Ascents in Arapiles as various tick types by jono schmidt

how i wish i was leading this one. looked so good from rap off judgement day and it was. protect with some small wires or small cams. two tricky moves...at start after jug and then onto shelf two moves after. not very steep climb...brilliant rock and features. worth it's grade.

certainly not a grade 20...more like an 18 with a few 19 moves. anyway fuckin brilliant climb. good balance and body tension required and some side pulls or gusto moves. crux probably getting into last right leaning diagnol. first pitch was lamplighter with interesting move onto shelf to first belay station. second belay station a waste and linked judgement day as one pitch...two pitons and a manky bolt were clipped for protection otherwise i only used three bits of good gear. lovely!

damn good climb! right leading diagnal with slopers and bum cracks. did to pitch through crack but didn't have to jam...scary solo descent to rap chains on top of chinese algebra.

over rated arapiles classic. only one great pitch just after traverse. wouls have been more fun solo.

did second (last) pitch only after rapping off from watchtoer crack. bloody scary and hard to protect crux through bulge after flake. was pulling up on a mono digit pocket for fucks sake! after little roof most of the hard climbing is over. need big balls to lead this one!

did first pitch only on rescue mission...very nice well protected. simul climb next time.

lead third crux pitch through roof only. beautiful climbing, the layback is so natural! bolts help ease the mind. second entire route again on 21/9/03...didn't use layback this time.

what can i say...worth three stars!! bold crux traverse on small pro at top. great because you've got to use the only holds that are available, no multiple choice!

good but not great. my reach made climbing the cracks easy. onsight second crux pitch only.

multiple choice face climbing with lots of one hand side pulls. crux after roof. not as good as lemington...direct approach looks better, next time.

crux start. superb face climb.

first pitch only...bailed off 'cause second was a mix of choss blocks. first pitch i thought was very nice indeed.

crux layback at start. awesome face climb not so hard for grade. should lead next time.

sweet climb! now i know how this climb got its name

i would not want to be a grade 13 climber leading this one!

chimney crux not so much of a crux after all. absolutely awesome climbing, well protected.