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Routes as sport in No Glove

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

FA: John Carlson & Mike Peck, 1984

Sport 30m, 2
18 On the Beach Direct Start

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

Sport 30m, 1
20 When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer & John Finnigan, 1982

Sport 32m, 4
18 Forever Present

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 12 Apr 2015

Sport 30m, 7
18 Echidna Buffet

An attempt to create more easy slabs turned into a misguided use of bolts and effort by people who should know better.

Start down and right of 'Rite of Passage', as for 'No Easy Street'. Step onto the boulder and follow the easiest path up and left past bolts until you're on the horizontal weakness of 'Rite of Passage'. Traverse right to gain the crack. Follow the crack and dyke up and left, then easy slabbing to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott & Damian Javanovic, 2015

Sport 35m
19 Haircare Make-up and Drugs

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell & Mike Peck, 1987

Sport 25m, 2
19 Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Rob Topfer, 1982

Sport 25m, 2
22 Going Troppo

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Paul Daniel, 1982

Sport 30m, 4

Showing all 8 routes.

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