Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
25 | ||||||||
10 A1 | ★★ The Undertaker - with Anton Steketee | 18m | Arapiles | Sun 5th Jan 2014 | ||||
learning to aid with a toprope. Some of the old pins can't be clipped because they're bashed too far in.
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21 R | ||||||||
21 | ★ The Ferrets Are Coming | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 11th Mar 2012 | |||
21 | ||||||||
21 | ★★ No Future - with BJ | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Oct 2014 | |||
Hard moves at the traverse. Not sure if you're supposed to move back left and through rooflet or just continue straight up on jugs.
|
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21 R | ||||||||
19 | ★ The Ferrets Are Coming - with timmi | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 8th Jun 2015 | |||
Reachy
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19 | ||||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2011 | |||
With Jamie and Jack. Loved it!
|
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19 | ★★★ Tarantula - with Starkey, barnsey | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | |||
Superb corner crack! Approach is a bit dicky.
|
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19 | ★★ Cheops - with Elisa | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Kind of hard to see where to go starting off the tree. Went up little depression between bulges heading towards leftmost crack. Seemed a bit dangerous so I'm feeling this is closer to 19 than 18.
The rest of the climb was great though. |
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19 | ★★★ Tannin - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Oct 2014 | |||
Alzheimers onsight - seconded this 3 years ago but didn't remember anything. Heaps of excellent protection available, I placed 18 pieces! Great climb for double ropes. A bit too much chalk for my liking.
|
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18 R | ||||||||
18 | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 9th May 2009 | |||
Had a blast after Missing Link. Fell off really quick but came back to the ground and then got it clean.
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19 | ★★ XI - with Freddy | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Sep 2012 | |||
Nice moves
|
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18 | ||||||||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet - with Freddy | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 21st Sep 2012 | |||
18 | ★★ Falcon - with Peter and BJ | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 5th Oct 2014 | |||
Pity about the big ledge in the middle.
|
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18 |
★★ Voodoo P1
- with
Philippe Brodeur
1
lead by
Phil
| 65m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Rapped from the bolts.
|
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||
I found the crux a little harder than asteroid, but I thought asteroid was more sustained and enjoyable. Missed the dinosaur but Elisa pointed it out while seconding.
|
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||
More sustained and enjoyable than dinosaur.
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Aug 2014 | |||
Great route, good gear. Small footers through the crux.
|
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18 | ★ Wascal - with Nick | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Reachy. An excellent wire at the crux helped a lot.
|
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18 | ★★★ Skink - with Nick Chappell | 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
Yeah baby! Superb line, awesome climb.
Got a couple of wires stuck in the belay so had to abseil down with a rock. |
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18 | ★★ Aardvark - with Philippe Brodeur | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Made me work a bit.
|
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18 | ★ Dude Boobs - with Philippe Brodeur | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | ||||
I felt the 2nd bolt wasn't required. It could be 17 with 2 bolts or 18 with just the 1st bolt.
|
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18 |
★★★ Eurydice
- with
Philippe Brodeur
1
18
lead by
Cameron
2
18
lead by
Philippe Brodeur
| 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Move onto the belay ledge was spicy! It rained while we were on the ledge so I got scared and Phil did the 2nd pitch.
|
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18 | ★★★ Death Row - with Philippe Brodeur | 45m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Thought I might have been condemned in that cell for life. Eventually worked out how to escape (there is chalk everywhere and most of it is no use.) The second crux at 2/3 height is also pretty nice.
|
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Philippe Brodeur | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Stellar route. Good protection. Very sustained after the low crux, strenuous to place gear there, then continuously absorbing before the final climax through the roof.
|
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18 | ★ Free Beer - with Elisa | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Nov 2014 | |||
Pretty good. Funky move at the crux.
|
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18 | ★★ King Rat - with Elisa Chaplin | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Required a bit of grunting to get up this. No time to hang around! Gear was pretty good but the rock is a bit average in places - i knocked a bit out while placing a cam.
|
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18 | ★ Shanghai - with Elisa Chaplin | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Nov 2014 | |||
Crux leaving the ground with no gear. Really nice climb after that. Loose blocks on top
|
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18 | ★★ Virginia - with Elisa Chaplin | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Nov 2014 | |||
Awesome line. Very sustained. Gets steeper and steeper as you go. Great summer climb.
|
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18 | ★★ Huey - with Elisa Chaplin | 16m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Man i love placing wires like this! Stellar route.
|
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18 R | ||||||||
18 18 R | ★★ XI - with Philippe Brodeur | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Oct 2014 | |||
Great route, more gear than I expected. Continually exciting. Excellent way to finish the trip.
|
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18 | ||||||||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet - with Anton | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
Continually absorbing. Fiddly gear at the start, good thereafter.
|
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18 | ★★ Kinkaid (Kincaid) - with Elisa Chaplin | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 29th Nov 2014 | |||
Nice route despite appearances. Climbed past bolts and up to alis.
|
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17 R | ||||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th May 2009 | |||
Good fun after abseiling off bluff major.
|
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17 | ||||||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | Arapiles | Sun 2nd Jan 2011 | ||||
17 R | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Jun 2011 | |||
Led P1.
|
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17 | ||||||||
18 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Jul 2011 | |||
Oceanoid, French Crack, haul bag up the back = sweet night camping on top of the pharos with Jamie and Jack
|
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16 | ★★ French Crack | 11m | Arapiles | Tue 28th Jun 2011 | ||||
With Jamie and Jack
|
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17 | ★ Crescendo - with jay | 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Apr 2014 | |||
Finish seemed like it would be hard if you were short.
|
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17 R | ||||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link - with Philippe Brodeur | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Good to second this after leading it a couple of months ago. Thought provoking but not as dangerous as its reputation.
|
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17 | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Preludes - with Elisa Chaplin | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Nov 2014 | |||
Jam on!
|
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17 | ★★ Swinging - with Starkey | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Took some natural pro as well, seemed like a good first 17 at Arapiles.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | |||
Only a short crux, first two thirds of the climb is relatively easy. My first trad 17 at araps.
|
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17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Starkey, barnsey | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | |||
Tough start, need a small cam. Then superb climbing.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Viv Hughan | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd May 2013 | |||
Linked P1+2. Start fairly strenuous. Second pitch nice. Third pitch superb.
|
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17 | ★★ lphigenia - with Sam Moffat | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | |||
Felt really strong on this, or maybe it's soft at the grade? Bit of farting around to get off the top.
|
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17 R | ||||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Oedipus Rex - with Nick Chappell | 150m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th May 2014 | |||
Unprotected boulder problem off ground, took me a few attempts. I suggest anchoring your belayer/spotter. After that it was a fairly pleasant route. Traverse on P1 exciting. Some nearby climbers made some suggestions for pulling around the roof on P4.
|
||||||||
17 | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Garden Gnome - with Nick Chappell | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
Was a little worried after seeing it was previously rated 18 here on thecrag, but it felt like an easy 17 to me. My reach might have helped.
Takes great pro, I laced it up waiting for the crux that never came. |
||||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - with Nick Chappell | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
Loved it. Gear was sufficient. Didn't see the old carrot mentioned in the guide.
|
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17 | ★ Mexican Madness - with Nick | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Pretty goey moving up to the flake! Placing gear was strenuous.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Got a bit scared at the jam crack so built a belay and brought Elisa up. Got braver and headed up. Super awesome climb. Placed more gear than was necessary but that's what I do when I'm peaking...
|
||||||||
17 | ★ Cruxless Knickers - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | Sun 26th Oct 2014 | ||||
Exciting route but it's only 2 moves long. Didn't see any loose blocks (as mentioned in the description.) There was one large flake though.
|
||||||||
17 | ★ Reunion - with Elisa Chaplin | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 8th Nov 2014 | |||
I'm 193cm tall. Placed a high cam at the start at full stretch to protect the crux rockover move.
|
||||||||
17 | ★ Maximus - with Mieka Webb | 13m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||
Thought I was onsighting, but turns out I toproped it 2 years ago. Felt pretty solid on this, perhaps due to being tall. Gear is alright, despite looking thin from below.
|
||||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid - with Viv Hughan | 75m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 23rd May 2013 | |||
Hard hard hard! Pushed me to my limit. I was stoked when I was through the crux on P1, but there was plenty more to come. Used all draws and cams on P1, used all draws on P2. Messed up double ropes on P2 twisting them around each other. Step across scary and hard. Bottomless chimney challenging! Led all the way up to French Crack - the last overhang isn't easy either.
|
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17 | ★ Crescendo - with Sam Moffat | 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 24th Apr 2014 | |||
Easy since I knew the moves.
|
||||||||
17 R | ||||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate - with Nick Chappell | 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Redpoint, but 3 years since I seconded it so I didn't really remember anything. That block below the crux freaked me out big time. Then some very hard moves, but the gear was better than I was expecting.
|
||||||||
17 | ||||||||
17 | ★★ French Crack - with Nick Chappell | 11m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
Finally able to get up this today. Took a fall on my first attempt but then worked out a sequence
|
||||||||
17 R | ||||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - with Nick Chappell | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Jun 2014 | |||
Gear much better than expected. Placed a couple of tiny wires but also lots of bomber big wires too. Crux for me was at 3m. Then arrange good wires before an easy traverse and some more gear. After that it was consistently thought provoking but not scary.
Great route! Looks like I toproped this 5 years ago so it's a mere redpoint, but I didn't really remember anything useful. |
||||||||
17 | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge - with Elisa | 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Aug 2014 | |||
Didn't remember much from last time, quite pleasant.
|
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18 |
★★★ Oceanoid (Oceanoid P1)
- with
elisa Chaplin
1
lead by
Cameron
| 75m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Led p1 after Elisa bailed. Abseiled off. Doubles and a few long slings helped subdue any rope drag.
|
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17 | ★★ Spellbinder - with Elisa | 27m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Really nice line, well worthwhile.
|
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16 | ||||||||
16 | ★★★ The Watchtower Crack | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Apr 2009 | |||
Sweeet! Beware the small belay ledge for the last pitch.
|
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17 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jul 2011 | |||
With Jamie.
|
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15 | ★ Rubbery Under Arms - with Pat and Morgan | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 4th Oct 2014 | |||
Not much to it.
|
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16 | ★ Hum - with Philippe Brodeur | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
High 1st piece.
|
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15 | ★ Celeste - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 24th Oct 2014 | |||
Exciting enough. 15 in the mentz and tempest guide.
|
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16 R | ||||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga - with Dylan, Chewy | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2012 | |||
Borrowed a bunch of small/micro cams (ended up with 17 cams total) for this (my first 16 lead at Araps) and it didn't seem runout at all. Placed just 1 nut.
|
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16 | ||||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
3rd pitch super awesome. 4th a disappointment.
|
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16 R | ||||||||
16 16 R | ★ Blow by Blow - with Mike Barnes | 59m | Arapiles | Average | Thu 20th Dec 2012 | |||
Not worth a star. Could easily see a ground fall happening near the start (which is the crux). Would not climb it again.
Once you get to the first decent gear at about 8m it's quite nice climbing. |
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16 | ||||||||
16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Mieka Webb | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||
Maybe half a star. Found the crux quite tough, not sure if it's because I am tall? Mieka cruised it on 2nd.
Good small wires at crux. |
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16 |
★ Decibel
- with
Toby
1
lead by
me
2
| 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 29th Jan 2013 | |||
Climbed P1 only. Ambling until the quite pronounced but well protected crux.
|
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16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
|
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16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
|
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16 |
★★ Skylark
- with
Anton Steketee
1
16
lead by
Cameron
| 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jan 2014 | |||
One definite crux - very pleasant though.
|
||||||||
16 |
★ Deathwatch Beetle (Deathwatch Beetle Linkup The Lute Direct)
- with
Anton Steketee
1
13
linkup The Lute Direct
, lead by
Anton
3
16
lead by
Cameron
4
10
lead by
Anton
| 130m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 8th Jan 2014 | |||
Climbed Menz + Tempest version. Crux pitch very nice - very thin face moves followed very closely by steep jugs - contrasting. The rest of the route was a bit mediocre though.
|
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16 | ★★ Arab - with Sam Moffat | 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 25th Apr 2014 | |||
Started in wrong R facing corner (closer to eskimo nell.)
Linked P1+2 (horrible rope drag)
Crux felt very hard at 15. A solid 16 I would say!! I went across and back about 7 or 8 times before committing to a very awkward sequence.
Sam led the final 2 pitches.
Ropes got stuck on top part of abseil
|
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16 | ★★ Coming on Chris - with Sam Moffat | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | |||
Felt tough, but well protected so all good. Quite sequency traversing left.
|
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16 | ★ Stentor 3rd Pitch - with Sam Moffat | 12m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Apr 2014 | |||
A little gem.
|
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16 R | ||||||||
16 16 R | ★★ The Confession - with Elisa Chaplin | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Mar 2015 | |||
A few moves above your gear
|
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16 | ||||||||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jun 2012 | |||
First pitch very nice. 2nd pitch super cruxy start (pox being belayed from the side) and then super easy after that.
|
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16 | ★★ Yo Yo - with Geoff | 90m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Dec 2012 | |||
Superb second pitch, rest of the climb good but not great. Linked pitches 3+4.
|
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16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack (The Watchtower Crack) - with Mike Barnes | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Dec 2012 | |||
Super grouse. Loved it. Linked p 1+2.
|
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16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack - with Viv Hughan | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd May 2013 | |||
Linked 1+2 again. Had a BD 5 cam, would be easier with a 5 and a 6.
|
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16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack - with Anton Steketee | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Jan 2014 | |||
With BD 5 and 6 cams. Just as awesome as always. Maybe it felt a little harder this time due to a few months off climbing. Found a bail biner on the 1st bolt. Easy to see why.
|
||||||||
15 | ||||||||
15 | ★ Hornpipe | 33m | Arapiles | Average | Tue 26th May 2009 | |||
With Darren and Jamie on a TAFE trip. Interesting getting along the jetty from horn piece.
|
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15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th May 2009 | |||
Great airy crux. With Tim and Dan Bowser on a TAFE trip.
|
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde - with Elisa | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Aug 2014 | |||
Get your limbs inside the crack! Take a bd 4. A 5 is handy too.
|
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15 | ★ Viagra - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Oct 2014 | |||
Cool climb. Nice boulder on top to tie a bowline around.
|
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14 15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Jun 2011 | |||
Grade 15 in volume 2 of Araps Selected. Loved it - protection great. With Anton.
|
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15 | ★★ Agent Orange | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st May 2012 | |||
Great climbing, very sustained. Loved it!
|
||||||||
15 | ★ Bozo | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jun 2012 | |||
Exciting top-out.
Building the top anchor required some creativity also. |
||||||||
15 | ★ Orange Crush | 10m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jun 2012 | |||
Enjoyed it!
|
||||||||
15 | ★ Puppy Love - with jess | 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 20th Oct 2012 | |||
Plenty of variety, big ledge detracts somewhat.
|
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15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with jess | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Oct 2012 | |||
Beautiful
|
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15 | ★★ Bulger - with Anton | 60m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Oct 2012 | |||
Very exciting and committing. Wind added to the atmosphere.
|
||||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser - with Starkey | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Pitches 1-3. Great traversing at end of 3rd pitch.
|
||||||||
15 | ★ The Philanthropist - with Starkey | 30m | Arapiles | Average | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Nothing specialStarkey
|
||||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance - with Darren, Norman | 140m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Jan 2013 | |||
2nd pitch was the best bit. Linked pitches 2+3. Pitch 4 wandered a bit, doubles were handy.
|
||||||||
15 |
★ Viagra (Viagra P1)
- with
Mieka Webb
1
15
lead by
Cameron
| 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||
Pitch 1 felt stout at 15, but then we ran out of light (mostly due to P1 being harder than expected and taking me a long time) and so I chickened out of p2. Tried to lead out right and up to what I thought was the top in the dark. Arrived at large ledge, not the top, well and truly dark. Rapped of a sling. Will have to come back for pitch 2!
|
||||||||
15 |
★ Viagra
- with
Toby Phillips
1
15
lead by
Me
2
15
lead by
Me
| 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Came back to get this out in daylight. First pitch has interesting moves, utilising both the chimney and the crack. Second pitch very thin to start, then it eases off.
|
||||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation - with Viv Hughan | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
first pitch quite nice, stellar curving sickle layback on second pitch, then mediocre
|