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1 16 35m
2 21 12m
3 23 18m
4 17 30m

description

All protection is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is 10.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch is the same as Aphelion pitch 1.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up Left. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. A tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Route history

2004First ascent: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92875, 152.94690

Grade citation

16, 21, 23, 17 Assigned grade
grAId
grAId
grAId
17(S)
20 [19 - 20] -- grAId
22 Susy G
23 Troy McAndrew
23

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 49 from 122 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

layback weird confusing rest easy sharp hands epic flake adventurous interesting bail roof short feet reachy crack steep sloper bad good awesome superb fun fantastic cool super nice lovely enjoyable pleasant stoked fabulous exciting sweet ripper great overhung pumped crux solid powerful sustained hard committing runout exposed tricky scary intimidating fall

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 12 May
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