Ascents of Semtex having Beta

Pretty wild move. Didn’t stick it, but I think I know what I need to do.

Started up this thinking it was nitro having not tried these climbs before, made it through the first three bolts no worries but figured after the dyno that it was not the right climb so bailed off the fourth bolt.

I thought I'd try something really hard. I never stuck the dyno down low, but I did throw to the right height, so it feels feasible. The real problem is the crux. Very bouldery, never really made any progess on it.

Woohoo! Hardest route outside of Coolum. I got some beta to try different kneepads, so did just that and it made all the difference for that shitty knee scum at the crux. Climbed the route direct as Lee did, and glad I did. Just like a lot of the harder routes at Ninderry, they can be a bit contrived so no classic from me. Probably low end 29, but how would I know considering its my first 29 face climb? (9)

Put the draws on and had two good shots. Highpoint is getting to the crux and putting in knee scum and going for the first of the 3 move crux. Getting stronger at pulling the crux, and can do it most times I try it now. One of those routes that could take another 2 shots, or 20, just depends if that bloody knee scum keeps still and doesn't always pop!

First shot in a while! Not sure what to make of this shot. I can do up to the crux no problem at all (24 to here??) and can do the crux, but not every time. I tried the crux about 10 times and only did the moves about 4 of those times. It is very tempting to move right a move onto the jugs on HW, but it is a cool sequence of bouldering doing it direct and great training so I should stick at it!

Back on it. Figured out crux using a completely different sequence than last time. Kneescum above your head sort of move. It got too hot for a second shot.

Worked out crux. YAH

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which I solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds way out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. [6]

Waterfall when we arrived. Sacrificed a block of chalk and JJ's facecloth trying to dry it. Luckily the wind picked up.

Finally figured out what to do on the crux. It's not very straightforward.

Did not work out the crux, and would take a few more shots to gain the power to get through it. Awesome moves on solid rock, good project for the future.

End of day. Skin gone by this stage. No hope.

Learned a bit more on the crux. I don't think you're going to be able to avoid pulling like a demon. It's gunna be haaaard!

New rig. One section I can't do, even off the rope. Yay!