Ascents of Toast

Rptx2

Rptx2

Rpt

Fun! Right up until I dislocated my shoulder on the crux. Take it easy haha

Just a stress free practice go at the end of the day - sent!

Yeeww

Only jumped on it to try to figure a beta for the crux...ended up flashing it!

Took the better part of 2 days to tick. Despite being so short, this is intensely bouldery and steep. I climbed through the crux with some gnarly "heels above head" silliness. Pumpy and powerful.

Caveat: after falling off on the previous lap, I lowered with the 3rd bolt still clipped and immediately went again... and then sent.

No surprises there. Done in one sit. Too fat to maintain enough tension.

Trying to turn the beta into a science.

One last lap at end of day. Swear the drop knee move is the hardest move on karma.

Dogged this while Matt was working Karma. Not motivated on Karma at all

End of the day. Didn't feel like crusading up karma gettin today so just getting the first half dialled

Sussin' moves, proj shopping

First shot of the day

Refamiliarising with the holds. Needed some foot beta to unlock the crux.

Epic drop knee beta does the trick and gets the tick!

Sat on most bolts. So pumped it was hard to hold onto the enormous jugs at the end. Need to workout how my feet can help!

The draws were on karma getting above, so I had to revisit this sharp not my style piece of toast. Have forgotten all my refinements.

Another lap. Still good bouldery fun.

Another lap to get onto the business.

Sharp as but cool moves

Retro flash. Great to send this old old dog from two years ago. Sent it putting the draws on. Sharp and punchy.

One shot. Found the dyno easy. Moves before it are tough though. Will go quickly

hard crux if you dont get you feet right

a few powerful moves from bolts 1-3 then cruisey to lower off

did the crux nicely and nearly rolled off as the finger tape undid

Down to one fall, climbed from below crux to anchors.

finally !!! so happy, it ended up being my nemesis!

should try it earlier in the day next time

2nd shot today. Not as hard as i remember

2nd go. Sooo steep - keeping the feet on is the key, no matter how awkward it feels. Everything else in the cave spanked me senseless