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Fixed Gear: Fixed Carabiner Broken

Biner at top anchor is rusted, a little worn out, and no longer closing. Be weary when leading and cleaning 🧹

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Created 2 years ago

Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P

Hey all, the following routes are seldom, if ever, lead, and are currently being upgraded:

The Stoat Stepped Out

Socketh It Unto Me

The variant finishes of these.

TRing at night is still an option & is safe. Lead climbing is NOT recommended untill the upgrade is complete: the old carrots have been removed.

TRing during the day would interfere with the work being done, so please choose another route to TR from, if climbing during the daytime.

Thursday 11th April + Friday 12th April. Hope to have these upgrades done by Friday.

😎😚

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Created 15 days ago - Edited 13 days ago

Fixed Gear: CCM

Chubba Chips Mods has had the bolts removed, pending a rebolt & upgrade.

Perfectly fine for TRing, not for leading atm.

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Created 11 days ago

description

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

Route history

1993First free ascent: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth

Another Faustian Dilemma (Original)

13 Feb 2004First free ascent: Lee Cujes & Chris Gibson

Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)

Warnings

22 Aug 2021 Warning Fixed Gear: Fixed Carabiner Broken
10 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P
14 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: CCM

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.47817, 153.03434

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21
21 [20 - 21] - grAId
23 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
23 Kangaroo Point

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 55 from 43 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 13
Flash 3
Red point 10
Tick 16
Top rope 1
Pink point 2
Attempt 16

Comment keywords

face mantle contrived roof cruisy traverse easy interesting crank pumped hard crux cool fun nice enjoyable good fall tricky scary

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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