★★★ The Great Flake 22

1. 90m - Up to foot of corner

2. 25m (16) - Up corner to ledge on left

3. 40m (20) - Go left for 8m then up shallow corner to small stance and belay

4. 40m (20) - Up flake to ramp and follow this to foot of corner

5. 40m (19) - Up corner to roof then up off-width to bulge. Step right onto face and up to sloping ledge

6. 40m (22) - Around rofof then off-width crack to bulge. Trend right up to shallow corner on arete and then 5m right to belay

7. 21m (21) - Up corner for 5m then step left for 8m into next corner and up to ledge and piton belay

8. 40m (18) - Up short slab to top then up wall to ledge, go right around the roof and then left into shallow corner

9. 30m (18) - Through roof and corner to ledge, go right for 5m then up to topout

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.