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Ascents in The Gallery by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing all 17 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 9th May 2015 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
23 Chain of Fools Sport 15m Very Good
Repeat. One lap for trainingin hideous conditions. The final crux flake was a damn waterfall that just got wetter as the day went on. So juggy it seems improbable when you consider the steepness.

 
24 Two Tribes Sport 15m Classic
Repeat. 3 laps today. Working bloody hard today, with the two ball slopers in the steep bit wet, and the cruxy lip turn flake sopping... but still a rad steep pumper.

 
Mon 16th Feb 2015 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
23 Weaveworld Sport 25m Mega Classic
Repeat. Rest day lap for nostalgic value. Could be called a retro flash. Was good to get this classic clean again (and less stressed than my original onsight) despite remembering nothing. I climbed it very slow and methodically, but loved every move. The finale is beautiful.

 
Fri 13th Feb 2015 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
27 Chasin' the Shadow Sport 15m Classic
4 shots. Put it all together nicely and 4th shot in particular had some rad linkage at the start... then it all went downhill. Stoked to have the bouldery start dialled and linked, but I'm not sure I'll ever have the steep route endurance to tick this. Mega line.

 
24 Two Tribes Sport 15m Classic
Repeat. 2 laps to warm up for Chasin' the Shadow . Felt easier than last time, but its still pumpier than hell. Great climbing.

 
Fri 9th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
25 Hueco Dreaming Sport 9m Average
The wheels finally fell off. You can only climb so many days back to back before it all falls apart. Climbed to crux. Gave up, back-jumped and went home.

 
27 Chasin' the Shadow Sport 15m Classic
Exploratory lap. All the moves will go, but linking them... That's a pipe dream for the moment. Nails past the first bolt, then slowly getting easier until the final climactic moves to gain the lip. Pumpier than hell, with tricky footwork and a great deal of core/compression necessary to hold yourself into the wall. I see why this is so popular. One for another day, perhaps? Good send by JengA.

 
25 Mr Meat Sport 24m Very Good
One sequence on the sharp cruxy bouldery start completely stumped me... I think I'm just not strong enough or precise enough to link it at the moment. From the 2nd bolt to the top is pretty easy climbing, but with downright dangerous runouts on pretty average rock... Exciting exposure, though. It might be better just to finish up Weaveworld.

 
24 Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4 Very Good
2nd shot. Was cruising this on the onsight until I ended up on a red-herring chalked up-hold out left. Grrrr... Weird climbing with tricky footwork and positions, but I enjoyed it. Probably more 23, I think. Better rock than it looks.

 
Sun 4th May 2014 - Victoria Range
Buandik Area The Gallery
16 The Educator Sport 12m, 3 Average
Climbed as a super-contrived eliminate (using only the main face, and not touching the chimney or opposing wall), which felt about grade 21. A very average climb, with an unnecessarily high (and downright stupid) first bolt. The lowpoint of the day.

 
21 Azusi Sport 20m, 6 Good
Good position, but average rock and the REBOLT has moved the bolts a few metres RIGHT of the original line. Climbing the bolts (and the non-contrived line) is now only about 19. Far from the best line at THIS magnificent crag.

 
25 Hueco Dreaming Sport 9m Average
2 shots. Definately soft, but that doesn't mean I managed to put it together on link. Okay climbing to a strenous finish and final bouldery move. Its hard to justify giving something like this a 3 (or more) shots when you consider what ELSE is at The Gallery.

 
23 Chain of Fools Sport 15m Very Good
Placing most of the draws. More steep pocket-pulling. Much like Two Tribes, but without any hard move (hence the lower grade). Still very good, but not at the quality of its neighbours.

 
24 Two Tribes Sport 15m Classic
2nd shot. Had to skip the last clip to battle the pump. Straightforward but enjoyable thugging through ridiculous steepness to the final climactic finish. Who knew I could enjoy steep climbing?

 
23 Weaveworld Sport 25m Mega Classic
Stunning introduction to the Grampians. A little bit of every style and a dose of exposure (and moderate runouts) to keep it interesting. It was everything I'd been led to expect and more.

 
22 Going Blank Again Sport 17m, 6 Good
Interesting weirdness with a delicate crux start. Perhaps a bit soft at the grade. An obscurely unique line in a cave of steep predictability. I liked it. Longer than it looks.

 
22 The Perfect Crime Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Great climbing up a super-obvious line. Tough at the geade. Until you gain the arete the powerful, bouldery, fridge-hugging start keeps you breathing hard. From the arete to the top is a pleasant doddle to soak in the views.

 

Showing all 17 ascents.

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