb appears to be 10c, I'm not sure it is even the 10a I'm claiming for this lead -- I think it might be closer to 5.9+.
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| Sun 30th Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Wave | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Going to Maui
| 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Fun stemming -- odd clips and run-out, but generally easy climbing.
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| 5.6 |
★ No Seas Burro
| 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.6 |
★ Pansy Cap
| 10m, 6 | Average | |||
| 5.7 |
★ Let Me Introduce You (Gospel Bird)
| 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 5.7 |
★ Let Me Introduce You
| 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
With cold hands, this was harder than it should have been.
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| 5.8 |
★ Espantasuegra
| 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Got the 5.8 section clean. Did the 5.10b extension, one fall.
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| Fri 28th Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Skairdy Kat
| 29m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Spin Doctor
| 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ 31 Foot Smurf
| 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Eterna Luz
| 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
MP says 5.9+, Rakkup guide says 5.10a. But I couldn't find a move harder than 5.8 on it, though it was sustained enough that my calves ached a bit at the end.
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| 5.9 |
★ A Gringo Ate My Baby
| 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Run-out in places.
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| 5.8 |
★★ The Cat's Meow
| 24m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
| Thu 27th Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Las Estrellas Estrellas North Wall | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ La Pantera Rosa
| 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Took a few falls getting it on TR -- but worked out all the moves.
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| 5.10a |
★ Jesus Amarillo
| 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Took a fall, and a rest -- but did all the moves. I'm sure I could red point it, now. But, who knows on next visit. Hard 10a -- one of the guide books gives it 10b.
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| Thu 27th Dec 2018 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Las Estrellas South Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Wright of Passage (Wright of Passage P1)
1
5.8
| Average | ||||
|
Just P1 - Helen bailed on the lead, so I lead it, then she did it on TR.
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