A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Cameron Roy
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
Cleland
53 in Crag
- 1.1. Woolshed Gully 3 in Cliff
- 1.2. Elephant Rock 16 in Cliff
- 1.3. Chambers Gully 4 in Cliff
- 1.4. The Urban Goat Crag 3 in Cliff
- 1.5. Tode Hall 7 in Cliff
- 1.6. Bandicoot Buttress 20 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cleland 53 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.968233, 138.694380
description
Cleland Conservation Park is a protected area in the Adelaide Hills Region of South Australia. The park was built to conserve a significant area of natural bushland. The park is also home to the Cleland Wildlife Park.
access issues
This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing as required by the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.
where to stay
Accommodation is available in nearby Adelaide.
1.1. Woolshed Gully 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.963408, 138.690159
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sky Blue | 14 | ||||
| 2 | Lawn Green | 13 | ||||
| 3 |
Blood Red
Little L-facing corner 4m R of Lawn Green. FA: Paul Badenoch (solo), 2000 | 8 | 10m | |||
1.2. Elephant Rock 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.968596, 138.682059
approach
Follow the main Mount Lofty trail for approx 300m then take your first immediate back-tracking left (now decommissioned so quite difficult to see/find/use) along that eventually will become the ETSA access spur track.
history
Discovered in '65 but ascents only put up post '78 (Badenoch, Adams)
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Baby Elephant Walk | 16 | 7m | |||
| 2 | ★ Just Delightful | 10 | 10m | |||
| 3 | Sucker For a Peanut | 19 | 10m | |||
| 4 | The Desperado | 23 | 10m | |||
| 5 | Ingrid | 8 | 11m | |||
| 6 | Shooting From the Lip | 22 | 11m | |||
| 7 | Big Ears | 9 | 11m | |||
| 8 | ★★ Mahout | 10 | 10m | |||
| 9 | Plummeting Pachyderms | 13 | 13m | |||
| 10 | ★ Elephant Man | 21 | 15m | |||
| 11 | Tusk | 21 | 15m | |||
| 12 | John Hurt | 12 | 10m | |||
| 13 | John Hurt DF | 16 | 10m | |||
| 14 | Trunk Line | 12 | 10m | |||
| 15 | ★ Corkscrew | 13 | 35m | |||
| 16 | Loxodonto | 15 | 7m | |||
1.3. Chambers Gully 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.953550, 138.687246
description
Small path side crag in Cleland Conservation Park. Routes are top ropeable with natural anchors yet ascent and descent can be difficult. The CCSA does not recommend climbing here due to the possibility of dislodging rocks onto a busy track.
approach
15 minutes walk up Chambers Gully from Waterfall Gully Road. The cliff is 2m from the track on the R.
descent notes
Free solo the easier routes to the sides of the crag, or scramble around the back, as with most Adelaide metro crags look out for blackberries!
/fd/17/fd1731d265782bf8080d7c8bda9d5e832784e4c1) /e4/65/e465016fbb2a65a61ab1dd29a12ecf6bf40b64d6) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Lost Libido
Dubious protection. Climb the face L of Madame Sendaria via a flake to a groove. Finish L of the tree. FA: Erik Lock & Craig Roberts, 1991 | 13 | 12m | |||||
| 2 |
Madame Sendaria Gets One Up On Erik
The crack 2m L of the chimney. FA: Sue Worrell, Paul Farmer & Ian Balcombe, 1991 | 7 | 12m | |||||
| 3 |
Why Can't Whales Play Rugby?
The chimney, then L around the roof. FA: Ian Balcombe, Paul Farmer & Sue Worrell, 1991 | 13 | 12m | |||||
| 4 |
Mr Wobbly Goes Kite Flying
Up the small corner R of Whales, then traverse L past a bush to the arete. Up this. FA: Paul Farmer, Sue Worrell & Ian Balcombe, 1991 | 7 | 12m | |||||
1.4. The Urban Goat Crag 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.971706, 138.683294
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kids' Stuff | 8 | 12m | |||
| 2 | Puffing Billy | 19 | 9m | |||
| 3 | Wild and Woolly | 15 | 15m | |||
1.5. Tode Hall 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Softly, Softly | 21 | 7m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Tode in the Crack | 16 | 10m | |||
| 3 | ★ The Eye of the Spider | 19 | 14m | |||
| 4 | ★ The Wild Blue Yonder | 19 | 15m | |||
| 5 | Raggedy Man | 19 | 14m | |||
| 6 | ★★ Queensland Cane | 8 | 14m | |||
| 7 | Tadpole | 14 | 5m | |||
1.6. Bandicoot Buttress 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.963301, 138.702212
description
Rarely visited, this crag offers exceptional morning shade and some short, intermediate routes. The rock is sandstone.
Most of the routes include some vegetation.
approach
Park at the junction of Mt Lofty Summit Drive and Sprigg Rd. Walk down the Yerang Track keeping right at any junctions. Walk along the track for 1km from the car to the most westerly point on the track. At this point, leave the track and follow the broad spur due west.
Follow the spur down for 300m following a very faint pad, keeping to the top of the spur until the incline steepens and you are overlooking power lines.
Turn 90 deg L to the top of the crag, or to access the base continue ahead down a short scree before turning hard L.
Apparently you can also approach from below.
descent notes
Descent can be made at the northern end of the cliff.
history
Discovered by David Paull who was conducting bandicoot surveys in the area in 1989. He didn't write up the routes until Grant Tode claimed some first ascents here in 1992.
First documented in Nick Neagle's 1997 guide
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ No More Bandicoots
Start in the small alcove at the L end of the crag. Climb. FA: David Paull & David Sinclair, 1989 | 19 | 12m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Koala Kapers
The lightning bolt crack R of 'No More Bandicoots' FA: David Paull & David Sinclair, 1989 | 17 | 12m | |||||
| 3 |
Fur Balls
The middle of the small buttress to the R. FA: Nick Neagle & Erik Lock, 1995 | 15 | 10m | |||||
| 4 |
Spayed and Confused
The corner R of 'Fur Balls' FA: Caroline Lock, Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1995 | 11 | 10m | |||||
| 5 |
★ So Where Have All the Bandicoots Gone?
The arete L of Lock Up Your Furry Animals. RPs required on the top half. FA: Paul Gray, Chris Oerman & Mark Witham, 20 May 2017 | 16 | 10m | |||||
| 6 |
★ Lock Up Your Furry Animals
The fist sized crack through the L side of the roof. Then carefully up the wall. FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle & Caroline Lock, 1995 | 17 | 10m | |||||
| 7 |
Dial-a-Dingo
Start up Lock Up Your Furry Animals, move R under the roof at 4m and then up the wide crack. FA: David Paull & David Sinclair, 1989 | 14 | 11m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Golden Boy
Bolted line few metres left of 'Echidna Believe It', starting up wall/arête and finishing on DBB FA: Mark Witham & Chris Oerman, Mar 2015 | 23 | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Echidna Believe It
Start at the white dot and then follow the bolts. FA: Adam Gower, 1996 | 24 | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 10 |
Cheryl
The short corner 4m R of Echidna Believe It to a ledge has some gymnastic moves. FA: David Shelton & Mandy Williamson, 1995 | 18 | 14m | |||||
| 11 |
The Rise and Fall of the Third Chimpanzee
Start as for Cling Wrapped Cat, move L and up the poorly protected line. FA: TR David Paull, 1992 FFA: Tim Day & Erik Lock, 1993 | 19 | 13m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Cling Wrapped Cat
From the start of Cyril, move L onto the wall and follow the bolts to a steep finish. A stick clip wouldn't go astray. FA: Tim Day & Mandy Williamson, 1994 | 21 | 13m, 3 | |||||
| 13 |
Cyril
The botanical corner FA: Mandy Williamson & David Sheldon, 1995 | 12 | 13m | |||||
| 14 |
★ This Whole Existence is So Beautiful
Leave Quoll Stroll at the base of the flake and head up the wall between that route and the corner (Cyril). 2 BR on the upper wall (not accessible from QS). FA: Paul Badenoch & Chris Oerman, 20 May 2017 | 15 | 13m, 2 | |||||
| 15 |
★ Quoll Stroll
The wall R of Cyril. Move up and R of the large flake. Then continue straight up past a bulge and some horizontals. FA: David Paull & David Sinclair, 1989 | 15 | 13m | |||||
| 16 |
★ The He Men of Yesteryear
Too close to Quoll Stroll. Straight up the arete using good side holds for the L hand 1m R of the big flake. Over the bulge and on. FA: TR David Paull, 1992 FFA: Tim Day & Nick Neagle, 1993 | 18 | 13m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 |
★ Decadent Frogs
Start up 'The He Men of Yesteryear' and traverse R to a bolt. Straight up past 2 more bolts. FA: Tim Day & Erik Lock, 1993 | 25 | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Frog Spawn
Direct start to Decadent Frogs. Super technical wall climb, only about 15 moves, but it packs it in. FA: Steve Kelly, 2014 | 26 | 4 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Appetite for Destruction
Bolted line right of DF/FS. FA: Steve Kelly, 2013 | 24 | ||||||
| 20 |
National Trout Network
Wall R of Decadent Frogs, seeps after rain, dirty and lichenous. FA: Tim Day & Erik Lock, 1993 | 20 | 9m, 1 | |||||
