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South-eastern Outcrops

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5
12

Seasonality

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Description

These are the blocks immediately L of the main Wall of China face around the descent gully from that wall. Not much worthwhile climbing here. The routes are a bit hard to identify and describe.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

For the first 8 routes from the LH descent gully for the Wall of China walk L through the slot to an alcove of rock. It is best to identify Chow Su Pow. This is the LH of 2 easy chimney lines on the main wall.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

From the centre of the wall L of the Chow Su Pow chimney follow the thin left leaning diagonal crack up to the left arête. Up the left arête to the rooflet. Step up and left through the rooflet.

From the centre of the wall L of Chow Su Pow follow the thin crack up to the horizontal break. Step right and then up the steep juggy runnel above. Looks very unlikely for the grade.

From the left most of the two descent gullies walk left through the slot against the cliff to the chimney 15m left of its left end (i.e. the second chimney). Climb the chimney for 2m then the left arête

The left arête of the main face (right arête of Chow Su Pow chimney).

Start 2m right of Yangtze. Climb the middle of the face and move left to finish up Yangtze.

The arête right of Sang Kyu Bai is hard and unprotected at the top.

Immediately right (south) of Cultural Revolution is a crack on the south face. Up.

Add about 8 grades if you don't use a "cheater stone" to reach the twin knobbed nodule up and just right of the initial crack!! Up crack and runnel above.

Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks.

On the right wall of the second gully left of Chin Chimney. Jam up and around the bulge and continue easily to the top.

From the base of Pig Tail step 1½m right to the incipient crack. Up.

A nice route. Start at the base of Pig Tail. Edge right, then up and traverse right to the dubious block on the arête. Continue around right and up.

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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