Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.
Lives up to the hype, and now takes first place for best gear route I’ve done. The movement, the position, the gear, the rock. It’s all perfect (1st pitch only, T&Cs apply).
Seth took the lead so that I wasn’t tempted to push myself on the injured finger, but I think I almost preferred the toprope lap (please don’t hold it against me). It meant that I could just cruise up the perfect line, enjoying the movement without having to think about what might come next, and without stopping constantly for gear.
There’s no way it goes at 24, and I think it might also go entirely on passive gear, so might give it a crack next time I’m out here. Top pitch was absolutely drippingly soaked, so we topped out on the bolted line adjacent (also wet).
What a fucking route. The 24 pitch only - mega well protected climbing the whole way! Way excellent and pretty stoked for the onsight (if you don't count not being blindfolded for the abseil in).
If you're looking for beta - it's not that hard. Plenty of bridging - my right calf was pretty pumped half way up. I took the full suggested rack plus 15 draws. I was left with 12 draws, almost all my nuts, and a single each of 0.3 to 2 by the anchor. Take a couple of sling draws, a couple of regular draws and leave the rest at home.
- with
Aaron Jones
