Ascents in Ti Point by Sam Lancaster

Some how managed to Z clip the first two bolts (so close together) so wasted energy there. Had a good fight getting to the 3rd bolt clipped and trying to pull the crux but peeled off. Keen to have another burn on it.

Quite surprised to onsight this, probably about 21 cause of my height. Pretty physical going up from the ledge, my height / reach was definitely advantageous.

What Shaun mistakenly read from the guide as a nice 15 warm up was this haha. Wasn't feeling particularly inspired for trad but seeing Shaun climb this convinced me too. What a way to warm up to leading again after 2 months away from rock! Lots of flaring cracks so offset nuts were very useful. Seems easy for the grade but may have gone slightly off route, hard to tell. A small offset cam would have been nice for the crux! Didn't use any of the bolts.

Repeat. Really like this climb, offset brass nuts are very useful as most of the cracks flare a lot, bit hard to protect well otherwise imo. I would say its a 19 climbed the way I do going just to the right at the crux (but still using thin crack). I can see how going directly up the crack would be much harder.

Repeat. Maybe hard 18? Not sure.

Was going alright till my foot slipt before the mantle. Got the top half clean after the fall. Lots of insecure feeling smeary feet and enjoyable technical moves. Perhaps my favourite Ti point sport climb to date? I'll be back to work on the red point.

Last climb of the day, had one go with the throw fell and gave up for the day.

Repeat, great climb

Brilliant climb, great balancy moves. Would have given it another burn but got rained out!

Very nice climb! Stoked to get it first try today, flowed much smoother than my last attempt.

There is a swallows nest halfway? up on the right (perhaps off route, I didn't go there).

Great climb, repeat

Sweet climb, good gear. Took on gear at the crux and retreated as my head game just wasn't there. Will revist..

Fall onto the 1st bolt and the 4th. Kinda tricky climbing but nice. Variation with some jams to start, some jugs, some sloppers, and some smaller holds. I had a nasty fall on the 4th bolt where I was a bit negligent with where the rope was and consequently when I peeled off got flipped upside down with the rope wrapped around my lower leg.. yay for solid bruising and a sore leg! That was the days climbing cut short. I will be back!

Had a fall on the first go.. (went the wrong way I think) fun warm up. Clean 2nd go.

Some engaging bridging followed by some tricky moves on the face.

Repeat, went easier way for warm up.

Repeat, pleasant climbing

Repeat

Repeat.

Pleasant climbing with some slopey holds, be careful at the bottom runout- easy ground but you wouldn't want to fall.

Quite short, not 15m at all.

Fun route, felt pretty cruxy for my lockdown muscles haha!

Repeat. Good fun.

Repeat, fun moves around the fang. Bit soft for the grade?

Repeat, nice climb

Repeat, soft for the grade

Repeat

Repeat, soft

Repeat

Repeat, easier than The Angel of Calcutta IMO.

What an experience! I finally got on this at around high tide when the combo of waves crashn and strong wind were threatening to drench my belayer (thanks Donovan) and added some motivation for me to get off the ground quickly! Not sure on the grade.. I'm not that good at jamming (as I suspect the majority who try lead this, why doesn't NZ have more cracks!) but getting better so tricky to know, not that it really matters. The sandbag of 16 feels kinda appropriate. Could have easily lost the flash as my arms got a bit pumped around mid height but I managed to keep it together, stoked on that.

Tricky crux for the grade.

Repeat

Repeat

Would have been good when this was rebolted to have more than 1 bolt for new lead climbers..

Repeat

Quite enjoyable climbing. Bit of a sandbag imo especially if short for the start.

Repeat to clean top rope anchor. Much more enjoyable in rock shoes rather than approach shoes haha, stiff for the grade.

Repeat.

Repeat to clean top rope. Quite pleasant climbing, fun juggy top out to anchor.