Showing all 99 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
East Faces Subliminal Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminated
Slightly harder (especially if you are short) and even more exposed version of the original Subliminal. Maybe even better than the original?
FA: Heath Black, Wade Stewart & aaron jones, 3 Apr 2016 | 110m | |||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal
It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.
If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s. FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Jason Lammers, 2011 | 92m, 3, 33 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sabbatical
A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners). P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts. P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts. P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3. Set: Paul Frothy Thomson, 20 Sep 2016 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Glen Thomson, 28 Sep 2016 | 80m, 3, 20 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sojourn
A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade! P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave. P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2. P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3. Set: Paul Frothy Thomson, 6 Dec 2015 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 25 Oct 2016 | 80m, 3, 18 | |||
25 | ★★ Swansong
A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route. Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay. If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Heath Black, 30 Oct 2016 | 25m, 10 | |||
21 | ★★ Castaway
Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2011 | 65m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Unconscious Corner
Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Gene, 2 Jan 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
East Faces New World Order | |||||
25 | ★★★ The Post Truth Era
Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws. FA: Heath Black, Paul Frothy Thomson & Jason McCarthy, 7 Jan 2017 | 30m, 13 | |||
24 | ★★ Wrath of Froth
1
24
25m
2
18
17m
3
22
17m
I know routes, I have the best routes. Rap in, climb out mini-multi with a similar feel to nearby Subliminal. Brilliant first pitch, average 2nd pitch, good finish pitch. Fix a 70m rope to tree at top of wall and rap over edge (rope protector advised). Rap all the way to end of rope and double bolt belay on left end of small ledge below prominent orange arete. You may want to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay attached to the wall. Bring 15 draws and a few slings for belays.
FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 19 Nov 2016 | 59m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Trumpeter
So much winning. Orange face to the right of pitch 1 of Wrath of Froth sharing same start belay anchors.
FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 19 Nov 2016 | 58m, 3 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Shady Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Consumer Eve
The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets (avoiding the tree) then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts. Possible (and nice) to continue up p2 of Sundial in one big pitch. FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law, 2010 | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | ★ Shady Lady
Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.
FA: Josh Dodson (pitch 1) FA: Jason Lammers (pitch 2), 2010 | 32m, 2, 15 | |||
24 | ★ Haterade
Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high. FA: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 18m, 8 | |||
25 | ★ Mystery Route
Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point! Set: Josh Dobson | 20m | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Andy's Area | |||||
22 | ★ Rain, Hail and Shine
Start off block traversing right then up on killer holds and cool moves FA: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 13m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Ignorance is Bliss
Start on flake, up past 2 bolts the right on rad pockets and up thin headwall. FA: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 12m, 8 | |||
22 | ★ Knowledge is Power
Start on flake then straight up. FA: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 10m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ There's a Tear in There
Start up slab the onto black arête and up. FA: Andy Richardson, 2012 | 10m, 8 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector | |||||
20 | ★★ Choc Chip Chai
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Culhane, 2009 | 15m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Vlad the Invader
Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag. FA: Heath Black & Millie Malfroy, 23 Mar 2022 | 17m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Little Jug of Happiness
1
18
25m
2
21
20m
3
12
20m
A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.
FA: Brian Burford & Adam Darragh (pitch 2 - ground up on trad), 2000 FA: Mikl, Vanessa Peterson, Neil Monteith (pitch 1 & 3), 2012 | 65m, 3 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | |||||
22 | ★ The Draw Thief
Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall. FFA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2010 | 20m, 11 | |||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity
Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 22m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ The Cramps
Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit. FA: N Monteith, 2009 | 22m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Missing Link (Link-Up)
Links the low crux section of The Cramps into the crux section of On the Wagon via the short, closed flake. Good value! This link-up was done as follows, without any new rings: Start as for The Cramps and continue up to clip its 4th ring with a long draw. Step up and left to layaway off flake, reaching left to clip the 3rd ring of On the Wagon (OTW). Climb to the top of the flake to clip the 4th ring of OTW, then reach down and unclip 3rd ring of OTW to prevent rope drag. Continue up OTW to its anchors. FA: A. Simson & M. Franklin, 2019 | 22m | |||
23 | ★ On the Wagon
Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 22m | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★ Cynics United
Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.
FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 82m, 5 | |||
21 | I Don't Climb Wigglies
Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad. FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 17m, 9 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | |||||
19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts
A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years
Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far. FA: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 15m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Flash Flood
Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow, that is now a touch harder since a key hold fell off. The start of this route is shared with the next three routes as well. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ Stereo
A bit squeezed in but has some great sustained climbing. Same start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then take the next line of bolts to the left. Easily to small cave then punch out a committing move above it. Nice climbing to the top, staying just left of arête. FA: Jason Lammers & Dan Mackey, 2012 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus
Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts. FFA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 25m, 10 | |||
22 | ★★ La Niña
Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 25m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ A Nice Day for a Disco
This is not a full route, but confusingly an optional harder start to the previous couple of routes. Starts 2m left of Flash Flood at right side of overhung/cave. There is a hard/awkward move at the 3rd bolt before it links into the other routes. Direct start links into LN, TV, S, or FF. 25m indicated height includes these 4 routes. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 25m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Driven
Some funky moves and a great example of Bundy's creative vision to squeeze in another route! Up groove behind small tree. Swing through the roof and onto the face. Left, up and then back to the right crossing Middle Finger and on to orange headwall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Taxi Driver
Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 20m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★ Swinging In The Rain
Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag. FFA: Ben JengA, 2012 | 20m, 13 | |||
25 | ★ Windtalker
As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall. FA: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 20m, 12 | |||
25 | ★ Digitalicious
Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall. FFA: Ben JengA, 2012 | 20m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★ Binary Neil
Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish. FA: Neil Monteith, Chris Coghill, Steve G, Rich Sonnerdale & Will Monks, 2012 | 25m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★ Chalk Chops
Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out. Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention. FA: Steve Grkovic, Jun 2014 | 25m | |||
24 | ★ Survival Day
Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23, especially if you are tall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ Socially Inept
First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first! FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2012 | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Please Dry
Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Whimsical
The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 12m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Rock Snob
Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 Set: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 12m, 4 | |||
25 | ★ Thunderstruck
2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.
FA: Chris Coghill & Will Monks, 2012 | 45m, 2, 17 | |||
24 | ★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing
The rightmost route on the ledge, starting at the first double bolt anchor, 3m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle onto ledge, then hard moves up flake to juggy steep climbing. Craft whatever rest you can, because the crux is clipping the anchors (though with a bit of funkiness, it can be made easier). Resist the temptation to put a giant draw on the anchor, and step up to the challenge to earn the grade! FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 1 Aug 2022 | 12m, 7 | |||
25 | ★ Juice on the Loose
A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move. The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale. Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean. FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Glen Thomson, 25 May 2022 | 12m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women
"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds) Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean. FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Matt King, Will Vidler, Heath Black, David Dearnley & Gavin, 1 Jun 2022 | 15m, 11 | |||
24 | ★ Is it About a Bicycle?
Short, but hilarious steep jugging up an overhanging prow. Shares the first 5 bolts with the Project to the right, before breaking hard left. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean. FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler, Michael Moore & Jared Anderson, 18 May 2022 | 10m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Armistice Direct
Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump. Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Mar 2016 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Armistice
The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump. Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 14m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ Entourage
Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped. FA: Macciza (on trad), 2013 FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson, Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 16m | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles
Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing. Start 6-8m right of Colosseum Corner, slightly down the hill at belay bolt.
| 70m, 3, 21 | |||
22 | ★★ The Sublime and the Beautiful
1
18
20m
2
22
35m
3
20
20m
Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).
FA: Bundy, Frogman & Mr Tonsai, 2009 | 75m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ San Pornando
Long sustained face climbing just right of Colosseum Corner on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Can lower off with a 70m (leader may have to downclimb 1m), otherwise re-thread half way down or use double ropes. FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009 | 38m, 16 | |||
24 | ★★★ Guillotine
The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall, and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned. Starts 4m left of Ben Trovato at small tree.
FA: Heath Black, 2010 FA: P1 Neil Monteith & P2 Chris Coghill, 2010 | 48m, 2, 23 | |||
28 | ★★★ Marxism
1
23/24
25m
2
24
25m
3
28
12m
Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread). Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.
Set: Mark Baker (pitch 2 & 3) FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2 & 3 in one big pitch), 2002 FA: Neil Monteith (P1 via tree start), 2010 FA: Neil Monteith (via Vespasian Wall start), 2023 | 62m, 3, 22 | |||
28 | ★★ Fashionista
Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top. FA: Steve Grkovic | 30m, 18 | |||
25 | ★★★ Vespasian's Wall
1
25
25m
2
33m
Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.
The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there. | 58m, 2, 20 | |||
25 | ★★★ Vespasian's Wall (Pitch 1 only)
FFA: Heath Black, 2011 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ The Young Violent Pony
Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. A bit of an ugly duckling for the first couple of bolts - then greatly improves on sharp edges and flakes. Feet are often very minimal. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up Kizashi to it's lower anchor. Starts 5m L of VW. FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 25m, 10 | |||
28 | ★★ The Old Sleepy Horse
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off. Set: Neil Monteith, 2009 FA: Steve Grokovic, Jun 2014 | 26m | |||
25 | ★★★ Kizashi
Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29). FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 20m, 12 | |||
29 | ★★ Kizashi Extension
Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.) Set: Neil Monteith, 2009 FA: Steve Grkovic, Jun 2014 | 27m | |||
24 | ★★ The Face Race
A long second pitch above Kizashi Extension - starting on the halfway ledge, 2m right of the vertical corner pitch of Ben Trovato (in the centre of the wall). Can be approached by climbing pitch 1 of Guillotine, Marxism or Vespasian's then traverse left along ledge to double bolt belay. The route climbs a long sustained face with a slight left trend - to eventually join into the finish of Sadomastication Pitch 3 for the last couple of bolts. Use a long sling on the first 'shared' bolt to avoid rope drag. FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Oct 2016 | 32m, 16 | |||
26 | ★★★ Kizmastication (linkup)
Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 27m, 13 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sadomastication
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!
Set: Heath Black FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Paul Frothy Thomson, 2012 | 67m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Reigning Steel
Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25. FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2012 | 17m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★★ Reigning Steel Extension
The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26. FA: Neil Monteith, 2014 | 27m, 13 | |||
28 | ★★★ Zoncolan
Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve. FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★★ Microdermabrasia
1
23
30m
2
25
25m
3
24
30m
One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.
FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009 | 85m, 3 | |||
26 | Poggio
Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route. Set: Megan Turnbull, 7 May 2016 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Gavia
Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile. FA: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Stevia (Linkup)
Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio. Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish. | 25m | |||
29 | ★★ Stelvio
RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high. FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014 | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Exile
A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.
Set: Jason Lammers, 2012 FA: Jason Lammers (pitches 1, 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 & 3), 2012 | 85m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Milestone Arete
Right facing arête above the right end of the cable traverse to Sweet Dreams (directly below Cloudheat - see topo) Climb the left side of arete, then switch to right side for techy finish. FA: Neil Monteith, 2013 | 14m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ The Road Not Taken
Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible. FA: Paul Thomson, 5 Nov 2014 | 18m, 8 | |||
29 | ★ S for Stile
Orange thin face right of the central scoop feature. Finishes when the rock goes black and crap. FA: Steve Grokovic, May 2016 | 18m | |||
23 | Cipressa
Crimpy direct line to scoops then up the scoopy bit clipping bolts to the right then finish right into top of S for Stile. FA: Megan Turnbull, 2016 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Cloudheat
A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to first set of lower-offs. Set: Chris Coghill, 2009 FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 12m, 5 | |||
29 | ★★ Cloudheat Extension
Nail hard extension above the scoop feature. A lot of the bolts are hard to clip until at your waist. Finishes at same set of high anchors at Climbalot. FA: Steve Grokovic, 7 May 2016 | 27m | |||
24 | ★★ Climbalot
Pumpy and long. Starts 3m right of the leaning steep corner on the terrace, at low FH for belay. Nice orange wall for 3 RBs to huge dyno move, then a couple of long moves until a move left into the corner for a couple of metres. Finish right out under bulge and up orange wall. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2014 | 27m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★ Weakend Worrier
Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 30m, 12 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | |||||
24 | ★★ The Sweetest Dream
A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching an itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay. Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so as to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go anywhere from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'. | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Saccharine Nightmare
1
22
27m
2
21
30m
3
17
35m
4
15
10m
A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.
FFA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 2012 | 100m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Hyperglycemic Hallucination
Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.
Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds. FA: Dave Hughes & Al Bradley, 22 Feb 2018 | 60m, 2, 18 | |||
20 | ★ Dreams Are Free
Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'. | 25m, 2 | |||
20 | Jude Food
Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB. Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free. | 25m, 3 | |||
18 | Rapid Eye Movement
Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem. Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'. | 25m, 1 | |||
21 | ★★ Smack My Pitch Up
1
18
25m
2
18
26m
3
18
21m
4
21
23m
5
17
25m
Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.
Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins). FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010 | 120m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★★ Whymper
1
19
25m
2
18
25m
3
19
25m
4
19
35m
5
16
35m
Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off. Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.
FA: J. Anderson, M. Law & V. Peterson, 2009 | 150m, 5 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Northern Walls | |||||
20 | ★ World of Wander
1
19
35m
2
18
30m
3
20
25m
4
17
15m
Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).
Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark. FA: Eugene Mak, Jeff Crass & Mikl Law, 2021 | 110m, 4 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Lower Cliff Subjacent | |||||
23 | The Leftovers
2nd line of ringbolts left of the major arete. Up easy mega flake to start then long wall with crimpy reachy crux. Run it out on fragile jugs to high anchor. FA: Heath Black, 7 May 2016 | 20m, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Guilty Remnant
This prominent arete beckons from above and below. Start on left side of arete on orange face. Trend right and up face to reach arete about half way up wall. Finish up jugs to high anchor. Set: Heath Black, 3 Apr 2016 FA: Heath Black & Rob Medlicott, 7 May 2016 | 24m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Reality Check
Thin face on the wall right of Gormenghast. Finish up right arete to lower-off. Three carrots with home made hangers at 1m intervals heading to the arete share the same start. FA: Neil Monteith, 7 Jun 2014 | 20m, 8 |
Showing all 99 routes.