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Ascents in Asia by Alex Rogers

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Showing all 44 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Ton Sai
Fire Wall
16 6a The Groove Tube Sport 25m, 11 Classic
Most fun climb I've done for a long time. Aesthetically pleasing, great views, fun moves, huge megajugs where you want them, well protected, steep enough to be interesting, and much softer than its grade suggested. I struggled on a lot of Tonsai 6a's and this felt a lot easier.

 
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Ton Sai
The Nest & Wild Kingdom
6a Caroline's Last Day P1 Sport 22m, 9 Good
Quite a scary start - juggy, but overhanging and with ground fall potential on the second clip. I heard a new leader had fallen here a few weeks back and broke her ankles... focuses the mind. The rest of the climb up the tunnel is fun and well protected. The top pitch was soaking so we didn't do it - probably only dry in the dry season.

 
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay
One-Two-Three
5 Giggerig for Climbing Sport 12m, 4 Good
Would be more fun without the crowds. Pumpy start then easy.

 
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay
Diamond Cave
5 Kai Kad Sport 10m, 5 Good
nice positive well protected climb

 
5 Mot Daeng Sport 20m, 6 Good
Another good easy climb. Straight up and then veer right around the shield-shaped steep bit. Chock Dee goes to the left around the shield and is a little harder.

 
6a Chok Dee (Chock Dee) Sport 20m, 6 Very Good
Good climbing on clean well protected rock. Amazing limestone to climb on. Had a troop of mangrove monkeys join me on the climb - far bettter climbers than I'll ever be, they were both entertaining and discouraging as they free-solo downclimbed sections I could not get up!

 
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay
One-Two-Three
18 6b Massage Secrets Sport 37m, 13 Classic
second time I've done it, would be happy to do it each time I visit - as long as I can do it when there are no people there...

 
Wed 11th Aug 2010 - Railay
Diamond Cave
6a+ Mosquito Coil Sport 20m, 7 Good
Second time around, a year later.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Makoron Land
5.10a Shower Colon Sport 8m Good
Interesting and sometimes awkward climb. I used the tree at the top which makes it easier - next time I'll try without.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Cinderella face
5.8 Tom Sawyer Sport 20m
Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.

Descent Options: You could lower off a bunch of old manky tat attached precariously to rusty bolts and fraying ropes like I did - or pull your rope and step over to the top of Cinderella and lower off that. Anchors badly need replacing.

 
5.6 Pumpkin Coach Sport 15m
easy, good clean fun

 
5.7 Cinderella Sport 17m
Nice line, good fun.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Ali Baba area
5.10a 5.10a/b Anne Sport 10m, 4
Nice route, got the onsight but only just... steeper than it looks at the crux

 
5.10b Ali Baba Sport 10m, 3 Very Good
Short, steeper than it looks, with delicate fingery crux. Well protected so a good lead for new to the grade. Took one fall.

 
Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.7 Silk Road Sport 10m, 4 Good
Good intro to the area, it is a trade route and always crowded. Well protected, good for the new leader.

 
5.8 Inchiki Suruna (Don't Cheat) Sport 9m, 5 Good
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama
Karesawa Gamma Upper
5.7 Ultra 7 Sport 15m Good
5.8 Kawaii Onna Sport 18m Good
5.10b Hourouheki Sport 8m Don't Bother
Took three tries to get through this - one move wonder, but interestingly technical. Scary descent.

 
5.9 Ogawayama Short Story Sport 15m Don't Bother
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama
Nishimatazawa Taigan Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.8 Kawakami Kouta Sport 15m Very Good
5.8 Santao XXX Sport 15m Good
5.10b Regular Sport 25m Good
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama
Karesawa Gamma Face
5.10a Gamma Crack Trad 15m
backed off this - crux jam stripped skin off my hands

 
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama
Karesawa Gamma Slabs
5.9 Braveheart Sport 27m
5.10b Heart & Soul Sport 27m
5.10a KC's Banana Cake Sport 30m
5.9 Monban no Musume Sport 13m
5.7 Keroyon Sport 25m
Mon 1st Feb 2010 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.10a Sunset Sport 9m, 3
Short but sweet. Juggy first section leads to interesting crux - great pocket hold out right and looong reach for next holds. Will lead it next time.

 
5.10a Abracadabra Sport 6m, 2
My first 5.10 in the wild for a long time, but its only a few moves long, a highball boulder problem with 2 bolts. Nice climb for all that.

 
Sat 30th Jan 2010 - Jo-yama
Minami kabe
5.10a Battlerunner Sport 100m Classic
A Joyama classic, excellent route. I led the easy pitches, my partner did the 5.10a crux and the last (somewhat runout) pitch.

 
5.8 Homeboy Sport 20m, 7 Good
Good fun

 
Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama
Nishimatazawa Taigan Chichi Iwa
5.9 Ogawayama Story - with Tokyo Bill Sport 30m, 5 Mega Classic
Fell off at the top, did it with a rest

 
5.10a Ogawayama Street - with Tokyo Bill Sport 26m, 5 Very Good
Great climb, thin & sustained, tough at the top.

 
Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama
Yane Iwa Yane Iwa II
5.8 Nanryu Kanagawa Route - with Naoya Suzuki, Steve Phillpott Trad 150m Very Good
Classic old-school climb high up over the valley and following the obvious line of weaknesses. Rock a little variable, but fine where it counts. Mostly trad placements, but with one bolted belay station and 3 or 4 bolts where it is hard to find pro. Great views & positions. I'd be happy to lead all pitches, but the 5.8 squeeze chimney would be a bit exciting as no pro inside for 6-7m, and its hard if you don't have good technique (I don't...)

 
Sun 6th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama
Karesawa Gamma Lower Slab
5.9 Gamma Route Trad 120m Very Good
Several versions of P1, and P2 & 3 only. ONe day would like to do the whole route.

 
5.8 New Gamma 1 Sport 23m
5.9 New Gamma 3 Sport 28m
5.9 New Gamma 4 Sport 27m
5.8 New Gamma 5 Sport 27m
Wed 26th Aug 2009 - Railay
Diamond Cave
6a+ 7a Keep the Jam, Man (Keep the Jam Man p1) Sport 70m, 15 Good
Didn't continue onto upper pitches as it was raining and they were wet, while the lower wall was dry - so only did the 5.9 section. Good clean fun

 
Wed 26th Aug 2009 - Railay
One-Two-Three
Orientales Sport 27m, 12 Good
this whole area is toprope hell - fun climbing, but overrun with climbing schools and guides

 
6a Selee Sport 10m, 4 Good
fun climbing on good rock

 

Showing all 44 ascents.

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