Showing all 85 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 12th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
warm-up #repeat
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand | ||||||
7+ 7 | ★★ Zwiespalt - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.
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6- | ★ Sonnenkönig - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.
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7+ | ★★ Ansbacher Weg - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP
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Fri 9th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Wilde 13 - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Kaminpfeiler - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
#lastrouteoftheday tired
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6- | ★ This is the end - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
warm-up.
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#repeat 2nd warm-up.
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Thu 8th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ R9 - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m | ★ Good | |||
#repeat warm-up.
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
#repeat warm-up
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, rather bouldery crux.
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7+ | ★★ Panische Zeiten - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP
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Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Lindenstein | ||||||
4 | ★ Ostkante - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.
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5+ | ★ Holger Danske - with Katrin Bauer | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.
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6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Boxdorfer Weg - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
5 | ★ Cafe Caspary - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
7+ | ★★ Kaputtbohrer - with Katrin Bauer | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.
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7- | ★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!
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5 | ★★ Frankenplaisir - with Katrin Bauer | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Vertikale (R4) - with Katrin Bauer | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5+ 4/4+ | ★ R5 - with Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Pfeilerweg. (R7) - with Katrin Bauer | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6 6- | ★ Streck Dich! (R 11) - with Katrin Bauer | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | ||||||
8- | ★★ Alte und Jungnasen - with Katrin Bauer | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP
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3 | ★ Steile Rinne | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5- 4+ | ★ Adams Rippe | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5- | ★★ Spirale | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- 6+ | ★★ Schweizer Käse | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.
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Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Weiße Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hier geblieben! - with KP, Biggi | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.
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8 | ★★★ Bilderbuch - with KP, Biggi | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Weiße Wand - with KP | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
7 | ★★ Für Dich - with Christoph Rauch | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!
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6+ | ★★ Ratte - with Christoph Rauch | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great climb! Felt 6a/+.
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5+ | ★★ Kleiner Bär - with Christoph Rauch | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.
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5- | ★★ Immos delight - with Christoph Rauch | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5b?
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Sat 15th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Großenoher Tal Großenoher Wand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Mandel Gedenkweg - with Leon K. | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice technical moves and surprisingly a good warm-up.
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Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Waldrausch - with Leon K. | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
#repeat Still pumpy!
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7- | ★★ Moralapostel - with Jule, niklask | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun moves on big holds.
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Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Fer-May Wand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Bremse auch für Schwaben - with Leon K., Liam, Jonas | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Got a little confused and almost fell.
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Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher SASN Wand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Alter Weg - with Leon K. | 22m | ★ Good | |||
One tricky part in the traverse – especially if you have long legs I guess.
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Hartelstein | ||||||
3 | ★★★ Südwand - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good easy climbing, nice view. A fun thing to do in a group of three.
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Richard-Wagner-Fels | ||||||
6- | ★ Adolf Göttner Gedenkweg - with Christoph Rauch | 40m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Christoph Rauch showing me a different style of climbing. The route itself is a lot better than it looks from below! I can't imagine leading in this style yet but following was fun. Nice little adventure.
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Zehnerstein | ||||||
7- | ★★ Lineal - with Christoph Rauch | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Polished 5b into good 6a+/b. Nice view.
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Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Peitsche - with Christoph Rauch, Simone | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!
Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move" Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy! |
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8- | ★★ Sysiphos - with Christoph Rauch, Simone | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.
Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself. |
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6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand - with Christoph Rauch, Simone | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.
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Fri 2nd Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Soranger Wand | ||||||
8- | ★ A-Hörnchen - with Simone | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep, mostly on big holds. Hard anchor clip. I fell trying to dyno to the last pocket which is the worst hold I had to use in the route. RP 2nd go clipping the anchor from an undercling, doing the move to the pocket statically and then "matching" the top pocket competition-style to have a legitimate ascent (8m route, 2m wingspan) #sportRP
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7 | ★ Sauwetter - with Simone | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Jugs!
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7- | ★★ Zeitspiel - with Simone | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A techy layback crack crux. Very nice.
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6+ | ★ Aus die Maus - with Simone | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 1st Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Links | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Mein Wort zum Sonntag - with Simone, Christoph Rauch | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7 | ★ Für Göre - with Simone, Christoph Rauch | 17m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
8- 7+/8- | ★★ Flottes Lottchen - with Simone, Christoph Rauch | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 28th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Reichelsmühler Wand | ||||||
6 | ★ Green Dragon | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Probably a nice little route but I had nothing left in the tank so that it felt pretty unpleasant. Last climb for the trip.
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6+ | ★★ Schönes Fragezeichen (Unnamed 2) | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy on big polished holds. We met Sean Villanueva at the crag. #fanboy
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Frost-Fertinger-Weg | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Uncomfortable first moves, nice above. A bit polished but not too bad.
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Fer-May Wand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Sad Lisa | 10m | Average | |||
Polished and covered in chalk when I did this. Nice pockets but nothing special imo.
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Waldrausch - with Marco R. | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of my Frankenjura favorites so far! Harder than its right neighbor but more beautiful. Typical Frankenjura bolting style - huge runout s but well placed bolts. Nice and relaxed slab to the bulge, then committing moves to the upper part which offers beautiful, logical and pumpy climbing. I used a 60cm draw below the bulge - you probably don't want to fall into any draw clipped to that bolt. Comitting move over the bulge, pumpy above. Airy bolting as well. Felt nowhere near 6b and a lot harder than other routes of the same grade in Franken.
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7- | ★★ Moni und kein Ende - with Marco R. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Searching for holds above the overhang got pretty exhausting because there's a lot to choose from.
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Noristurm | ||||||
6 | ★★ Direkte Talseite | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good climbing onto an exposed tower. Being on top is an experience on it's own.
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Fri 26th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Hartensteiner Wand | ||||||
4 | Kurzer Riss | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | ★ Secret life | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6- | ★★ Aprilscherz | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Consistent difficulty and nice moves.
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6 | ★★ Ziech oder Fliech | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route for the grade. With a small roof step.
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7 | ★★ Donnerwetter - with Marco R., Michael R., Stefan G. | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful climbing to a somewhat awkward crux at the final bulge.
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7 | ★★ Surprise - with Marco R., Michael R., Stefan G. | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Consistent climbing to the crux just below the anchor. Fun to watch others on their onsight attempt. One of the best routes I know in Franken!
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Thu 25th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Intensivstation Hohes Eck | ||||||
5 | 36 Grad - with Michael R. | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
Some loose rock.
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6 | ★ Die Leiden des W. | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
I wouldn't call the upper part climbing. The lower two thirds are good.
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6 | ★ Krabbelstunde | 16m | Average | |||
Slightly chossy corner. Appropriate name - Probably a small people climb.
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Thu 25th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Amerikanische Botschaft | ||||||
7- | ★ Ronald McDonald - with Marco R., Michael R. | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Some moves felt a bit awkward.
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7 | ★★ Bushtrommel - with Michael R., Marco R. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux for me was keeping calm. Every move very doable.
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6+ | ★ First Lady | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Consistent pocket endurance climbing. Good rock quality.
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Thu 25th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Intensivstation Hohes Eck | ||||||
7 | Überall und nirgendwo - with Michael R., Marco R. | 16m | Average | |||
Delicate climbing to a boulder crux at mid height. Easy above.
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Mon 1st May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
6 | ★ Merklriss rechter Ausstieg (Merklriss Direkt) - with Michael Wk | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A slightly overhanging corner with big holds. A bit of scrambling onto a nice slab.
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7- | ★★ Via Donatella - with Stef fel | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I didn't find the "sloper crux" everyone was talking about. So for me the crux were the first moves.
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7 | ★★★ Götterbogen - with Michael Wk | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Shirt off for the first time in Franken! Had no beta and found a good intuitive solution.
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Sun 30th Apr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
5 | ★ Softmover | 14m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
A polished and uninspiring climb.
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Sun 30th Apr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht | ||||||
7- | ★ Schöner Riss - with Michael Wk, Stef fel | 12m | ★ Good | |||
6+ in the Schwertner Guide. Felt hard for that grade and was quite polished - just like other routes in this sector.
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Sun 30th Apr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger - with Michael Wk | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb except for 5 metres of chossy looking rock. Great view and probably the longest singlepitch I did so far.
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7- | ★★ Harter Hund - with Michael Wk | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just great climbing. Onsighting it as the first route of the day felt so good!
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Sat 29th Apr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
4 | ★ Zwischenfall | 15m | ★ Good | |||
My first climb of this kind! Polished but still fun.
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6 | ★ Buchenleiter | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 28th Apr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ R9 | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Gear to first bolt by Chris.
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie - with Michael Wk, Chris | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
My first route in Frankenjura!
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7- | ★★ Verlobungsweg - with Michael Wk, Chris N. | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flash in the dark with a headlamp after arriving late for our very first time in Franken! Got into a better flow than on my next day repeat.
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Showing all 85 ascents.