Routes as trad in Coffs Harbour

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 241 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall
14 Medicine Wheel

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016

Trad 9m
15 Rock People

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016

Trad 9m
16 Othila

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mar 2016

Trad 9m
15 Eagle Clan

Left of Othila.

FA: Za/Be Utopia

Trad 9m
Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
17 riding in bliss

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 13 May 2016

Trad 12m
17 Uzi Packing Drug Lords

Up Wall on Trad Gear

Trad 12m
14 Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel

Up flack and through bulge

Trad 12m
15 Carnage At The Mouse Machine

climbs the right leaning orange crack

Trad 12m
13 When Twighlight Turns To Dark

the corner crack on left of wall

FA: J. Gracie & T. Hill, 1996

Trad 15m
16 35 Degrees

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Mixed 15m, 5
23 The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998

Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
21 Moon Shadow

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 20m, 5
19 Adder

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 20m
23 Sting

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 15m, 3
18 Monkey Boots

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 19m, 5
16 Stoned

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land
14 Cruisy Susi

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

FA: Mike Klingensmith & Brian Cork, Jul 2016

Trad 10m
Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
19 Spanking Monkeys

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

Trad 10m
20 Thin Red Line

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

Mixed 12m, 2
Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
24 Kanoon

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

Mixed 12m, 4
Glenreagh Fort Knox Narcissus Roof
21 Narcissus Raining Down

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Mixed 10m, 3
Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
15 Corky's Crack

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

FA: Brian Cork, 1997

Trad 15m
16 Stealth Mode

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

FA: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 16 Jun 2012

Mixed 15m, 2
17 Ally Cat and the Puppet Show

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

FA: Brian Cork, 2011

Trad 15m
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall
17 Eeor's Tail

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

FA: Martin Cloonan & Tristan Ricketts, 2001

Mixed 12m, 1
14 Paint Spot

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998

Trad 14m
14 Brush Strokes

1m right of PS

FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998

Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode

Project on the left side of the ML. This route involves a series of roofs with steep walls in between. Going to take some serious work to unlock its sequences

12 Shadow

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 12m
16 Rabid

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

FA: David Wagland, 2009

Trad 12m
17 Hair of the Dog

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

17 Hairy Dog

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 20m
21 Sickle

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

FA: Rhys Van Gastel & Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 15m
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
15 Our Kind Of Sunday

3m left of Tink Tink.

Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay.

FFA: Thomas Gissing & Luciana Albuquerque

Trad 8m
16 Tink Tink

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
17 Irish Dorks

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Maddened Monk

3 BR's and NP

FA: Bruce Jones

Mixed 8m, 3
19 Exit Right Pursued By Bear

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Monks Alive

3 BR's & NP at start

FA: Bruce Jones

Mixed 10m, 3
16 Love And Marriage

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
13 Divorce

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

Trad 8m
15 Ethan's Tears

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Disbelief

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

FA: Danny Rose & Shiloh Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
23 Parting Gesture

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose & Bruce Jones

Mixed 8m, 2
18 King Billie Coke Bottle

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
17 Enema Tree

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
18 Cheese Cutter

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
16 Sally The Race Car Driver

2m crack on west face

FA: M. Kelly

Trad 8m
21 Birthday Suit

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off ‘Cheese Cutter’. Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 2BR’s and small cam to tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 2

6m right of Birthday Suit. Up following the series of shallow, flaring seams. The feet are quite spaced apart and therefore consists of many powerful moves from very high heel hooks with minuscule gastons and sidepulls in the seams supported by an array of similarly sized sidepulls, crimps and slopers. It is very sustained and will probably be graded somewhere between 25 - 27.. At 3/4 height the climb eases into a naturally protected flake which leads to a break and a cruisy head wall. Needs 2 bolts lower down.

TradProject 12m
23 Sherrif

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 2
19 Denali And Sequoia

5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay

FA: Marty Scmidt

Trad 8m
Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
16 Release The Hounds

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

Trad 12m
25 Synchronicity

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Trad 12m
17 Conjunctivitis

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

Trad 10m
Glenreagh Waihoo Deliverance Area
18 Super Grovel
1 16
2 18
3 16

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

  1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

  2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

  3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

FA: Brian Cork & Daniel Hazell, 21 May 2016

Trad 35m, 3
19 Sanction of the Victim

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

FA: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011

Mixed 32m, 4
Concerto of Deliverence

start near beehive. still a project

Trad 32m
Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House
10 Corner Crack

Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project

Trad 12m
Glenreagh Never Never Hide and Seek Wall
Joes Climb (Project)

above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains.

19 Tinker Bells Big Brother

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 23 Feb 2012

FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 23 Feb 2012

Mixed 20m, 2
Sneak it In (Project)

Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey

TradProject 17m
18 Lets Zouk

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

FFA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2 Feb 2012

FA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2 Feb 2012

Mixed 15m, 1
Glenreagh Never Never Lost Boys Hideout Wall
17 Bush Wacker

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2004

Trad 35m
20 Battle of Evermore

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt & Peter Higgs, 2005

Mixed 70m, 6
21 Angels of Babylon

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey

Mixed 25m, 1
22 Acts Of Sublimation

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2005

Mixed 27m, 5
‘Project' - Drop Zone

FA: Bruce Jones & Danny Rosewood, 1997

TradProject 45m
The Hulk - 'Closed Project'

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.

FA: Terry Bernutt

TradProject 30m
22 The Antichrist

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

FA: Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Mixed 30m, 7
18 Juicy

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

Trad 30m
24 Astro Boy

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 35m
20 Boulder S

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

FA: Marc Bailey & Bruce Jones

Trad 25m
Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
23 Sky's The Limit

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2004

Mixed 47m, 12
19 Hydra

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2002

FFA: 2002

Mixed 30m, 3
24 Ponic

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

FA: Alan Ezzy, Jan 2014

Mixed 1
19 Hydra's Head

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

FA: Joe Truban & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 17m
20 Captain America

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Mixed 25m, 4
21 The Shadow

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Peter Higgs, Brice Milne & Terry Bernutt, 2003

Mixed 25m, 6
21 Slip it in if it Feels Good (project)

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

MixedProject 25m, 1
17 Tinker Bell

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

FA: Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

Mixed 30m, 1
19 Tinker Bell Direct

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

FA: Peter Higgs

Trad 25m
19 Angelina Jollies Jublies

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

FA: Brice Milne & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 25m
24 Captain Fantastic
1 24
2 21

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

FA: Leon Gray & Toby Holmes

TradProject 2
18 Mighty Mouse

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

FA: Terry Bernutt

Trad 25m
25 Feed The Rat
1 19
2 25
3 22
4 24

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Set by Josef Truban

FFA: Alan Ezzy & Leon Gray, 2011

Trad 50m, 4
Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall
23 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

Mixed 8m, 2
18 Hope and Glory

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: K. Bennett & G. Dean, 1993

Mixed 15m, 2
20 Bounty's Revenge

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Mixed 15m, 2
15 Toto Takes the High Road

Climb Yellow Brick Road and then left up the face to a tree belay.

FA: Brian Cork & Ally Cork, 5 Aug

Trad 15m
4 Yellow Brick Road

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: K. Bennett & solo, 1991

Trad 6m
4 Moist Crack

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: G. Dean & solo, 1991

Trad 6m
18 Blind Fury

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1993

Mixed 20m, 2
20 Warped Minds

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

FA: MK, 1998

Mixed 15m, 2
18 Oh the Humidity

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

Trad 10m
19 Bush Christening

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

FA: D. Rose

Mixed 20m, 2
25 On A Crimp And A Prayer

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

Mixed 15m, 5
18 Rabid Dog

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1993

Trad 20m
12 Charred Dog

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

  1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

  2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

FA: E. Sharp & B. Birchall, 1991

Trad 30m, 2
Glenreagh Wonderland Canine Wall
24 Stairway To Heaven

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Mixed 25m, 4

Showing 1 - 100 out of 241 routes.