Routes as trad in Coffs Harbour

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

The right hand side of the black wall, about 4m left of the gully. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts plus trad gear to a chain belay.

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

Through the breaks to a cave.

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

Up wall using small cams.

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

About 8m right of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack then follow the crack to the tree A bit loose near the top.

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay.

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

3 BR's and NP

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

3 BR's & NP at start

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

2m crack on west face