Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.
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5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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5.8 ~5.8 | ★ Ovipositor to Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.
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5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Time to Rock It | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
Reconciliation | 25m, 8 | |||||
About 5.6, won't be the best route, but should be adequate.
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(slab/arete route under development) | 25m | |||||
Will probably end up being 5.4-5.5, but hopefully with good position.
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5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 | ★★ Tits 'n' Ass | 32m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Shake Your Groove Thing | 28m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Pink Floyd Wall | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ (un)Comfortably Numb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Stolen Land | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tits 'n' Ass | 32m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Pink Floyd Wall | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ (un)Comfortably Numb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | ||||
With the pack on, as usual.
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5.8 | ★ Shake Your Groove Thing | 28m, 13 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Tits 'n' Ass | 32m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Climb out with pack.
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
Very careful lead, as still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.5 | Derecho | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Very careful lead as still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
With recovery, happy I could get this clean. |
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Fri 1st Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Gully Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★★ Apéritif | 13m | ||||
TR in sandals, with a slightly harder finish.
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Know When to Hold'em | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard for a 5.7. Though, that might have been the humidity.
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5.10a | ★★ Slab o' Doom 2.0 | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
One take, found the foot-hold, continued clean.
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5.9 | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Bunch of falls on this while I tried to work out the beta at the crux.
The hardest move on this is probably about as hard as the hardest move on Slab-o-doom, but SLab-o-doom has a lot more of those moves in a row. Still, I think this is a solid 5.9+. Just wish The Crag would let me set that as a grade. |
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5.10b | ★★ Metamorphic Delicacy | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Definitely harder than Slab-o-Doom; so 10b seems fair.
And some of the holds are really sharp. Actually, that's Lower Cliff -- generally the sharpest rock at Lac Sam. |
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | ||||
It was starting to rain.
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Microburst | 10m, 4 | ||||
Hang-dog TR. But I found a new hold at the crux which might make it 5.10b rather than 5.10c.
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5.5 | Derecho | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Short, but fine.
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5.8 |
★★ Mixed Precipitation (Mixed Precipitation P1)
1
5.8
25m
| 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 | ★ Anabatic Acrobatics | 13m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | (Bart's project) | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Opening is hard, upper part is harder. Maybe 10c? I cheated, doing one transfer with aid of the rope.
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5.10c | ★★ Diffluence ((hard project)) | 13m, 7 | ||||
Tried it on TR, top was too hard.
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5.9 | ★★ Southern Oscillation | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 opening, which could use a bolt, to 5.7/5.8 climbing at the later hard bit.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Rope got stuck on the pull -- there's a rope-eating crack right at the top I'm going to have to fix.
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Good | |||
Su's first multi-pitch trad lead. It took a while, but overall went well.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ||||
Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Fractus | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Mixed Precipitation (Mixed Precipitation P1)
1
5.8
25m
| 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Microburst | 10m, 4 | ||||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★ Cumulonimbus | 15m, 8 | ||||
Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
I hadn't successfully lead this in ages -- nice to know my climbing is mostly back.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Somebody said, "why'd you bolt a trad route" for this. So, I decided to lead it on gear. It isn't a good trad route at the grade -- too run out. I was fine, but I don't mind easy run-out trad.
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Red Fire ((Project)) | 11m, 4 | ||||
TR attempt. Some thin stuff... maybe 10 to 10+ at the crux move.
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5.8 |
★★ Mixed Precipitation (Mixed Precipitation P1)
1
5.8
25m
| 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Lemon Technique | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried some variations to make it harder...not so successfully.
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Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing Gully Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Night Cap | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good |