Ascents in YKS Wall by Graham Dowden

Definitely not 18!

Had to take a rest

Crux involves very delicate traverse on smears - sport climbers will be bemused. Probably old Booroomba 18.

Previous harder project up middle of wall has been overritten by this waste of bolts, glue, coloured chalk! and time. If it makes you feel better to climb this line just toprope it.

Far from grade 20.

Would be a bad lead with poor pro. Very engaging topout.

Dogged away time and again like a canine with a favourite bone, including a pure no-hands stand, undercling pocket, super highstep, and a sloper pinch, if you please. Probably reached a new high point, but failed to reach fruition. Some slab puppy will lick it.

Had another look at the potential pro on the way up, including two new bomber Superlight Offset Rocks, and figured I wouldn't really want to fall on pieces 2 and 3 of 4. But who wants to fall anyway?

Now to link the blank section between the holdless bits.

Checking the pro, 4 cams possible should do.

Finallly clean to the top. Tough final moves over bulge.

Might go all the way with a bit more brushing and working.

Need massive faith in friction and considerable ingenuity for this one ..

Just can't make those phabulous phreaky phriction moves

Requires considerable ground-up faith to launch for key upper holds. Great stuff, but hard!

Lower-offs would absolutely kill the best bits of this climb. Thankfully never installed.

Attempted several times but never got past 3m until I realised the route description was wrong. Can't really use the crack at all.

Nice layback features.

Again to be sure. Exit mantle a bit tricky.

Directionally challenged attempt on "Nth Arete" ... after making the big move up the breaks to the half-way no-hands stance, was unable to proceed by natural means. That is, if "no-hands" excludes a 5x5mm quartz grain for the right and "security indentation" for the left. Key could be smearing on awful gritty slopes, growing an extra 15 cm, or a strong dyno from the ledge. Testing times for the non-slabber.

Crux is top mantel