A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Joe Goding benwiessner Mikie Bob Kieran Loughran Duncan Brown Rowan Blakers Stu Dobbie Dave Scarlett Adam Herdman Luen Warneke
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Table of contents
- 1. Mackeys Lookout 21 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mackeys Lookout 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -36.711500, 146.830361
description
Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere
Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection.
approach
About 1/3 the way down the mountain you will find a hair pin bend with a sign on the left (as you drive down) saying "Mackey's lookout". To get to 'Stiletto' 'Slabs' park here, walk across the road (past the prominent sign post on the right), up "The Big Walk" for about 10mins. Just before (say 30-50m) you reach the stream (which turns into the waterfall on the main face) contour left along the white slabs, cross the waterfall (carefully) and abseil down the far side (right as you look OUT from the cliff) from a rappel station (2 rings) on an easy to get to huge boulder. Rap is 25m to another rap. 55m is the next rap, so make sure you have suitable ropes. It is about 40m from the rap below to the bottom of the (new) routes described here.
On the right hand side of the cliff (climber's right), scramble down to the slab proper, and there is a 50m rap to another 30m rap to the bottom.
For access to the 'Noblesse Oblige' area see separate access notes in that section.
ethic
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
The Preying Priest
This route takes the prominent large slab at the far left of Mackey's Lookout Slabs (as seen from the road below). The climbing is good but the access is not. Follow the walking track along the top past Mackey's Lookout, past the Stiletto Slab cairn, cross the creek and continue to the eastern most point (where the track swings back and passes behind a boulder). Bash down ridge for about 40 minutes until you come to the top of the slabs, then continue down the right side (facing out) to the base of the slabs (about another hour). The first pitch is on a lower slab just below the larger expanse.
FA: Stu Dobbie & Rod Kerr, 2011 | 15 | 290m, 5 | |||||
2 |
Flatfoot
Essentially an escape off left from 'Stiletto' | 16 | 130m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★ Stiletto
Start: Starts at the inverted V overlap with a small natural stair formation beneath L of centre of the slab.
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Mark Shelton & Peter Watling, 1976 | 15 | 180m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ A Fundamental Difference Of Opinion
A good line, good rock, good gear in a great environment. Take 10 bolt plates for the first pitch.
FA: Josef Goding(P1), Nicholas Allan & Michael Milne (P2), 2008 | 16 | 120m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ No Ego
Consistent at the grade and very enjoyable. Fully bolted, take a couple of bolt plates, the rest is rings. Start: Best to rap in (25m first, then 55m 2nd rap then 40m 3rd rap) from the far side of the waterfall as you walk in.
FA: Nicholas Allan, Josef Goding & Michael Milnes, 2008 | 16 | 40m | |||||
6 |
Dry Weather Road
(1) 40m Start up 1st pitch of 'Stiletto', but when on slab above corner, head up and R to BB on narrow curving ledge. (2) 40m (crux) Up past 2BRs and thin flake to 2BB on narrow ledge. (3) 40m Up past ?3 BRs to 2BB in a scoop below a small overlap. (4) 45m 1 BR Easily to top. FA: Geoff Gledhill & Graeme Parton, 1984 | 17 | 170m | |||||
7 |
Unknown
Line of fixed hangers up dyke to join 'Weekend Hustlers'. | |||||||
8 |
Weekend Hustlers
Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' . Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Gledhill, 2008 | 22 | 35m | |||||
9 |
On the Edge of equilibrium
Lovely slab climbing. Consistent. Take 5 bolt plates. Start: Starts on a small ledge about 35m off the ground level on the 'Stiletto' slab wall, just left (say 4-5m) of the waterfall at DBB (glue in M10x100mm carrots). *This is around 8-10m right (facing in) from the start/belay rings of 'No Ego'. FA: Josef Goding & Ian Smith, 2008 | 18 | 45m | |||||
10 |
Mirror Image
Clean sustained slab climbing. FA: Geoff Gledhill & David Proll, 1988 | 18 | 130m | |||||
11 |
★★ Spit And Polish
Thin, sustained and slippery. Start: Start in the gully R of the 'Stiletto' slab below the steepening. FA: (2) Mike Law(1, 3), FCA Geoff Gledhill, James McIntosh (alts) & Peter Watling March 1992, 1991 | 21 | 120m | |||||
12 |
★ Brake Failure
Starts about two-thirds the way up the first pitch of 'High Heels'. This pitch starts higher in the gully than the guide book suggests and the first pitch traverses almost horizontally to the start of the cracks.
FA: Mike Law & Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1979 | 16 | 90m, 2, 4 | |||||
13 |
High Heels
(1) 20m From where the gully steepens, continue up to belay beside the slab. (2) 40m Climb the slab passing 3 BRs, keeping as far to the L as prudent. Belay above the overlap. (3) 40m The faint groove and beyond. Start: Starts in the gully on the R side of the 'Stiletto' Slab. FA: Geoff Gledhill & Joe Friend (alts), 1978 | 13 | 100m | |||||
14 |
★ The Indelible Shuffle
Easy but unprotected slabbing. It is quite possible that the last couple of pitches of 'Good Luck And Good Management' merge into this route. Follow the walking track from the hairpin bend to the first bend in the track. Traverse across the hillside for about 50 metres until the edge of the slab is reached. Descend next to the slab for about 15 metres to a scrubby ledge on the right (facing out). P1 (53m, 10) Go up past right edge of an overlap, swing up left onto slab above. Straight up black rock for about 15 metres to a traverse line and go 5 metres left to a grassy scoop. Follow the line directly above until it meets a dyke on the left. Up dyke for a couple of metres to belay off a small wire just past a small overlap on left. P2 (30m, -) Stroll up. FA: Kieran Loughran, 1978 | 10 | 83m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
Wombat of Misdirection
When the wombat comes a crossing, look the other way. Ten pitches of dangerous run-out slab following the waterfall of Stiletto Slab to the top. Sometimes slab, sometime mountaineering (may even be well iced in winter?), and always, always lichen growing on polished granite. Approach as for Noblesse Oblige and continue past Good Luck and Good Management. Keep walking left (if facing the cliff) along the slabs to the high point of one set of trees. Down to the bottom of this slab/ gully. Continue to next high point then down to the bottom of the next gully. This is where the climb of horror begins.
From the boulder you can bash through seriously thick bush directly behind for 10- 15 meters and up onto another slab. Walk up a few more meters until you reach "The Big Walk." Make a right turn down the track to head towards Mackey's lookout, while you question your sanity and why on earth you listened to a wombat that morning. FFA: Michael Salt & Paul Graham, 9 Feb 2015 FA: Michael Salt & Paul Graham, 9 Feb 2015 | 13 X | 540m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★★★ The Misdirected Wombat
Another long and somewhat engaging slab outing on this long sweep of stone. Pitch 1 - start as for 'The Wombat Of Misdirection' but rather than crossing the waterfall at its second pitch (not recommended if the falls are flowing heavily) continue to ramble upwards staying mostly on the cleaner slabs keeping right of the falls all the way to the top of the cliff. Many cruxes including a variety of steep slabbing, slippery moss gardens, vertical jungle scrambling, bouldering, avoiding waterfalls and general adventure shenanigans. Optional belays abound allowing any would be repeat ascentionists to split this single pitch 500+ metre route into as many pitches as you like, but fair warning - most of the possible 'pitches' would be unprotectable and belays would likely be rubbish anyway (unless you belay at various trees and bushes along the way). First Ascent was soloed and while not recommended, may not be much more dangerous than attempting to pitch it out. Repeat at your own risk. FA: Stan Meissner & Duncan Brown, 16 Nov 2019 | 13 X | 520m | |||||
17 |
★ The Bleeding Nun
Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts. FA: A. Herdman & D. Filan (alt leads) | 13 R | 520m, 10 | |||||
18 |
Trail of Blood
Start is good but soon deteriorates. Access: As for Noblise Oblige: Follow yellow tape up ridge to base of Noblise Oblige (easily locatable from first bolt on R most low-angled slab). Cross L vegetated line to slab of Good Luck and Good Management (also with FHs), then cross next vegetated line to large slab that starts a bit lower.
6 hours car-to-car FA: Stu Dobbie, Ben Wright & Dorothea Hahn, 2011 | 14 | 520m | |||||
19 |
★ Good Luck & Good Management 510m 14
A good honest easy adventure route. Start: From the gully left of Noblesse Obliege, below a small flake leading on to the slab.
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Anthony Pattison, 2008 | 15 | 450m, 10 | |||||
20 |
★★ The Count of Mounting Crystals
Enjoyable slab climbing in a proud position high on Mackey’s. Pitch 1 is probably one of the best slab pitches at the grade at Buffalo, and pitch 3 pulls through a body-height overlap. 60m rope essential. Start: most parties will approach this via the first 6 pitches of Good Luck and Good Management (and this might become the preferred finish to that route). When done this way, the combined route is 498m with pitches of 12,14,14,13,6,9,15,12,14,6. It would also be possible to rap in, but you’d need to scramble down the top slab to find the last belay bolt (SS FH in a good stance), then rap 58m to the bushy ledge, then 40m to the DBB, then 60m to the base, and retrieve gear on the ascent.
FA: Steve Toal, Mei Ying Liew & Damien Heath, 2011 | 15 | 200m, 4, 10 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige / Noblesse Oblige 405m 13
Best long easy slab at Buffalo, Easy slab climbing up a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hexes or tricams are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground. Stash a bicycle near the top beforehand, for an easy way back down to retrieve the car afterwards. Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here, tape on tree to mark start a bit further right. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes, there are some small cairns and yellow tapes. You solo an easy slab, then there is a tree with double yellow tapes on it, go right here to the start The climb takes about 1 or 2 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack. Basically 4 or 5 pitches up a black streak up a buttress. Then an easy traverse 20m right to a black streak up the next buttress for 3 pitches, then 2 easy finishing walk/scramble pitches.
FA: Mikl Law, Geoff Gledhill Easter 1976 & retro-bolted 2007 | 13 | 420m, 9, 6 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | ★ | The Indelible Shuffle | 83m | ||
13 | High Heels | 100m | |||
★★ | Noblesse Oblige | 420m, 9, 6 | |||
13 R | ★ | The Bleeding Nun | 520m, 10 | ||
13 X | ★★★ | The Misdirected Wombat | 520m | ||
Wombat of Misdirection | 540m, 10 | ||||
14 | Trail of Blood | 520m | |||
15 | ★ | Good Luck & Good Management 510m 14 | 450m, 10 | ||
★★ | Stiletto | 180m, 4 | |||
★★ | The Count of Mounting Crystals | 200m, 4, 10 | |||
The Preying Priest | 290m, 5 | ||||
16 | ★★ | A Fundamental Difference Of Opinion | 120m, 3 | ||
★ | Brake Failure | 90m, 2, 4 | |||
Flatfoot | 130m | ||||
★★ | No Ego | 40m | |||
17 | Dry Weather Road | 170m | |||
18 | Mirror Image | 130m | |||
On the Edge of equilibrium | 45m | ||||
21 | ★★ | Spit And Polish | 120m | ||
22 | Weekend Hustlers | 35m | |||
? | Unknown |