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The Radiator

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 18

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

11

Seasonality

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Description

Easy access with clean orange rock on it's Western side, 3 routes on dirty rock on it's Southern face.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

From the end of Tanderra Road follow the tourist track as for Boronia Peak. After crossing Fyans Creek take the left branch for about 50mts. After a few steps and a cut up tree stump, head up hill, aross a management vehicle track after which cairns continue uphill until you skirt right around a grotty micro cliff to the main cliff. 10 minutes from the car park.

Descent notes

Rap anchor on boulder left of tree above Dirty Work

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

40mts up from south west arete. Crack to tree at 10mts, above the tree pass a prow on it's right side and finish up thin cracks.

FA: Nicola Woolford, Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran, 1993

Start 3mts rt of Old Bold And Cold below central crack line. Up wall and finish a for OBAC.

FA: Wayne Maher & Pia Larque, 2012

From the bottom left side of south facing grey wall just rt of the south west arete, follow twin cracks diagonally up across face to step rt at 2/3rds height. Follow next crack to move off left at top.

FA: Wayne Maher & Pia Larque., 2010

Start at the corners 6mts left of the SW arete below a small tree. Follow the main central recessed line to sketchy exit on terrible rock, dead shrubs and moss.

FA: Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher & Andrew Webb., 1990

Starts 6mts left of DW at the rt facing corner crack. Up the rounded crack and corner above through bulge and up thin corner to twin cracks formed by questionable micro pillar. At horizontal break, step rt to finish up Dirty Work.

Chains above this, take care lowering / rapping on 50m.

FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1989

The finger crack through the bulge to the ledge. Continue up Hot to finish.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1990

Starts at the steep left facing corner on the left side of the main face. Up to ledge, step left and up the line to the top.

FA: Wayne Maher, Derek Vissor & Ann Vissor, 1989

Awkward moves with exposure at the top. Starts 2mts left of Hot. Scramble up wide crack to ledge. Climbcrack on rt to an angled ledge, move rt to arete and finish up crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove., 1996

More awkwardness. This is the dirty corner 1mt left of GW.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1996

Could be harder than the grade suggests(not confirmed) Finger crack on arete 2.5mts left of Warm. Climb the face rt of the crack from a small alcove/shallow chimney, then move left to crack.

FA: Geoff Butcher., 1996

Starts at the left facing corner 20mts uphill from Cold etc. Corner then left into wide crack then face above.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Adam Penny., 1996

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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