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1 35m
2 20m

description

Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.

  1. 35m (24) Climb sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced and oddly placed as you get higher. Belay on vegetated ledge at DBB.

  2. 20m (20) Up thin crack splitting the exposed arête above to small ledge. Sling rock tooth with a large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the DBB.

Route history

3 Jan 2006First ascent: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -43.13950, 148.00560

Grade citation

24 Assigned grade
private
24 private
24, 20 private

ethic

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (tasmanpeninsula@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

inherited from Tasman Peninsula

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

arete awesome fun

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 27 Apr
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