Ascents in Blue Mountains by Graham Jones

Supposed to be Ben's first trad lead but he chickened out so leading this again. It doesn't come better than this for gear.

Led P1 only. Almost clean but rested (aka faffed about) too long just before the 4th bolt crux and had to rest on the rope to cure the elvis leg.

Led P1 clean; Khoi led P2 resting before the rooflet.

Turned a bit epic: storms, darkness, strange finger spasms/cramp. Hauled on everything and anything to get out before dark.

with Khoi Bui

Hard start standing magically on absolutely nothing.

Led all pitches except the traverse.

Unchallenging climbing with challenging pro - the opposite of fun.

Jug fest but looked like the pro would be vexing to we top roped as a speed climb as we were up there from FC anyway.

Came back to lead but happy with clean this time.

Freezing, windy and after 3 months off. Easy climb except for the crux move on the small sharp side crimp. Couldn't make it as a static move but it turned out to be an easy lunge.

Great climb; poor pro - glad I wasn't leading this.

Repeat of this fun one (and was still thinking it was Country Special). Now I have to onsight Country Special for real....

Lead p1, mike led p2.

Absolutely fantastic. Loads of fun and some nice really exposed bits that will get your blood pumping. There is a fair amount on choss and rock that will break right off in your hand, mostly around the route periphery and at pitch ends, so be careful and don't put total faith in anything if you're not safely protected. With Mike Corkin. I led p1 and p3, Mike p2. All clean.

Nice view and bomber pro.

Thin indeed. Two rests working this on top rope.

Nicer than it looks.

Topped to clean

Repeat with Albi

Juggy fun but I was too pumped already. This was supposed to be my redpoint of this easy 18. Dog day afternoon it would seem.

Tougher than 16, mostly on the sustain. Crux got the better of me, mostly on confusion and indecision, and I had to have a little rest. Should have just ploughed though. Either left on the side pull jug or right on the delicate little stuff work - just have to keep moving.

Classic for the aspect and exposure. Linked p1+2 and p3+4. Nathan led p1+2; I led the rest. Don't recommend linking 3+4 as there is too much rope drag over the traverse and then all the way up to the belay before the 17. It's been rebolted and now the only gear needed for the variant is a #3 camalot and a med-lge wire.

A few awkward bits. Stuffed up the top mantle right by the bolts.

Either I hate this route or it hates me. Got spanked even harder than last time by the evil start. 33 degrees with kamikaze mossies and the extra 5 kgs from Christmas probably didn't help much though. Regardless, this isn't 17; more like 19.

While we waited for everyone to get off Landmines. It beat sitting around getting eaten by mossies - just about.

x2

Made more of a meal of it than necessary. More brain needed than brawn.

Lovely. Over too soon.

Alzheimer's onsight. Easier if you stay out of the cave. Really fun.

With the arête; without the crack.

Really fun juggy warm up.

Just to clean it from Albi's first lead. Did it with the direct, totally-not-14, start though just for extra fun.

Only did P1 and it was crap. First hold broke off in my hand that set the scene for the pitch. Scrubby and chossy (and also not 13), P2 looks more interesting but it was getting late and the troops restless...

Tricky jamming at the start, then straightforward after that. Lovely outlook and just one of those piddo climbs that feels so nice and satisfying when you are looking down from the top.

Tough crimps straight up between carrots 1 and 2. Easier out right.

In the rain. Led p2. Need 2 ropes for p3, which was the whole idea. Never mind. Next I'll read the guidebook before we pack.

Tricky crux start unless you are really tall. Plain sailing from there, though sustained.

15/16 most all the way up, then 18 crux on the last move. Went left for the crux and Ali went right. Staightahead is a no go I think. Thought this was Country Special (as many do) but I checked with John Smoothy and Country Special is to the right and still on carrots.

Run out as hell but easy ground (15) all the way up. Then, like its buddy to the left, another tough crux that makes the grade. Fun but try 'Country Special' first and if you make it, skip this for something else.

Top roping again coz we had no hangers. Couldn't find the jug after the mono so popped off and had to hang for a minute. Shame, otherwise pretty straightforward.