Routes as trad in Beechworth Area

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

The arete that forms the right edge of the chimney to the left of Rhinocerous Breath

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

Climb the thin crack left of Breakfast At The Ponderosa on natural gear to a bolt near the top.

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

Excellent and somewhat sustained climbing on the obvious half-height horizontal flake. At the end of the flake, head left for a couple of moves (crux - take RPs), then straight up into dyke city. 1 BR.

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

Start as for Rocky Road. Follow the leftward crack to the top on bad gear.

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

Aptly named. On the next separate cliff-line is a black slab capped by a big flattish boulder. This route starts on the right-hand end at all the edges and just left of the chossy chimney. 3 BRs lead to a crack (#1 SLCD) in the overhang, pull through this and head on up.

The crack 2m right of straight up, which angles slightly right. Jamming from thin hands to fist up higher. Start 1m left of fused crack on jug, then up to diagonal crack for pro. Anchors at top for lower off.

The first bolted route. Up the black wall past a FH to big jugs at 4m. Wander up and left placing whatever gear you can find, just don't fall at the top!

Horrible. The major ugly looking crack. A lot harder than it looks and not recommended.

Another awful route. Start up flake/crack that joins The Venus Fly Trap at about 4m. Up as for The Venus Fly Trap. Also not recommended.

Not recommended. The first crack around the corner from Bobbin.

The next crack right of Crack One.

The finger crack to the huge horizontal slot and roof, continue up the headwall. Gear was pre-paced above the roof on the FFA.

Towards the L end of the wall there is a crack which ends at about half height. Up this and then continue on up the slab.

Channel your inner chough as you clear leaf litter from the back of this crack to find great cam placements, and maybe the buried treasure of hexes that fit a bit too perfectly.

Easy beginner trad for learning to place and clean cams, with the odd hex placement. Follow the large crack splitting the wall up to the tree.

Mixed trad starting in the crack chimney to the left of sticky date and joining at the 3rd bolt of sticky date with an obvious step across. Nice stances in the crack feature.

Follow crack up until bolts travel to the right and up to 2BB.

Follow the crack all the way past a thrutchy crux. Take 2 hangers for the anchor.

The first route as you walk down. Climb the face left of the arete to the horizontal crack. Swing right on the face above the slab and up to the top. Has 5 BRs or so, take a few small cams as well.

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

To the R of On The Edge is a beautiful clean finger crack. Climb this to the ledge and then boldly mount the face above.

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

Bridge the crack and slip up the arete past 2 BRs.

4m right of Bridge Work is a clean curving crack.

Has a nice committing crux that has seen more than one fall! On the next tier below the climbs described above, is a cracked face topped by a bulge. Climb the broken crack system and clip a BR before pulling the root-bulge.

The first closed corner you come across. A hard start leads to good pockets and good gear. Avoid the chossy direct finish by moving left over the slab at the end of the corner to join The Tourist Route.

The obvious big layback flake. Fun laybacking leads to a pleasant doddle up the slab (1 FH). Don't fall while clipping.

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

Climb the hand-crack on the back of the boulder, then pull past some thin moves protected by a FH.

The left corner/roof.

The crack 1m right of Danish Crack. Up the left side of the top block which may be loose.

3m right of Geranium Crack. The widening to off-width crack.

Arete left of Spoonerism.

Opposite Talon. Arete and face.

The crack/corner, exiting over the top of the talon.

Overhanging off-width crack to the right of Thomas Flares.

Small pro in crack line to the right of the off-width crack. Go left of centre.

The fist-crack left of the blunt arete, then mantle the flake and up.

The crack around right of Comic Relief.

Small seam right of G String. Bad pro to start leading to nice flakes.

The right end of the face, trending right past a FH to a horizontal (pro). Then go left to the steep finger crack and up.

Left side of face. Thin crack to off-balance ledge, stem to gain small alcove and a couple of jams to exit.

Solid for the grade. Up the wall a couple of metres left of Grendel past two BRs. Small cam protects the finish.

The obvious corner crack which takes great protection.

20m downhill and left (SW) of Western Exposure is an obvious crack line.

Wires plus 1 BR. The right hand route.

At small gum tree go straight up finger crack.

Arete right of Sister Crack. Up to horizontal, then crux moves to clip the only BR.

The hard one. 2 BRs plus wires.

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

Start at bottom of block. Up vertical broken crack to fist jam, over ledge and follow line to horizontal. Go left and up.

Right of Matinee. The 75 degree left-leaning finger-crack (which is of excellent quality). Surmount ledge, move right, and step down slightly for thin moves up arete. According to the guidebook this had a bolt but there's no sign of it now.

The obvious weakness on the left arete. No real protection.

Hard and dangerous. Crank up on a few good holds (RB) to stance on right. Take a deep breath and traverse left (crux - fiddly RPs) to seam/gastons. Keep going left and up until you hit the top.

Stunning crack, both in appearance and difficulty!

Flake system on high side of green chasm. Worthwhile.

Left of Scooter. From under overhang, move to arete, onto face and up.

Start as for Shadowline to first BR, out to second BR and continue up arete past 3rd BR. Small wires at the end (BD nuts size 2-3).