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Ascents in Aegean Islands as various tick types by Ben Jenga

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Showing all 79 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 19th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Odyssey
7b Daphne (Dafni) Sport 25m Classic
Nice to clean up the dog before I left, still a little pumped at the top but feeling a lot stronger from a couple of weeks climbing.

 
7b 7a+ Lucky Luca (Lucky Luka) Sport 15m Very Good
Yep pretty soft, one hard tufa pinch and it all jugs after that. Good fun.

 
7b Amphora Sport 20m Very Good
The first of the 7b trifecta this arvo. Polished moves most of the way to warm a pump in my arms, hardest moves saved for the top. Just as well it was off a decent rest that I could could come back to.

 
7a Dionysos Sport 22m Classic
Didn't feel that hard but super fun on jugs the whole way. Loved it.

 
6c+ Il Gigante e la Bambina Sport 22m Very Good
Gee tuff start pulling hard on some small slope edges. Once your past the second bolt it eases back to a great jug slab with a couple of hard move passing the steep greasy ledges up top.

 
6a Argo Navis Sport 25m Good
Warming up, some good big jugs on the steep parts and a suprise at the top.

 
4c Argo Sport 15m Good
Going for the extension. I climbed on the right of the bolts where the climbing is a little harder.

 
5c+ 6a+ Penelope Sport 18m, 7 Good
Not a bad little warm up. Some good holds and pockets mid way.

 
Mon 18th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Arginonta Arhi Arhi Main
6b+ 6c Icaro Sport 25m Good
Bam!! Third route in a row with out taking my shoes off and it's a real douzy. Hard thin side pull moves with smear feet. Tricker then Dave copperfield.

 
6a 6a+ Orione Sport 25m Very Good
One of the best slabs I have climbing in kalymnos and that's saying something.

 
6c+ Mofeta Sport 27m Very Good
Great climbing up big black flowstone, one of the hardest challenges was keeping out of all the green goo soup on some of the holds. Great gritstone training, you would of loved it paul.

 
7b+ 7c Eros Sport 20m Classic
Second shot.. Mainly steep jugs and tufa's but with a very nowra like boulder crux at the 4th bolt, nail this and it's in the bag.

 
7a Kastor Sport 15m Classic
Blobs, tufa's and buckets up a blank steep wall. Wicked fun jugging but I surprised myself by getting pumped. A great link-up line of limestone features.

 
6b+ Il Pittore Sport 18m Classic
I really liked this one, the thin crux isn't that bad and the whole route is good fun. This wall feels a lot like nowra climbing.........plus tufa's and blobs.

 
6b 6b+ Thetis Sport 18m Very Good
Sweet limestone bridging to a mega tufa.

 
6c+ Harry Parterre Sport 42m, 18 Very Good
Now that's a bit better.. I got a solid leg pump on this long slab, the top is very enjoyable and it keeps you thinking till the very top.

 
6a+ Stanislas Sport 30m Average
The guide it dead to me, super classic my ass.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Zeus & White Shark
6b 6b+ La Mouette Généreuse (La Mouette Genereuse) Sport 20m Good
Re-warm up lap, a couple of cool pocket problem sections but the ledges could be a problem if this was your limit.

 
7c Blonde Sport 35m, 17 Classic
Sick biscuits, second shot today... Took a bit of a whip from the end of the crux first shot, solid the whole way on the send. I can't see how this used to be 8a, unless your short.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Grande Grotta
7a Elefantenhimmel Sport 30m Good
Not three stars but good fun if all the other routes are wet or busy. Its like climbing up a massive tree untill you hit the anchour clip hold which is the smallest hold on the entire rig.

 
5a Elefantenhimmel Part 1 Sport 15m Good
Did this three time today to access the upper pitch. Not to bad and very unique rock forms.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Panorama
6c 6c+ Cyclops Sport 20m Very Good
A great little compact route, a few different tufa styles and a sloppy finish. Good value.

 
6c+ Uncle Bert Sport 20m Good
A little wet at the start but not to hard. Wet tufa moves up top as well. The middle was dry

 
Sat 16th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Grande Grotta
7a+ Ivi Sport 20m Mega Classic
Sweet tufa fun I really want this one onsight so I was hyped when I got through the crux to a bomber rest, steep grade 21 jugs to the anchours. Lest pumpy then DNA but a harder crux.

 
7a DNA Sport 20m Classic
Hooray I did it putting the draws the draws on today. Knee bars the whole way to heaven.

 
6c Taz Sport 27m Classic
Another one that was a bit harder then I thought it would be. Quite sustained, I am not sure which holds I was and wasn't meant to touch? No extension??

 
6a+ 6b Monahiki Elia Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
A bit tricker then I was expecting for a warm up. Trying to avoid the big black wet tufa was probably the crux.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Poets
6c+ 7a Omero Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Mega for such a short route, I felt at home on this technical crimpy test piece. Climbs like a bluies slab. The stars given in the guide for this wall are all over the place.

 
6a+ Styx Sport 25m, 9 Average
This climb has about 2m's of worthwhile climbing.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Iannis
7a Sens Unique Sport 40m Mega Classic
A new kaly must. Sweet moves all the way to the top of the wall no really hard moves but constantly absorbing and engaging climbing. 40m's of super orange block holds

 
7a+ Verikoko Sport 30m Classic
Sweet orange blocky climbing.. This part of the wall is super sweet. Top of the route is somewhat sustained edges, blocks and underclings. You gotta move your feet a fair bit to make some of the hand holds work.

 
7a 7a+ Attitude Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
A rare flash on an onsighting holiday. A bit of a weird climb this one with more then its share of chalk. Punchy mid crux.

 
6c+ Adolf in the Bay Sport 20m Very Good
Mmm This climbing is starting to get real polished, black slippy footers. Rad block orange wall route.

 
6c Zagori Sport 40m Good
Long and quite demanding in places. Easy start made hard trying to avoid the green wet messy.

 
6b Kalyne Sport 30m, 12 Good
Interesting warm up route, great climbing in the upper parts where up climb and bridge up a cool groove.

 
Thu 14th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Odyssey
6a+ Poly Retsina No Good Sport 15m Average
Another case of the misleading guide. Not really worth the effort.

 
6b+ Mermizeli Sport 15m Good
Great steep smooth jugs till you top the bulge then the holds disappear. It's only short so no real loss.

 
6c Ciao Vecchio (Ciao Vecio) Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
By now it was getting super windy lor, Mach 10 gales... I loved the start moves, bomber rock, jug to jug fun. I had to chill out at the rest half way up so lara could sort a knot in the rope then steep and a but tricky moves to the top.

 
7a 6c+ Calipso Sport 20m Very Good
6c+ in the guide. Weirdo start which I am sure I made well harder then it needed to be. Cruise middle with a nice runout the sustained steep and smooth jugs to the anchor, climb quickly.

 
Thu 14th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Iliada
7a+ Polipitis Sport 25m Very Good
I managed to pull past the hard pocket moves once I sorted my feet. Shares the same no hands rest as Zorba them back left for some steep tufa action.

 
6c+ Paris Sport 30m Good
I agree with lee this was harder then I was expecting it to be but I liked it.. It was quite technical in places and no easy win. High end of the grade.

 
7a Nestoras Sport 28m Classic
Wicked pocket and feature climbing to a pop at the crux. A little tricky in places but pretty Stella.

 
6c Ektor Sport 28m Classic
Mega huecos to start them more interesting and absorbing climbing. All the tops of these routes have really interesting rock features and pockets. Limestone over conglomerate rock, makes for some funky jugs.

 
6a+ Beautiful Helen Sport 30m Classic
One of the best 6a+ I have done on the island. A must do if your in the area and looking for a nice long warm up. The little steep jug traverse in the middle is super.

 
6a 6b Pénélope Sport 25m Good
A new route next to Ekavi. Nice climbing but a little sharp down the bottom.

 
6a+ 6a Ekavi Sport 25m Very Good
Really nice, a grey slab start that isn't sharp... The tufa was super wet but you only need to use one hold on it and that was dry.

 
Sun 10th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Zeus & White Shark
7b Rocklandis Sport 30m Very Good
Not a bad little climb before lunch, the crux is a way cool sequence on little pockets and a vertical slot. Shares the same top three bolts with Callisto so not a full onsight. Thanx for the catch kent. A touch soft.

 
7a 6c+ Callisto (Kallisto) Sport 28m Good
Nice climb with only a couple of hard moves in the middle. There's a patch of brittle grey rock that reminds me a lot of the rock at point, not the good parts....

 
6c+ Mad Dad Sport 30m Good
Good long wandery route that stay pretty Stustained between good jugs, grease cave half way up... A little sharp in places but pleasant compared to some other kaly limestone.

 
Sat 9th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Zeus & White Shark
6c Blonde, James Blonde Sport 25m Very Good
From the third bolt on this route is plenty of fun. Great pockets and moves though a little reachy to the anchour.

 
6b+ Kalyfornication Sport 25m Good
The first half isn't that flash to the ledge just easy gery slab moves. From the half ledge is much better blobby mini tufa climbing. Good warm up.

 
Thu 7th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Odyssey
6a+ Femio Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Last climb of the day and last of the atena, Circe, femio trilogy. A nice way to warm down but no cake walk. I can't wait to get back and climb more of the Stella routes a odyssey.

 
6b 6b+ Circe Sport 19m, 7 Classic
Crimpy and sustained at the grade, back to back with atena starting to feel the end of the day pump.

 
6b+ Atena Sport 18m, 8 Classic
More enjoyable semi steep climbing, the rock in this sector is really nice and and smooth. There is a great secquence of mini crimps in the middle with good feet.

 
6c 6b+ Why Not? Sport 15m Good
Why not indeed, didnt look to bad but a fair bit of wet tufa in the middle, no worries just pull past it.

 
6c+ Satyros Sport 20m Mega Classic
My first mega classic of the trip, super fun on smooth rock which makes it harder but kinder on the skin. Loved it.

 
6c Feta Sport 18m Classic
I love tufa's... I was looking for all the kneebars but couldn't find any untill I nearly pumped out and found a great bar to help me through the crux. Great climb.

 
6b+ Mythos Sport 32m Good
Yes it's long and it does make a good warm up in these parts but its sharp and comiting up top.

 
Wed 6th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Skalia Ghost Kitchen
6a Talon Sport 15m Good
I feel sorry for any 6a climbers hoping to climb this... Not easy. That a side I really enjoyed it.

 
6c+ Totenhansel Sport 25m Classic
This felt a bit harder then the other 6c+'s on this wall until you reach the first mega blog tufa tree stump. The only route without a low first bolt. I had to wait a fair while to the two euros finished top roping and failing.

 
7a+ 7a Ioli Sport 30m, 12 Classic
I really enjoyed this, got a couple of good tufa seats at the top and slipped out left for a move following the chalk near the anchors. It would be 7b if you tried climbing direct. Felt easier then axium

 
6a+ Delta Sport 25m, 10 Good
It's a decent route if your ignore the fact that is graded 6a+.. Supersandbagged.

 
6c+ Axium Sport 30m Classic
A bit over hyped but a kaly must do. The moves to the anchor almost caught me off guard. This is one wild wall, I don't think you can say you have climbed tufa's until you have climbed here. Used to be 7a+????

 
6c+ Dafni Sport 30m, 9 Classic
Tufa warfare!!! The tufa's on this bad ass are more like tree stumps. Great stylish move in the middle from a two finger pocket. Sweet.

 
6c 6c/c+ Remember Wadi Rum Sport 25m, 8 Classic
A great route to learn how to tufa climb... Not to hard just a pinchy spot up top

 
6c Resista Sport 35m Classic
Wicked fun and a super fun climb, funky holds in all the rights places but far apart. And real climber swinging climb.

 
6b 6a+ Joy in the Garden Sport 25m, 13 Very Good
Much better, a good little warm up route.

 
6a+ 6a Absent Friends Sport 25m Average
I got on this by mistake and was rewarded with sharp holds and lots of fresh little plants in the pockets. Climbing joy in the garden instead.

 
Tue 5th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartan Wall
6b Problème Mineur (Probleme Mineur) Sport 32m, 14 Average
Talked up in the guide and good climbing from halfway but to get there you have to pull in super sharp little slab crimps. Maybe I was being a bit of a girl but at the EOD it was unpleasant. The top is not much easier. Felt 6c at least.

 
Tue 5th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartacus
6b+ Harakiri Sport 25m, 9 Classic
The most chalked line I have climbed yet, mainly jugs but a couple of hard sequenced pulls at the crux.

 
7a Kerveros Sport 30m Mega Classic
Mega route with wicked limestone features the whole way, fell into a great knee bar rest at the top crux just in time. Down played in the guide but one of the best routes so far....

 
Tue 5th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Jurassic Park
6b Themelis Sport 30m Very Good
I am started to think that the guide book author over hypes his routes and down plays others. Sure the top of this route was good but the bottom was nothing flash. On the plus side you can belay from the ground with a 70m rope.

 
6c+ 7a Dike Sport 32m Very Good
Yep jugs most of the way but is strange places, this route wanders around a lot so it hard to know where the holds are some times. I snuck a little rest on the half way mini ledge but was still fighting hard at the top.

 
6c 6c+ Fossil Wall Sport 25m Good
This route felt right at my limit with the shitty mood I was in...? It's a pretty mega walk to get to this crag but it was in the sun early and out of the wind. Many a hand jam in jugs made this route possible for me. Scary and airy up top.

 
6b 6b+ Pterodactyl Sport 18m Good
It's only short but good value.

 
Mon 4th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Grande Grotta
7a+ Aphrodite Sport 12m Very Good
Second shot, it was dry and favours the tall so why not.. I didn't mind this route because it forced me to commit and pull hard. Couple of hard moves but an easy route.

 
5c 6a Happy Girlfriend Sport 15m Good
Climbed to take a photo from the top, I was surprised that there was a couple of hard moves.

 
Mon 4th Mar 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Panorama
6b 6b+ Panselinos Sport 20m, 12 Very Good
More wet action, for some reason I got scared up top with all the wet holds made it feel a lot harder then it needed to be.

 
6b Carpe Diem Sport 16m, 8 Very Good
My kalymnos dreams of tufa pulling madness have been dashed by all the rain in the last couple of weeks Fun tufa pulling, a little wet in places but the whole wall was very drippy.

 

Showing all 79 ascents.

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