Ascents in East of the access track by Douglas Hockly

The climbing is very nice, but there is very little gear, and the rock is not great where the gear is. A shame it's not bolted as it would be enjoyed by many.. if it was 27 it'd be bolted, but it's not cause it's 17.

The actual corner I found quite interesting and not too hard as I could bridge to the rib on the right wall, but the start (Condor) is not that great and Wendy traversed off to the chains above Mechanical Prune as there was a death block on the ledge...

Tried this without success. Now that the bolt has rusted there is even more reason to ignore it.

The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.

I really enjoyed this. Pretty tenuous in places. May be a safe lead these days with lots of micro cams, though I think you'd be on RPs at the start.

Decent alt start to LLL

I found the crux really desperate. The rest is good but shame about the ledges

Not great. Lots of ledges to hit and not the best rock

My first 24 flash, in about 89

I remember the V groove being desperate from 88... did it again last year and it was still desperate!

Good for a few moves but worryingly hollow

I spent ages trying this and John Pearson came and strolled up it.. never got up it.

Good for a bit at the start then a bit of a ramble. There are better routes.

Fun for a few moves

One #3RP if I remember right

Great route, sustained and interesting, definitely 21 for me.

There are many, many better routes than this here

Actually ok

Remember it being hard for the grade

Interesting climbing, shame about the ledge

Really great, spoilt a bit by the loose ramble to a tree

Pretty tough but gear is ok

omg. Thought I'd do this to get to Theory ledge. There's a groove that's totally composed of loose blocks. Shockingly awful, and dirty and dangerous and shit climbing - it's got it all...

I really liked this! Super interesting climbing with flared jams, shallow bridging, face climbing and a layback section to finish. Sustained and technical. Would be hard to place gear on lead. The undercling is fragile, don't break it or it'll get a lot harder! Second shot tr.

I thought this was good but a little disappointing as if you're tall (and remotely flexible) you can bridge to LLL.

This is quite an amazing route. The layback off the arete at the start is a really cool piece of climbing, and just so easy to fall off! The blank corner above had me baffled, I climbed the arete at about 27 but I imagine people bridge these things, I just couldn't concieve of it myself let alone do it. The top corner crack is superb but a little grubby as noone does it, but they should as the linkup with Inquisition is great at 23/4

Take big cams but no actual offwidthing

Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.

Shame about the ledge. Climbing to the ledge is ok, off the ledge is great. A very hard crux (that I couldn't do) leads to the top face crack that is amazingly awesome at about 26. I tried this briefly after I did BCT and it made BCT feel like walking down the street.

A good route with bad climbing? The start is great, and the rock is good the whole way, but the top is a really long increasingly desperate thrutch. Good to have done it once.

Great except for the tight awkward section in the middle. Well protected, actually takes a lot of midsize cams

Lovely climbing on the top wall, if you start up BST this feels like 24/5. I did TR the original start, which is quite hard but sadly not that great and has some dodgy rock.

A memorable tr after Wendy and I had ticked FT with a huge black storm rolling in at us off the range! Damn I fell off just when I thought I had it.

Had a go on TR ages ago. Very good but very hard!

Don't remember anything!

A really good route with a short section of proper offwidthing. I chicken winged and found it totally desperate but I imagine that there is better technique one could apply.

This is a great route! Good rock and no actual offwidthing despite appearances. More like 17 though.

I found this really hard at the top but I don't feel like I have good offwidth technique. Quite a good route apart from some scary loose bits.

Wow. Amazing climbing that is actually slightly slabby on the crux.

All I remember is really sore feet. Not really a fan of this one.

Interesting all the way. A bit broken by ledges but well worthwhile. The start is tricky and hard to protect - you can get a #6 Camalot in the flare to back up the other pieces if you have one.

Gets quite wide in the middle. The finish, though it looks ugly, is actually OK

Fantastic route. Second or third shot.

I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.

Not as awful as it looks, but the top has some big loose blocks that guarantee it's future unpopularity.

I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!

This really is great. The first bit of Inquisition is excellent, clean, interesting climbing. The top half of Catcher in the Rye is wonderful, jams and locks and quite sustained on excellent rock. It's a little dirty as nobody ever does it. Might be 24, certainly had Wendy and I pulling out all stops to get up it without coming off despite having TR'd it a few days ago.

Good at the start, I remember having a wobble up higher at a slabby bit and some hollow sounding rock.

I did this with Edwin as the first climb of our 'fruit themed route names day'. I remember pulling down half a cubic metre of leaf litter on myself and thinking 'we're going to do some really crap routes today and this is one of them'

Dirty, poor rock, poor gear, climbing is nothing special - what are you waiting for?

I thought this was pretty poor. The initial corner is really hard to protect and the upper corner feels loose and is a lot easier. There are way better routes here.

Not that memorable.

I'm not a fan of this one. Poor gear in the first 5m or so then tricky small wires and everything feels loose in the top section. There are way better routes, I think this one gets traffic because it's face climbing and looks better than it is.

Crappy.

Horrible climbing and very difficult to protect adequately. I'd never do it again.

I thought this was horrible from start to finish.

Nice.

Good but short

I remember this having a nice start, a large loose block at the roof, and then a steep gully filled with chockstones in the top half. I wouldn't do it again.

Good, but I wouldn't describe it as one of the best routes on the cliff. Nice climbing and rock with good gear but quite short.

Quite tough for the grade (how surprising) but good climbing and gear. I like this one.

A bit greasy. I'm not that taken with this one.

Staunch like many 16s at Frog!

A good and well protected route - unlike many of the 16's here!

Did this about 1990 over two days. It's got good climbing but some slightly creaky flakes. You'd be mad not to place the side runner in MP - it's very close and much better than the RP's in the seam.