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"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Ethic: inherited from Black Ian's Rocks

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Matthias Pausch, 1990


Located in Black Ian's Rocks approx:
Long/Lat: 142.103598,-37.002915

Route Grade Citations

26 Community registered grade
* Michael Salt
26 The North Grampians Update
26 * Grampians Selected Climbs
26 ** The Black Guide

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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