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Routes in Main Wall

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
26 Trubl

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

FA: M.Law & S.Butler, 1987

Trad 50m, 2
20 the Italian Route

Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.

Set: Michael Law

FA: Patrick Burr, 2012

Sport 20m
22 The Anty Climb

Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner at start (ants!), stay left on slab. 6 bolts.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2012

Sport 20m, 6
20 Slow Twitch

Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.

FA: M. Law, 1988

Sport 30m, 7
25 Slow Twitch Extension

Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top. The line of the cliff. tenuous and weird

FA: M. Law, 1988

Sport 40m
24 Slow Gulpa

Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.

A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.

FA: Paul Thomson, 26 May 2015

Sport 38m, 14
Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set: Mike Law

SportProject 35m
28 Gulpa’s Gin Palace

The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa. Mantel next to trees and step right back onto face and continue to the the ledge (runout to the anchor) bolt and FH

Set: Mike Law

FA: nathanual hebbard, 5 Apr 2021

Sport 35m
23 Sluj Gulpa

6m right of Slow Twitch corner.

  1. Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts.

  2. Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts.

  3. Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.

FA: Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore & Giles Bradbury, 1988

Sport 60m, 3, 14
16 The Access Climb

Start about 12m downhill from the massive corner (Slow Twitch) in a chimney/crack system. Up system till you can step left. Continue out sickle shaped crack to ledge and tree belay. Abseil off (dodgy tree) or continue to top via one of the many other routes.

Sport 25m
23 All Racked Up and Nowhere to Go

FA: J. Bell, G. & G. Williamson, 1996

Mixed trad 20m, 1
19 Monsterpiece Theatre

Start left of Big Bird at detached block.

  1. 30m (19) Up crack (optional large cam or sling) to ledge, move left to corner clip fixed hanger. Tough move off ledge to slab following fixed hangers to steep overlap. Tricky moves up through corner (longer sling on bolt). Bolt on top of lip and easily up to chains.

  2. 20m (19) Up line of fixed hangers. Belay directly above (2 fixed hangers on wall), or at rap station.

FA: Stephen Varney, 8 May 2017

Sport 50m, 2, 14
16 Route Fourteen

Up corner past 2 carrots to pod in corner, and up to rap station.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 20m, 2
10 M1 Iron Man

Start as for Access Route.

  1. Up to halfway ledge, right to belay beneath small roof.

  2. Up and around lip to easy moves above to tree belay.

  3. Either up dirty corner or climb tree to slab.

FA: G.Williamson & F.Duxfield Jun 96, 1996

Sport 45m, 3
21 Modern Masculinity

Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

  1. 15m (17) Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.

  2. ?m (21) Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.

  3. ?m (18) Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.

  4. 15m (19) Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and then up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for Big Bird.

Set: James, Rene Provis & Sam May

FA: James, Rene Provis & Sam May, 7 Feb 2015

Trad 80m, 4
20 Modern Masculinity Top Pitch

Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.

FA: James Bultitude, 22 Jun 2014

Sport 15m, 2
22 Offal Dredger

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

FA: A. Prehn, 1979

Trad 12m
20 Big Bird
1 17
2 20
3 19

Start at short crack with U-bolts about 80M R of the big corner, below obvious steep layback corner.

  1. 15m (17) Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner.

  2. 30m (20) Up steep layback corner, which fades out to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay.

  3. 20m (19) Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easy slab. Don't use the two fixed hangers on the left for the belay (that would leave you with an exposed top out), instead climb a few more meters to a single bolt-belay. (you can bridge off the tree to clip 2nd bolt)

Scramble up and left to lookout.

FA: Gareth Downey & Mikl Law, 2012

Sport 65m, 3
20 Comyns

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner.

  1. Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear).

  2. Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree.

  3. Up cracks to easy ground.

FA: Mike Law & G.Eggins, 1986

Trad 50m, 3

Showing all 19 routes.

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