Ascents in Wilder Kaiser by Julian Parsert

Felt really hard for the grade.

If you happen to be here when this route is dry (which is almost never the case), you must try it. It is amazing! Did it with kneepad and nohand kneebar in the middle. Nevertheless, I got sooooo pumped in the easy top out on the best jugs you could think of.

Pumpy business. I challenge everyone to show me more beautiful climbs. Not because I doubt they exist but because I want to climb them too. Took longer than expected, but never invested more than a warm-up/cool-down go. Today with an awesome crew and high (35°C+) temperatures the time was ripe and the enducance here.

WTF. 3rd go first 7c+ in one session (I knew the start already). WHAT A FIGHT. Felt like falling at every move. I had to shake at every hold thinking to myself - one more move and then I can let go. I used the knee bar. Probably a far reach/hard move if you lack the height - so quite morpho I think. Without pre-clip

Next warmup/cooldown project done. Figuring out how to clip the 4th draw was the crux. Moves are really good, way better than it looks.

Bolting, cleaning, and ascending, all in one day.

No preclip. Nice shoulder moves

3rd go.

Second go. Tall people beta, with jump to jug. Also ignored the shallow two finger pocket.

Approximately 4 sessions around 10 goes. Really nice moves, but doesn't look as nice. Feels like 8a to me but it is hard to judge because both the crux and the overall style of the route suites me VERY well (so, could also be 8a+). It's hard to imagine a route which plays to my strengths more than this. Around 7b route to very good rest followed by a morpho boulder pulling from an undercling to a far away hold. The boulder is probably easier the taller you are.

Right Exit. Finally, first 8a!!! Amazing route with super cool funky moves. ~5 sessions, ~ 10-15 goes. Spent 2 or 3 sessions finding the right beta for the bottom boulder. The crimp on the right is better than you think at first and takes time getting used to. I did not need to dyno anything, could use left heel hook. after opening the right toe hook. Top boulder with cross move to crimp with left and hooking left heel to right hand followed by a span to the 2 or 3 finger pocket.

4/5 sessions. Funky climbing. No-hand kneebar into jam-your-foot-above-your-head into throw to hold from underclings. Really nice. With a spicy middle part and a nice enjoyable easy top part.

7 sessions, 20 goes. Finally, hardest route to date. Beautiful line. In the end it was an endurance problem. Last week I fell from the last hold. I couldn't believe it. This week I finally managed to keep it together and send. In the end my strategy to avoid getting pumped was to just speed up. I only chalked twice after the rest. I did the entry from (Damen)Gambit it is way nicer this way and not wet all the time.

First 7c. Definitely on the soft side. 6 goes (incl. checking out the moves) 2 full sessions. I found the lower part not as easy as others seem to find it. Did the two finger pocket into far move. Rested long at the resting spot. The left toe hook is really important and I am tall enough to keep it in until i get both hands on the crimps. Then I simultaneously let go of the toe hook (left) and jump (with hands and right foot) to jug. The undercling move over the lip is not so easy if you are tall (I think). In total a very nice route with an interesting crux sequence.

Third session. Maybe around 8 goes. First try in second session felt like i could never do the crux after coming from the ground. But already the try afterwards was surprisingly good. Today it went down thrid go after being not warm enough in the first and not finding the footholds and completely fucking up the second go or to put it in Pawel's words "That was bullshit!". Finally third go was the one although the last moves over the lip felt extremely hard again.

Took me 3 sessions. Always fell on the upper part with the pockets. The lower part felt quite easy (but draining). Entrance boulder is probably easier when you are tall. Approx. 8 goes.