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Routes as trad in Bluff Minor

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Showing all 7 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
11 Bluff Minor

From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (10) Steep to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (6) Up to the summit. Rap off a slung boulder on the summit into the gap between Bluff Minor and Bluff Major.

FA: Rob Taylor & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 55m, 3
21 X Violent Crumble

Start 2m R of the north arete of Bluff Minor (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major). Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Trad 15m
R Boston's Climb

Start on top of Bluff Minor. Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of Bluff Major, with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

FA: Peter Jackson & 1960s, 2000

Trad 30m
7 Mouse

Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot. Chimney out above the Keyhole towards Central Gully, then move around arete onto the south face of Bluff Minor, which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 45m
22 Locksmith

Start 5m R of Bulger DS.

  1. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R.

  2. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge.

  3. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of Bluff Minor.

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

Trad 42m, 3
22 Raison d'Etrier

Start on the ledge R of Locksmith (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

  1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

  2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

Trad 30m, 2
22 Dead and Buried

Start just R of Rd'E, as for Vixen pitch 2.

  1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of Vixen then move L to belay.

  2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb, 1981

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris SHepherd, 1982

Trad 30m, 2

Showing all 7 routes.

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