Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
PB Gully | |||||
17 | Black Legend
Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary. FA: Glen Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1987 | 20m | |||
10 | Eddie Mabo
Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall. FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos, Kieran Loughran & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018 | 25m | |||
11 | Banjo Opera
Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic. FA: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018 | 25m | |||
12 | Is The Pope a Catholic
Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack. FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987 | 15m | |||
16 | Papal Bull
Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic. FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018 | 25m | |||
14 | Journey to the Centre of the Earth
Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil. Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 14 Sep 2018 | 30m | |||
15 | The Land That Time Forgot
One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Approach by abseil. Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall. Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005 | 35m | |||
25 | Temporary Imbalance
Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing. FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Blockade
Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout. Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25. Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 30m | |||
Blockade DS
Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves. | 20m, 1 | ||||
24 | ★★ Impasse
Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 20m | |||
25 R | ★★ Flattered and Slightly Curious
Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too. The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected. FA: Ben Wiessner, Douglas Hockly & Jack Jane, Oct 2015 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ PB
The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux. Rings above this also service Tangent. FA: Tim Beaman, 1976 | 23m | |||
23 R | ★★ PB Direct Start
Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB FA: Mark Moorhead | 25m | |||
25 | ★ PB Direct Finish
How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves. FA: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989 | 23m | |||
25 | ★★ Heavy Horses
Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 25m | |||
24 | Angles Up
Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Tangent
Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 | Self Contradictory
Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up. FA: Kim Carrigan & Nick Plishko, 1982 | 20m | |||
Vandal Area | |||||
14 | The Viragoes
Has a few good sections. Takes left arete, starting at little shallow corner on right, then slab to orange crack, to cave, finishing on jugs. FA: Louise Shepherd & Heather Phillips, 1992 | 50m | |||
23 | ★ Nature's Trip
1
23
20m
2
23
15m
'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area. The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".
Set: muki woods FFA: Robert Mudie & muki woods FA: Robert Mudie, muki woods, Ben Sheppard & Patrick McGovern, 3 Sep 2017 | 35m, 2, 4 | |||
24 | ★ The Verge
Start just up right of The Viragoes. Straight up and through thin crack in bulge, move right into large, guano-stained, V-scoop. Bridge up scoop to roof, past FH, swing left along lip and up short crack. FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young & Mark Moorhead., 1979 | 20m, 1 | |||
15 | The Vagabond
Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country. The traverse on the first pitch is nice but poorly protected.
FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 1965 | 82m, 4 | |||
17 | Big Silver Rocket
Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn? Start: 3m Right of the Verge. FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham Deb Churches & Mark Witham Deb Churches | 20m | |||
16 | Where's Merilyn?
Start: 4m right of big silver rocket
FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches & Deb Churches | 85m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender
A pretty good route but escapable in parts. Begin just left of the big tree.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983 | 60m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Comb-over
Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge. FA: Glenn Tempest & Rebecca Hopkins, Nov 2014 | 25m, 2 | |||
17 | Assistance Required Direct Start
Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Assistance Required
Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner. Go up wall to scoop; left here and up. FA: Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★ Puzzlin' Evidence
Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Vandal
Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK. The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now. Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman & David Shirra., 1977 | 45m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Another Route
Another inspiring route name.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 30m, 2 | |||
17 | Swallows and Amazons
Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early. Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1983 | 65m | |||
Intrepid Gully | |||||
23 | ★ Angry Penguins
Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall. FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ A Shorter History of Women's Bodies
Start 2 metres right of Angry Penguins, up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up. Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains. FA: Louise, Lincoln Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988 | 22m | |||
24 | ★ Epic Demic
Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement. Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs. FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981 | 22m | |||
25 | ★ Cliff Richards
Wall right of Epic Demic past bolts. Continue up Down And Out or traverse off either way. FA: Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1988 | 15m, 2 | |||
17 | A Step in the Right Direction
A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail. Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully. Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains (or use Leasehold's chains). FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1992 | 20m | |||
11 | ★ Intrepid
Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams. FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967 | 18m | |||
21 R | Fourteen Days in May
Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of Intrepid past 2 bolts. FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988 | 18m, 2 | |||
21 R | Pick and Lose
Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile. Up the wall 3 metres right of Intrepid to break. Go over bulge at small, left-curving crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 | Believe You Me
Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose. FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Opening
Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy. Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner. FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 | Hard Snort
Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top. FA: Lincoln, Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Phil Bigg, 1988 | 20m, 1 | |||
Leasehold Wall | |||||
16 | Leasehold
Start at the left hand end of the wall, about 6-8m R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully. Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak. Rap chains. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 22m | |||
25 | Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour
Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss. Start right of Leasehold at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of Fade Out.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 30m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Fade Out
A good little roof leads to an interesting wall. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979 | 35m | |||
21 | All in Vein
A filler roof problem. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 35m | |||
20 | ★ Friends in High Places
Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m. Original route wandered off left before roof but DF is much better. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 35m | |||
20 | ★ Bhutan/High Place DF
Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2015 | ||||
19 | Bhutan
Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP. FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher, 1984 | 35m | |||
15 | Totally Stoned
The major crack-line 5 metres right of All In Vein offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush. This crack is the same one climbed by Intrepid but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to Intrepid! FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1973 | 36m | |||
14 | ★ Anchors Away
Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from Totally Stoned but should be started direct, as described. FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983 | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Sandbag Of The Century
The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away. Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2011 | 30m | |||
19 | ★ Bitterblue
Scramble onto the ledge to start this route, which takes the steep weakness found about halfway along the ledge. Reassure yourself that the numerous rock scars at the start of the route indicate that all the loose rock has been removed by earlier parties. The rock quality soon improves, and the route maintains interest for most of its length. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 25m | |||
20 | Fretwork
Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Anchorman's Delight
Crack and wall right of Fretwork. Not too bad but has a few dirty holds. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 30m | |||
19 | Humbug
Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 30m | |||
19 | ★ GoatyMcGoatface
Start up Humbug, go straight through the excesses of the crack until it eases into the rest below Infinity's corner. Up this, step right off ledge and up steep wall. FA: Wendy Eden & Jess McMahon, 24 May 2016 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Infinity
It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start as for Humbug. Follow roof around right into low angle terrain then up obvious corner to ledge and up wall on left. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 45m | |||
18 | ★ The First Affinity
Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepher, 1979 | 24m | |||
21 | Cognitive Dissonance
Pump-action. Worthwhile. Start as for The First Affinity. FA: Jon Bassindale & Deb Sweet, 1999 | 30m | |||
Hum Terrace | |||||
18 | ★ Over and Out
A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer. FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie & Marcus Wallaby., 1988 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Jugs and Fun
From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 22m | |||
20 | ★★ Down and Out
Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall. FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979 | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Mark and Craig
A few more repeats might help clear up the route description. Option 1: From halfway along the Down And Out traverse, go up through bulges on tiny edges (and no gear?), to prominent flake. Option 2: Traverse a quarter of the Down And Out traverse, then go up via thin seams and decent gear, before spanning a metre left to gain the prominent flake. Follow the glory jugs to the Down And Out anchor (found tucked around the corner). FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 24m | |||
17 | Lord of the Rings Variant Start
Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2014 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Kansas City Direct Finish
Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short. FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Waddy Mackenzie
Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up. FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish
Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2014 | 18m | |||
21 | ★ Four Spooner
Start 8m R of Kansas City Direct Finish. Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top. FA: Peter Newman & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Nihilism
One very long move on nice rock. FA: Douglas Hockly, Kate Finnerty & Callum Dougal | 18m | |||
15 | Heavy Breathing
Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang. FA: Keith Lockwood & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Heartless Heart
? repeat of Heavy Breathing. 1.5 metres left of Heavy Petting. FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991 | 20m | |||
15 | Heavy Petting
Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined. Start 3 metres left of Menagerie. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983 | 20m | |||
9 | ★ Munchkin
Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting). FA: Unknown, 2000 | 20m | |||
9 | ★ Menagerie
Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ High Sigh
Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Craig Nottle, 1983 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity
Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 22m | |||
17 | ★ Dinger
Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish. FA: Mark Wood & Eddy Mofadin, 30 Dec 2014 | 22m | |||
18 R | ★ Dinger direct start
Straight up to the break with not enough gear. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2011 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Hum
An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity. FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman & Lyle Closs, 1977 | 30m | |||
24 | ★ Jug City
In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988 | 13m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ High Kicks
Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981 | 13m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Starlets in Tow
Desperate start. Start 3m R of High Kicks. FA: Mike Law & Charlie Creese, 1981 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Stormalong
Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1977 | 32m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Afternoon Cloud
A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.
FA: Jon Muir & Tony Dignan, 1985 | 35m, 2 | |||
25 | Krakatoa
FFA: Kevin Lindorff | 30m, 5 | |||
24 R | ★★ Morning Thunder
A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979 | 30m, 2 | |||
25 X | ★★ Sufficiently Alarming
Very serious route up the Morning Thunder wall (although the addition of extra bolts to the second pitch has helped tame that part).
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 35m, 2, 3 | |||
12 | From the Ridiculous to the Sublime
Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack. FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | |||
18 | Up in Arms
Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres. FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Sole Sister
Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up. FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & Martin Lama, 1991 | 12m | |||
Lower Curtain Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Dante's Inferno
Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, 1966 | 70m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Tinsel Town
Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno. Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants. FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 15m, 3 | |||
23 X | Shaky Town
Very poor protection. Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake. FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 15m | |||
18 R | Racey
Nice but a bit bold. Bold groove 2 metres right of pitch 2 Dante's Inferno. FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 15m | |||
21 | Bog On Up
Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 15m | |||
16 R | Censorship
Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes. Take the major corner 7 metres right of Racey. Climb directly past the huge apparently detached block in the overhang and continue up. The original finish to Day Of Rest starts up this pitch and traverses right below the overhang. FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd & Rod Young, 1979 | 15m | |||
15 R | ★ The Joker
The arete left of Sideshow, another good approach to the second pitch of 'Dante's Inferno'[442373157]. FA: Clive Curson, 1998 | 25m, 1 |