Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10b | ★ On the road again - with D-Lit, FreddyAllport | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.2 | Scary Monsters - with FreddyAllport | 22m | Don't Bother | |||
Finally found this lost climb from the 80s! Still a few scary monsters around the top, and the corner at the top is vary dirty. No bolted anchor at the finish.
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5.5 | ★★★ Halloween - with FreddyAllport, D-Lit | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally found this lost climb. It should probably be done as two pitches to deal with the rope drag better, as you can now borrow the bolts of the climbs it traverses across. The climb finishes on the slab with 'Unknown (Eagles Nest)'[2694527262] and can be topped out from there. There are a few dirty sections and a very large loose block towards the top after the anchor of 'Core Values, Pitch 1'.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10c 5.10b | ★★ Nocturnal Tendencies | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still a little dirty around the bottom, but this could clean off nicely with a bit of time. The moves through the roof were awesome! Felt the grade was about 5.10c.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Phasers on Kill Direct - with FreddyAllport, D-Lit | 16m, 2 | Average | |||
Climbed this to set up a top rope so FreddyAllport and Dave could practice placing gear, but I messed up the beta around the first bolt and had to lower back down to try again.
The gear in the small chimney at the top is pretty bad. |
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Warbird - with FreddyAllport, D-Lit | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Did this as a warm up, pretty good hold all the way up, but felt a bit easier than 5.10a to me.
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5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. - with FreddyAllport, D-Lit | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb with some cool moves through the little roof section.
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Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ City Folk - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Tampon Applicator - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Assimilation - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did both variations of this climb, really liked the moves through the roof section.
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5.10b | ★★ Assimilation Direct - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun new climb, great addition to the area.
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Tue 29th Oct 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Try to stay near or right of the bolts for fun more difficult climbing. One of the best looking climbs at Calabogie.
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Tue 29th Oct 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Head Banger | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Unknown (Eagles Nest) | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We climbed this at the end of the day with headlamps then topped out to take the upper trail back to the car.
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Sat 26th Oct 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Huffin Glue Ins - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great lower section with an option for a dyno to skip a few mediocre holds!
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Fri 25th Oct 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Cosmic Teacup - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Pull Up - with Ryan Parker | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Head Banger - with Ryan Parker | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ On the road again - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ It's 4:20 Somewhere - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
As must as I would love to say I onsighted 5.11a, I feel like this is closer to 5.10c. Still a great climb though.
There is a loose feeling block about half way up, my partner gave it a few kicks while rappelling and it held but one or two more winters and it might come loose. |
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5.7 | ★★ Eagle's Nest (Unknown (Eagles Nest)) - with Ryan Parker | 20m, 10 | ||||
Recently bolted slab that tops out right at eagles nest, (you might surprise some hikers). Easy climbing most of the way up, but a somewhat scary last move relative to the rest of the climb.
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Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Head Banger - with Ryan Parker | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
great warm up for the area.
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5.10d | ★★ Tampon Applicator - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally tried this one after having an obsession with 'Res-Erection', solid climbing all day way up, there is a somewhat critical hold just below the second bolt that feels like it's about to peel off, so make sure your belayer is paying attention through this low section.
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5.10d | ★★ She Got Thrilled (She Got Drilled) - with Ryan Parker | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had done this one before a few years back but never logged it. Got the rope caught under my foot as I pushed up into the mantle a few years ago. Was sure not to make that mistake again.
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Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Esmerelda - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
good warm up, low crux with a high first bolt. Would recommend stick clipping if you aren't comfortable at this grade.
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5.10b | ★ FF Direct - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 4 | ||||
Fun low crux with easy climbing above.
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10d | ★ E.B. (Eskimo Brothers) | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10- | ★ Strolsma - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ||||
5.10b | ★ On the road again - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Shanti - with Thomas Corkum | 13m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Ain't no wifey - with Thomas Corkum | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a 5.10c | ★★ City Folk - with Thomas Corkum | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk - with Thomas Corkum | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Fogged Up - with Thomas Corkum | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger - with Thomas Corkum | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip - with Thomas Corkum | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Huffin Glue Ins - with Thomas Corkum | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tom found a nice dyno near the second bolt.
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5.9 5.10- | ★★ Dogma - with Thomas Corkum | 13m, 5 | ||||
5.3 | Clarify still Classify - with Thomas Corkum | 13m | ||||
Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.7 5.6 | ★ Paparazzi | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 8th Sep 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Although tempting to climb the features to the left at of the first bolt, it climbs clean up the middle.
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5.5 | Steve As' Route - with Ryan Parker | 15m | Average | |||
5.9 | ★ Moje Zlato - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.3 | Clarify still Classify - with Ryan Parker | 13m | ||||
Sat 8th Sep 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Next Generation - with Ryan Parker | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Cosmic Teacup - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.1 | The Meadow | 13m | Average | |||
5.7 | ★ Karma Points - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Huffin Glue Ins - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I've now seen 3 different methods of getting through the first section to the second bolt, however, they are all about the same difficulty.
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Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Phasers on Kill - with Ryan Parker | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Flaky Flake | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 12th Aug 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Ain't no wifey - with Ryan Parker, Nik Argiropoulos | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk - with Ryan Parker, Nik Argiropoulos | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 5.6 X | Choss Pile - with Ryan Parker, Nik Argiropoulos | 16m | Crap | |||
5.10a | ★★ Bolts are for Kids - with Ryan Parker, Nik Argiropoulos | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took two attempts to get the sequence right through the roof, but very stoked to get this one.
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Mon 6th Aug 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Huffin Glue Ins - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm pretty sure the intended beta is to climb to the left of the first bolt up the featured sections... but it is possible to climb to the right, just much harder.
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5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Hakuna-Matata - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 29th Jul 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ I'm a Doctor, Not a Climber ((unknown 3)) | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start with a high first bolt, consider using a stick clip if you aren't very comfortable leading 5.8-5.9.
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Sun 29th Jul 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Awkward Overhangs - with Ryan Parker | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, and not too awkward.
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Sun 10th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Fogged Up - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Stage Left - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Shanti - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ||||
Sat 9th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Calabogie Sunset | 15m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Uncomfortable holds at the bottom to jugs at the top and awkward pro. Would not recommend.
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Sat 9th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Ain't no wifey | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Scoops | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
5.10d | ★★ Res-Erection - with Ryan Parker | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★ Bad Roady - with Ryan Parker | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ The Big Reach (The Reacharound) - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Very dirty, needs a good clean, otherwise great route.
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5.10a | ★★ Head Arete - with Ryan Parker | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Head Banger - with Ryan Parker | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 4th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Hakuna-Matata | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 3rd Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Buck's First FA | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Fun traverse, hasn't been climbed in a long time and could use a clean.
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Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Cosmic Teacup - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Pull Up - with Ryan Parker | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger - with Ryan Parker | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash - with Ryan Parker | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.3 | Clarify still Classify | 13m | ||||
Sat 12th May 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
Class 4 | 2nd Easy Way Down | |||||
Sat 12th May 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ First Flight | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 12th May 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | Steve As' Route | 15m | Average | |||
5.10 5.10b | ★ Huffin Glue Ins | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Karma Points | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 6th May 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Donkey See, Donkey Do (Donkey Punch 2.0) | 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.6 | ★ Little Flo | 16m, 6 | Average | |||
Last move can be tricky if you can't reach the final jug.
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Thu 19th Oct 2017 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Breakfast Cookie | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Ethical Overhang | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Could be a good climb, but seems like it hasn't been climbed in a long time, could use a clean.
Went to the left of the small cedar, could go right too. |
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5.4 | Spruce Root Chute | 11m | Average | |||
Doesn't seem to have been climbed in a few years. Well protected through the middle, with an exposed move into the dihedral.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pussy Whipped | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Used a pink tri-cam in the Crack instead of a cam.
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5.9 | Cream Puff | 15m, 2 | ★ Good |