Showing all 44 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
16 6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Most fun climb I've done for a long time. Aesthetically pleasing, great views, fun moves, huge megajugs where you want them, well protected, steep enough to be interesting, and much softer than its grade suggested. I struggled on a lot of Tonsai 6a's and this felt a lot easier.
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Ton Sai | ||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
6a | ★ Caroline's Last Day P1 | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a scary start - juggy, but overhanging and with ground fall potential on the second clip. I heard a new leader had fallen here a few weeks back and broke her ankles... focuses the mind. The rest of the climb up the tunnel is fun and well protected. The top pitch was soaking so we didn't do it - probably only dry in the dry season.
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
5 | ★ Giggerig for Climbing | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Would be more fun without the crowds. Pumpy start then easy.
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay | ||||||
Diamond Cave | ||||||
5 | ★ Kai Kad | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
nice positive well protected climb
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5 | ★ Mot Daeng | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Another good easy climb. Straight up and then veer right around the shield-shaped steep bit. Chock Dee goes to the left around the shield and is a little harder.
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6a | ★ Chok Dee (Chock Dee) | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing on clean well protected rock. Amazing limestone to climb on. Had a troop of mangrove monkeys join me on the climb - far bettter climbers than I'll ever be, they were both entertaining and discouraging as they free-solo downclimbed sections I could not get up!
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
18 6b | ★★ Massage Secrets | 37m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
second time I've done it, would be happy to do it each time I visit - as long as I can do it when there are no people there...
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Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay | ||||||
Diamond Cave | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Mosquito Coil | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Second time around, a year later.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Makoron Land | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Shower Colon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and sometimes awkward climb. I used the tree at the top which makes it easier - next time I'll try without.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Cinderella face | ||||||
5.8 | Tom Sawyer | 20m | ||||
Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.
Descent Options: You could lower off a bunch of old manky tat attached precariously to rusty bolts and fraying ropes like I did - or pull your rope and step over to the top of Cinderella and lower off that. Anchors badly need replacing. |
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5.6 | ★ Pumpkin Coach | 15m | ||||
easy, good clean fun
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5.7 | ★★ Cinderella | 17m | ||||
Nice line, good fun.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Ali Baba area | ||||||
5.10a 5.10a/b | ★★ Anne | 10m, 4 | ||||
Nice route, got the onsight but only just... steeper than it looks at the crux
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5.10b | ★★ Ali Baba | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, steeper than it looks, with delicate fingery crux. Well protected so a good lead for new to the grade. Took one fall.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Silk Road | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good intro to the area, it is a trade route and always crowded. Well protected, good for the new leader.
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5.8 | ★ Inchiki Suruna (Don't Cheat) | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Upper | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Ultra 7 | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Kawaii Onna | 18m | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | Hourouheki | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Took three tries to get through this - one move wonder, but interestingly technical. Scary descent.
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5.9 | Ogawayama Short Story | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Nishimatazawa Taigan Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Kawakami Kouta | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Santao XXX | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Regular | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Gamma Crack | 15m | ||||
backed off this - crux jam stripped skin off my hands
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Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Slabs | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Braveheart | 27m | ||||
5.10b | ★ Heart & Soul | 27m | ||||
5.10a | ★ KC's Banana Cake | 30m | ||||
5.9 | Monban no Musume | 13m | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Keroyon | 25m | ||||
Mon 1st Feb 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sunset | 9m, 3 | ||||
Short but sweet. Juggy first section leads to interesting crux - great pocket hold out right and looong reach for next holds. Will lead it next time.
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5.10a | ★ Abracadabra | 6m, 2 | ||||
My first 5.10 in the wild for a long time, but its only a few moves long, a highball boulder problem with 2 bolts. Nice climb for all that.
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Sat 30th Jan 2010 - Jo-yama | ||||||
Minami kabe | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Battlerunner | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A Joyama classic, excellent route. I led the easy pitches, my partner did the 5.10a crux and the last (somewhat runout) pitch.
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5.8 | ★ Homeboy | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun
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Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Nishimatazawa Taigan Chichi Iwa | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Ogawayama Story - with Tokyo Bill | 30m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fell off at the top, did it with a rest
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5.10a | ★★ Ogawayama Street - with Tokyo Bill | 26m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, thin & sustained, tough at the top.
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Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Yane Iwa Yane Iwa II | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Nanryu Kanagawa Route - with Naoya Suzuki, Steve Phillpott | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classic old-school climb high up over the valley and following the obvious line of weaknesses. Rock a little variable, but fine where it counts. Mostly trad placements, but with one bolted belay station and 3 or 4 bolts where it is hard to find pro. Great views & positions. I'd be happy to lead all pitches, but the 5.8 squeeze chimney would be a bit exciting as no pro inside for 6-7m, and its hard if you don't have good technique (I don't...)
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Sun 6th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Lower Slab | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Gamma Route | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Several versions of P1, and P2 & 3 only. ONe day would like to do the whole route.
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5.8 | ★ New Gamma 1 | 23m | ||||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 3 | 28m | ||||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 4 | 27m | ||||
5.8 | ★ New Gamma 5 | 27m | ||||
Wed 26th Aug 2009 - Railay | ||||||
Diamond Cave | ||||||
6a+ 7a | ★ Keep the Jam, Man (Keep the Jam Man p1) | 70m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't continue onto upper pitches as it was raining and they were wet, while the lower wall was dry - so only did the 5.9 section. Good clean fun
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Wed 26th Aug 2009 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
★★ Orientales | 27m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
this whole area is toprope hell - fun climbing, but overrun with climbing schools and guides
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6a | ★ Selee | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
fun climbing on good rock
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Showing all 44 ascents.