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Camerons Crest

14

Seasonality

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Description

Descent gully right of Penney Ante. From the top scramble down short wall into the gully, then two choices:

  1. Stroll down the right branch - facing out - to Penney Ante and The Allied Chemical News or,

  2. Walk down the left branch into Stateline Gully.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Cosmic County

The access situation to Cosmic County has changed several times over the years. It is very important that climbers use the access track which stays on the eastern side of the Buddhist Monks' Retreat (9 Donald Rd). (In particular both the road down through the Retreat (now overgrown), and the railway easement (now gated, usually locked), must NOT be used under any circumstances). Despite these changes, it is still only a 20-25 minutes walk into the first few sectors, and 30-35 minutes back out.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Not very good!

Start: Uphill and about 15m right of 'Penney Ante'. Obvious crack on the leftwall of the gully.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Boulder start followed by a chimney and finish with a cruisy top out. Climbs better than it looks. Rap down from tree. 10m right of IR.

FA: Brendon Flanagan & Phuong Ho, 3 Apr 2021

From the start of the scramble to Thailand Taxi Driver, follow the base of the block towards the gully entrance. Evident short crack. Tree belay.

FA: Marty Middlebrook & Brendon Flanagan, 18 Dec 2021

Up to FH as per The Allied Chemical News then head left towards the arete and up.

FA: J. Anderson, 2004

Most people skip the average first pitch and walk up the gully to the left to gain the ledge. Start 29m right of 'Penney Ante'. 1) Arete and slab below short compact wall. Up to big bush ledge. 2). Move up R off the ledge to take the left side of the wall, a few metres right of the arete, following a subtle scoop line past 3 bolts (brackets required).

FA: A.Penney & G.Dowden, 1980

Up corner briefly, right to flake, up and right at finish.

Start: 2m right of TACN.

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1981

Soloed!

Start: 2m right again. take care.

FA: S.Camps, 1984

The music, the music...

Start: 10m right of RS.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Weigand, 1981

"A most pleasant route".

Start: 5m right. Orange rock beneath overhang.

FA: G.Dowden & P.Martland, 1979

Start marked SRCR!

Start: 1m right of A on wall.

FA: K.Seddon, T.Seddon & P.Walton, 1979

"You dont get any fancy overheads...first 10m is horrid but things improve as you get higher."

Start: 3m right of TT. Below wide undercut and mank!

FA: A.Penney & R.Nelson, 1980

hard start to corner to ledge, finish up B&C or 'Green Chimney'.

Start: 5m right again.

FA: W.Williams & L.Williams, 1982

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 27 Apr
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