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Far North Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 45

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Far North 16 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -42.894472, 147.241725

description

An isolated 40 ft. tower to the north of the 'Northern Buttress'. A faint trail heads right from near the Chasm and runs around the 'Lost World' and uphill to the "Knob". There are 2 or 3 ways to the top. Descent by abseil.

First climbed Sept. '61.

© (eijkel)

access issues

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

inherited from Tasmania

ethic

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (kunyani@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

inherited from Mount Wellington
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Toy Town

2 War toy 21 Trad 10m
3 Childs play 20 Trad 10m
4 Nancy boys 21 Sport 10m
5 Boys toy 20 Trad 8m
6 Virgin Boys 18 Trad 11m

Johnston's Knob Area

8 Shelter from the Storm 17 Trad 20m
9 Pipedream 16 Trad 15m
10 Sergeant Slaughter

Great climb on a large block with ringbolts visible from Johnstone's Knob. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995.

21 Sport 12m, 4
11 Great Red Pointer

Great sport climbing on the Hobart side of Johnstones Knob involving both aretes and passing a knife blade to a ledge with rap anchor. Protected by 3 carrots.

19 Sport 12m, 3
12 Johnstone's Knob

The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961.

12 Trad 12m

DNA Land

14 Pancakes 12 Trad 8m
15 Simple Minds 8 Trad 8m
16 Rheumatism 17 Trad 10m
17 Gear Freak 16 Trad 10m
18 D.N.A. 16 Trad 10m
19 Adolescent Drifters 14 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
8 Simple Minds Trad 8m
12 Johnstone's Knob Trad 12m
Pancakes Trad 8m
14 Adolescent Drifters Trad 15m
16 D.N.A. Trad 10m
Gear Freak Trad 10m
Pipedream Trad 15m
17 Rheumatism Trad 10m
Shelter from the Storm Trad 20m
18 Virgin Boys Trad 11m
19 Great Red Pointer Sport 12m, 3
20 Boys toy Trad 8m
Childs play Trad 10m
21 Nancy boys Sport 10m
Sergeant Slaughter Sport 12m, 4
War toy Trad 10m
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