Ascents of Live Rust (direct finish) as trad

A good test-piece at the grade. I found the bottom to be the crux (I'm tall & it felt really "squishy". slippery jams through the bottom make for a palm-sweating good time : )

Can't believe I waited so long to do this route! Absolute beauty. 10b is very soft, though. With good jamming I think 5.9 is appropriate. Maybe Bogie 10a max.

Set up top rope rappel from eagles nest. Accidentally started route 46, going up and slightly left, didn't like the potential swing, so traversed right to join actual route. I loved the technical crack handholds and found the footwork surprisingly difficult for the flash climb and needed a couple slight rope rests (on rock). Felt good to finish it. Next time I'll try both versions "normally".

Thanks Andy Sparks for scrubbing this down so I could take a burn on it. Super nice line, not sure why I haven’t done it before. That old school 5.9 grade might need an update though, feels 5.10 for sure when compared to other 5.10a trad lines in the area.

Takes medium cams at bottom crack, bring No.4 for the bottom, dirty crack but really really fun fist jams to crux with shallow flaring crack section, stay on the left slanting obvious crack to the finish. Probably the best crack in the crag.