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Hip Shake Jerk Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ben Jenga Kyle Dunsire Dave T David O'Donnell Peter Webster gavin portier Doug Jason Lammers Campbell Gome

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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F
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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.637461, 150.274149

description

A small steep wall with plenty of sun in winter and protected from wind.

access issues

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

approach

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering Centennial Glen from Centennial Glen Rd. It's directly across the canyon from Wave Wall.

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clutching at Draws

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.

FA: Gavin Portier

23 Unknown 12m
2 Back Hand Tosser

Keep off the 'Arete'.

23 Sport 12m
3 Better than a Wank

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser' and finish as for "Hip Shake Jerk' Apparently you have to avoid the chip to earn the grade.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

26 Sport 15m
4 Einstuevzende Neubautch

A great piece of climbing which, apart from the avoidable final chip on HSJ, is all natural since the original start chips were repaired in the 90s. Batman to first bolt then great bouldery moves lead over the hollow block into continuous climbing which trends L to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 1989

26 Sport 15m, 6
5 Hip Shake Jerk

Start on the left side of the wall behind the small tree. Climb (don't batman) to first bolt then pull on it (or dyno past it at grade 26). Trend R up jugs to big slot, then trend R over the roof to nice short headwall.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

25 M0 Sport 15m, 5
6 Wank Wank Spurt

Start as for HSJ to the halfway slot. Now trend L over roof.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

24 M0 Sport 15m
7 Wank Wank Spurt Direct

The all free version, if you didn't pull on the 1st bolt.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

26 Sport 15m
8 Gaff

Batman start to jug above first bolt, then take the leftmost line through steep terrain. Start from ground with dyno still gets 26.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 7 Apr

23 M0 Sport 16m
9 Wallace Fairweather

Start about 40m L of HSJ. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation, and batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25 Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Rollergirl

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nest at first bolt

Start about 10m L of WF. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation (same as Jug Addiction). Trend R.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23 Sport 17m
11 Jug Addiction

Start about 10m L of WF. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation (same as Rollergirl) then trend L.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24 Sport 15m
12 Turn Your Money Green

Start about 5m L of JA, just R of the hanging prow. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation, and batman. You actually get a grade for the batman! Excellent - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

FA: Mitch Warren

25 Sport 15m
13 Limp Mode

Start about 5m L of TYMG, L of the hanging prow. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation, and batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998

26 Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
23 Back Hand Tosser Sport 12m
Clutching at Draws Unknown 12m
Rollergirl Sport 17m
23 M0 Gaff Sport 16m
24 Jug Addiction Sport 15m
24 M0 Wank Wank Spurt Sport 15m
25 Turn Your Money Green Sport 15m
Wallace Fairweather Sport 12m
25 M0 Hip Shake Jerk Sport 15m, 5
26 Better than a Wank Sport 15m
Einstuevzende Neubautch Sport 15m, 6
Limp Mode Sport 15m
Wank Wank Spurt Direct Sport 15m
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