Showing all 71 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Orange Crush | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little climb, especially the start.
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
10 11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ||||
Awesome exposure for the grade
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Little Thor | 12m | ||||
Short but pumpy
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Wed 25th Apr 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I have never seen anyone’s ashes before and I find myself wondering about the minutiae. What colour are they? How big will the container be? I am standing outside my house; it is a little after five o’clock in the morning on ANZAC day. The Southern Cross is visible in the clear sky, which bodes well for our trip.
Although Simon and I haven’t climbed for a couple of years the road to Mt Arapiles is still very familiar. We notice small changes- the public toilets in Beaufort have been moved, there’s some funny graffiti on a sign just outside Horsham. We talk a bit, but not much, about some of Simon’s climbing trips with Morgan. The only time I ever met Morgan was on a weeklong climbing trip to Mt Buffalo. He’d bought a big new tent and christened it the Taj Mahal. Simon and the others who knew him from school in Sydney teasingly called him ‘Big M’ (little organ), a schoolyard gibe that they all enjoyed. On our first day there Morgan, Simon and I climbed Maharajah on the Cathedral, topping out in the afternoon sunshine as below us a storm raced down the Ovens and Buckland valleys. Later in the week we got up early and tackled Where Angels Fear to Tread, a stunning 300 metre crack climb up the southern wall of the gorge. Morgan’s climbing, like his humour, was effortless. I would hear news of him from time to time over the years that followed- the writing, the surfing, the awards, but we didn’t ever meet again. We get out of the car at the Pines campsite at the base of Mt Arapiles just before nine o’clock and start to rack up. We decide on a Joe Simpson-style ascent, keeping the weight down to maximise ease and speed. The ashes are in a little film canister in Simon’s pocket. Amazingly, given its popularity, we are the first group heading up the Bard today. A guy on his own wanders up and asks if we mind him watching. He’s visiting because someone he knew died climbing here last year. Morgan died in a plane crash in Indonesia. Simon uses his knee while leading the first pitch, an uncharacteristic and unsettling display of nerves and poor style. I’m OK seconding but already feeling edgy about the lead. If Bard is the jewel in the crown for easy climbs at Mt Arapiles, the second pitch is a black diamond- a short traverse across a cramped but beautifully exposed ledge. I make my way out onto the ledge and get a couple of pieces of gear in. My mouth is dry and I’m breathing hard as I squeeze past the under-cling, but still a part of my mind is calm and confident. Physically I know that this is well within my range. I lean out and reach up to find the holds above the ledge and complete the pitch smoothly. Simon comes across and joins me at the belay. We’re both still a bit freaked but have settled into our routine now. He runs the next two pitches together, giving me time to sit back, take in the view and reflect on why we’re here. The beautiful duality of climbing is that you spend a lot of your time alone yet always responsible for, and trusting your life to, someone else. A bond is formed. I join Simon on the ledge at the top of the Bard. The panorama before us takes in Mitre Lake, a vast curve of the Wimmera and the distant Grampians. This is the place we have chosen to say farewell. Morgan’s ashes are a greyish brown dust. The wind carries them away. He was a friend and climbing partner. We were lucky to know him. We will miss him. Vale Morgan Mellish. |
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Sun 13th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 9 R | ★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva) | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lovely climbing all the way. Went in two pitches (double ropes) which was a blessing 'cos we started late in the afternoon and it was getting dark when we topped out.
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Sun 13th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | ||||||
8 9 | ★★★ Siren | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Araps Icon Tour. First two pitches go together with double ropes and about 5m of simul climbing. Simon lead pitches 4&5 in the rain which made the laybacky moves fun! [12 Jun 04] Backed off after first two pitches as rain and darkness caught us (had to rap off a hex 'cos we couldn't find the anchors mentioned in the guide??) .
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Sat 12th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
4 5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Araps Icon Tour. Nice climbing all the way, we were overtaken by a pack of 6 soloists halfway up the pinnacle!
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Sat 12th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
6 | ★★ Exodus | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Araps Icon Tour. Raced up to stay ahead of a bank of clouds that were rolling in from Mitre. Excellent gear whenever you wanted to place a bit.
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Sat 10th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx | 170m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Avoid the thrutchy chimney of the 1st pitch (Shepherd guide) by staying on the arete on the left (as per the Mentz/Tempest guide)1996: Nice long climb. Great for the grade
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Fri 9th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell | 130m | ★ Good | |||
Somehow Simon got to lead all the nice pitches, but I got payback later.
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Fri 9th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Kestrel | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Simon. Rap chains at the top of the 1st pitch were a pleaseant surprise (they weren't there last time I did this climb - 1996)
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1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Cassandra Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Cassandra | 40m, 5 | Average | |||
Maybe a bit soft for the grade? (Could be all the bolts, unusual at Araps)
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1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely
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1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ||||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ||||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I'd stayed away from seconding this, to get the joy of an onsight. It is a lovely climb. Just the right amount of exposure coming through the crux rooflet.
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1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 | The Martyr | 11m | ||||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall | 12m | ★ Good | |||
1997 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Jason | 30m | ★ Good | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Flavius Maximus | 14m | Don't Bother | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lead the 1st and 4th pitches on my first trip to Araps, have been up several times since.
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1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 15 R | ★ Fiddle | 30m | ||||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
10 11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★ Good | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ||||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
15 14 | ★ Nero | 13m | ★ Good | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
With Hamish
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1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awkward crux right at the top of the last pitch
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1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto | 50m | ||||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | ||||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
14 14 R | Manx | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | Average | |||
One move wonder
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1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
15 | ★ Puppy Love | 35m | ||||
1996 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | ★★ English Ethics | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | ★ Good | |||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
10 11 | ★★ Pedro | 36m | ||||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
9 | ★ Craddock Crack | 13m | ||||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | ||||||
15 13 | ★ Trooper Two | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
9 | ★ Holdup Line | 20m | Average | |||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation | 50m | ||||
1995 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
12 11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
SCary overhanging corner crack
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
18 | ★★ Morgul Khan | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good variety
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Philanthropist | 30m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Deacon Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Prelate | 14m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Rested at the crux when I seconded it, but got it clean and easy when I lead it about a year later.
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
14 | ★ Minimus | 12m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
12 12 R | ★ The Protege | 50m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome location and exposure
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Dante's Inferno | 70m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
19 18 R | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I seconded XI with a rest on about my second ever trip to Araps. Lead it a couple of years later- very much a spur of the moment thing at the end of a long day's climbing. It was one of those beautiful leads where it all comes togerther- mind and body moving as one almost beyond conscious thought. Absolute magic!
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
11 | ★★ The Archbishop | 48m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
10 | ★ Camelot | 13m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ Swinging | 20m, 2 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo | 35m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Coyote | 40m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
11 | ★★ The Bishop | 50m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★ Hornpipe | 33m | ||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Deacon Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Deacons Dilemma | 16m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★ Spider | 25m |
Showing all 71 ascents.